That's not a bad idea actually, but I think it's a bit more unprotected from scratches, but the scratches are less noticeable. Scratched black anodizing, on so-so quality anodizing shows the bare metal in the scratch.
Great thing about raw lights is when they get dull or scratched, you just polish them again. I just refreshed my raw FW1a this week… Practically new again :laughing: :+1:
sunny, was there any word on the price of the Flashlight itself? i need to know if i’m considering this one or not… with the kr1 being a nice $55, this one is going to depend on price for me.
unfortunately seems like $98 USD is the new magical number for FireFlies …
$98 is too high for me, I was interested but looks like the throw is about the same as kr1 which I already have. I do love the new colors though, onboard USB charging is also nice.
Yea I prefer no on board charging just bc I never end up using it and I feel it’s something to go wrong. I know Tom e is having a bad standby drain issue with a new Astrolux that seems to derive from faulty onboard charging circuitry. I’m sure FireFlies using upgraded parts, but still. Paying extra for it… I’d rather save money on the light and charge my own batteries
You kind of need on board charging with how bad these threads are. I worry about stripping the head threads every time I change a battery on my nov-mu and the tail threads are unannodized which makes them grind.
Damn, that scares me. I really have my mind set on buying the e12r, but if that’s the case I don’t want to deal with it. I’ll just go with the rot66 like I had originally wanted. I know it’s pretty different but in some ways it’s the same too. And I like the 3x 18650 battery setup a lot, it’s a nice size for me. Not as nice as (1) 21700, but it is what it is. I’ll just have to buy a k9.3 too lol
I’d say go for the E12R if you have a usb-c charger around. My Nov-mu maintains quite a high brightness relative to even my D18 with its efficient buck driver.
I just keep a 40T permanently in it and it’s really convenient not having to remove the battery to charge it. All you have to do is flip a flat and insert a cable.
The threads on most of these lights are ACME or square cut. You would have to change batteries 1000x of times to wear out the threads.The LEDs or the batteries themselves would wear out before the threads would.
Also with USB charging, you are charging the same battery over and over. Is this something you should be doing?
The tail threads are square cut, thick and unannodized. The head threads are very thin and almost triangular in shape. The head threads are anodized but the annodization on my Nov-mu was wearing out the second time I replaced the battery since the light kept on flickering as I was putting the tube on. I’d rather buy a new battery in a year than break my light accidentally.