KC1 keychain light is available now

I use mine for many of the things scientist linked to as well as charging the lume on my watch and fishing lures. Also it cures special adhesives too.

Cool! I didn’t know one of these was available. No sign of it earlier today when I ordered a D4v2 in a deep red. I’ll shoot Hank an email and find out how to get one. One thing I really like about the D4v2’s is you can pop the optic out and put the lens back in and it doesn’t flop around. With the FW’s, the lens seems to rely on the optic/reflector to stay in place. Geez….the collection is getting a little out of hand……

Good to know about being able to pull out reflector and lense still stays in place. I assume to make a “mule” of sorts? I’m going to try this .Also, maybe an appropriate sized oring would help in case of fw3a, or a light where lense was moving?

Ordered my second k1 yesterday! Only took about a week with my first K1 to start assessing my other throwers and which ones were going to get cut. Pained me to sell my convoy L21a CULPM1, but ordered the k1 with CULPM1. If this K1 W2.2 feels like it’s worth $50 more then the convoy, then up next on the chopping block will be the ft03s…

Can Anyone share a picture of the “dark gray (close to black)” colored K1? Is this the same dark gray Hank still has on the website, that looks brown in some pictures? Or has that color changed since the K1 was released? I know Hank slightly alters the colors sometimes (I.e. the new green d4sv2 vs. the pictures on the website of the green d4sv2).

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Good to know about being able to pull out reflector and lense still stays in place. I assume to make a “mule” of sorts? I’m going to try this .Also, maybe an appropriate sized oring would help in case of fw3a, or a light where lense was moving?
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Yes - I’m doing this with the D4v2 in 3500k - having a wide soft flood is excellent for an indoors / caravan lamp/bedside light. Will try the o-ring trick but I’m thinking there’s nothing to stop the o-ring from falling back to the led once the reflector is removed. An inner sleeve may work - although now I have a few Emisar/Noctigons, I’ll just use these if I want a complete flood. UV mule incoming.

Any idea when the copper d4v2 will be back in stock?

Be careful with this! I believe there’s nothing holding down the mcpcb firmly to the shelf except the stickiness of thermal paste. No additional screws as far as I know so the mcpcb might lose the direct thermal path at some point which could be disastrous.

Yea that is so true. If it’s not screws down that may be a really bad idea

Do the two phillips heads screws in the center not hold it in place?

Yes, if there’s screws they most likely hold it down

Silly me, I forgot the D4 had them. Yeah I just took a look at mine and it looks like they do keep the mcpcb securely in place

Anyone else get a D4S recently with an uneven tailcap? Mine wobbles when put tail-cap down (head-up). First world problems :blush:

Interesting, I got one last week. I will have to check now. Did you get magnetic tail? Just curious.

Yeah magnetic. Also got one without magnet and was sent a D4SV1, which is a much darker shade but perfectly flat and can be set down with a satisfying thunk. I assume magnetic power is the same (uneven to flat surface vs flat to flat) so not a big deal but it’s the little things that affect how a product feels :blush:

Also, I think I prefer the old style without the rounded edges. Or maybe I just don’t like change :laughing:

That’s interesting, I was sent an old D4S cap with mine as the spare tail cap without magnet. The anodising doesn’t match as well as the model, guess old parts are being palmed off which is a bit of a cheek.

Edited to add - Just tested my D4SV2 in green, grey and cyan, all three received since February 2021 and all three have a slight wobble tail standing an a flat plate of glass, all three tail caps are not flat.

I’m a little confused about the difference between the various constant current drivers. Most discussion seems to indicate there are only two versions—5A and 7.5A—and that both come straight from the KR4, but D4V2s with this driver have a bunch of components on the back that don’t appear in any photos I can find of the KR4 itself. Is the D4V2 version different from the KR4 version, is this a 5A and 7.5A driver, or what?

Next question: Has anyone disassembled and compared the 5A and 7.5A driver? Is it just a resistor difference or what?

Sad times :frowning:

I’d also be interested. I don’t think anyone’s compared them. I notice on my recent D4SV2 W2 that the MCPCB is now white which might indicate that it also uses one of the regulated drivers.

All three of my D4SV2s (W2 / XP-L HI / SST20) have the same white driver board.

Regarding the KR4 driver and the KR4 driver fitted as standard to the cyan D4V2, I own both of these models and didn’t make any request regarding the drivers, mine match the image shown by Bob_McBob. As I did not make any special request regarding the drivers I assume both are the standard 5A and the components fitted to the spring side of the D4V2 version are due to the smaller PCB diameter.

That image is mine btw, from my reddit account.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/kfpdjn/new_d4v2_with_unknown_driver/

Did i read awhile back that you bought all three of your D4s’ in the last couple months? I only ask because my two d4s’ i bought last month also have the white driver, but the D4s i bought July 2020 had a red driver. I don’t know if that matters, but i did notice it when my two new ones arrived (W2 and sst20 4000k).

The new tailcap without a lanyard hole is just magical, makes so much of a difference in the hand, amazing.