FireflyLite E12R 12*emitters 15000LM 1x21700 Flashlight

Either something is wrong with your light or you are doing something wrong. I have half a dozen D4 and over a dozen E07. The E12R is surely brighter than the E07 and much brighter than the D4. Did you try wiping all the contacts with isopropyl alcohol? If not, give it a try.

Does the E12R include the 22430 tube and battery like in the review on 1lumen.com?

I believe not. I think gchart got the tube and battery because it was a review sample. The tube doesn’t look quite complete yet :frowning: It looks like there’s going to be a screw on clip but we’ve heard no word of it

I took measurements and posted here

How do your E12Rs’ MCPCBs look? I received my the NOV-MU and the E12R today. My NOV-MU is working perfectly but my E12R’s 219bs aren’t turning on. The battery should have a good connection because power is working since the aux lights turn on, and I’m pretty sure my switch is working because the aux lights are turning off when I press the switch. I don’t see any flashes of the main LEDs I connect the battery tube like I do with my NOV.

I opened up the head to take a look inside and do some cleaning since the optics looked like they had some dirt in them.

These big solder joints look pretty bad so I’m thinking maybe one of them is a cold joint.
All this dust and debris was from the light itself since I took these photos right after opening the head up. My nov-mu’s mcpcb is really clean but I’m disappointed with how dirty my E12R’s mcpcb looks.

Edit: light is working in turbo but regular modes do not work. I believe I will receive a replacement head.

I had the problem of a not connected solder joint once in a Fireflies E07. Try to press the solder joints down with your finger and see if the main lights turn on. That white cable looks suspicious. I hope you have a soldering iron or this will be difficult to fix.

With errors like this I am really wondering about Fireflies’ QC which should discover such things.

I just did that as well as the usual troubleshooting steps of cleaning the threads as well as a reset (I think it has been reset since I did the same procedure of resetting which worked with the Nov-Mu and I can no longer change the aux lights which seems to indicate it’s in simple mode). Still no sign of the revered 219bs turning on.

On a side note, I am not impressed with the threads fireflies chose. The anodized head ones are super thin and make me worry about cross threading it every time I change the battery. My D4V2 feels the same way but at least it has anodized tail threads and changing the battery by the tail side on that is a very smooth feeling process. Fireflies chose unannodized tail threads and they GRIND, even with lube.
My Nov-Mu’s anodized threads at the head are already wearing away. The light was already blinking rapidly as connection was completed and lost from the anodizing wearing off at the threads, the second time I ever inserted a battery into the light!

The question for FF, but not E12R )

How many х7135 is in ROT66 ii? (SST20/4000)
The current in 7th level is about 5,6А (That’s more than 8x7135), but in Anduril config file for ROT66 ii is 7th level fully regulated

Short tubes for E12R are up for sale at ff-light.com

Does anyone know?

*I sent my copper E07 back to Jacky in the US address for fixing because 3 things were broken and wrong and I am still being ghosted by him. I repeatedly messaged and emailed FF and Jacky, and always got ghosted. 2 years at this point and over $100 down the toilet. DON'T BUY FIREFLIES OR ANY OF THEIR NEW BRAND THEY ARE A BAD COMPANY. Do not do business with them. Buy from better people and companies.

Ordered my first e12 r and two others from FireFlies, a rot66 and a new e07x. Was worried at first , but I got a shipment notification on all thre from Oliver at FireFlies yesterday. Can’t wait for them!

My 1st E12R had a great UI set up similar to the K9.3 starting in Advanced and having double tap for Turbo and a sweet button feel, my 2nd E12R has the horrendous Simple Anduril II UI and a woeful button feel.

Incidentally the LH351D 5700K makes a lot more power than my XPL-HI 5000K version, but the XPL-HI has a far nicer and rosier tint.

I heard FF got the highest flux bin for the LH351D 5700k 80CRI. I have always been curious how this performs. I’m surprised you say the 5000k is nicer than 5700k. I thought you prefer 5700k. Did you take lumen measurements for the two?

Yeah, the XPL-HI looks rosy and the 5700K looks green next to each other.

The 5700K is unbelievably powerful though. Turbo is tricky as the button is a little unresponsive, feels like a Lumintop switch lol

Are you going to do videos on them? Would be curious to see your output numbers.

Yeah, review is half done. Comparison with 4500k 219B, 4000 SST20, 5000K LH351D.

Can’t wait to see it. Something isn’t making sense here though. I would’ve expected the high cri LH351D to be close in output or maybe even less than the XPL HI. Maybe there’s something wrong with your XPL HI one?

If you look at datasheet the highest few bins of LH351D 5700K 80CRI are slightly higher in output than XP-L HI V3 5000K 70CRI. They are close for sure and maybe the slightly lower forward voltage of Samsung helps seal the deal?

Oh yh I forgot it was 80 and not 90 cri. Also didn’t realise it had lower vf. I always thought it was the same for some reason. I guess I’ll just wait for the video to see what the actual difference is.