KC1 keychain light is available now

Interesting, I got one last week. I will have to check now. Did you get magnetic tail? Just curious.

Yeah magnetic. Also got one without magnet and was sent a D4SV1, which is a much darker shade but perfectly flat and can be set down with a satisfying thunk. I assume magnetic power is the same (uneven to flat surface vs flat to flat) so not a big deal but it’s the little things that affect how a product feels :blush:

Also, I think I prefer the old style without the rounded edges. Or maybe I just don’t like change :laughing:

That’s interesting, I was sent an old D4S cap with mine as the spare tail cap without magnet. The anodising doesn’t match as well as the model, guess old parts are being palmed off which is a bit of a cheek.

Edited to add - Just tested my D4SV2 in green, grey and cyan, all three received since February 2021 and all three have a slight wobble tail standing an a flat plate of glass, all three tail caps are not flat.

I’m a little confused about the difference between the various constant current drivers. Most discussion seems to indicate there are only two versions—5A and 7.5A—and that both come straight from the KR4, but D4V2s with this driver have a bunch of components on the back that don’t appear in any photos I can find of the KR4 itself. Is the D4V2 version different from the KR4 version, is this a 5A and 7.5A driver, or what?

Next question: Has anyone disassembled and compared the 5A and 7.5A driver? Is it just a resistor difference or what?

Sad times :frowning:

I’d also be interested. I don’t think anyone’s compared them. I notice on my recent D4SV2 W2 that the MCPCB is now white which might indicate that it also uses one of the regulated drivers.

All three of my D4SV2s (W2 / XP-L HI / SST20) have the same white driver board.

Regarding the KR4 driver and the KR4 driver fitted as standard to the cyan D4V2, I own both of these models and didn’t make any request regarding the drivers, mine match the image shown by Bob_McBob. As I did not make any special request regarding the drivers I assume both are the standard 5A and the components fitted to the spring side of the D4V2 version are due to the smaller PCB diameter.

That image is mine btw, from my reddit account.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/kfpdjn/new_d4v2_with_unknown_driver/

Did i read awhile back that you bought all three of your D4s’ in the last couple months? I only ask because my two d4s’ i bought last month also have the white driver, but the D4s i bought July 2020 had a red driver. I don’t know if that matters, but i did notice it when my two new ones arrived (W2 and sst20 4000k).

The new tailcap without a lanyard hole is just magical, makes so much of a difference in the hand, amazing.

I hadn’t considered the different diameter, and it makes sense components would have to be relocated to fit. So at the very least there are separate D4V2 and KR4 versions of the driver, which can be customized in either 5A or 7.5A. What I’d really like to know is whether it’s just something like a resistor change I can play around with later. I can’t find any photos of the business side of this driver.

That is correct, all ordered and received in the last two months, interesting.
One observation which differs from a typical KR4, all three have stable moonlight mode which is set to ramp level 1 by default whereas the KR4 is set at 3.

Only applicable to the aluminium D4V2 at the moment.

yes, i had definitely noticed that! i actually started a small thread about the low modes a few months back, in which TK responded to me. She said it had to do with the kr4 driver having a courser low ramp mode due to the amount of power channels, which at the time i did not understand. Emisar / Anduril - stepped low mode “jump” - #6 by ToyKeeper

Hank - or anyone - do we have any specifications on the UV mules? And are there any special considerations (other than eye safety) to take into account when using the light? Or do or the normal drivers/thermal step down look after the UV led’s as normal?

btw, my sister in law just bought a house in some rocky granite country and we went looking for scorpions with the i5UV olight - wow, LOTS of scorpions!! Most around the 40 - 50mm size (black rock scorpions I think) and they just look like glowing toys under the UV. Our Australian species are generally small and not dangerous to humans although they evidently can give a painful sting.

There should be normal temperature stepdowns with anduril (If he’s even putting anduril in the Uv mules)

UV LEDs need a high voltage so they won’t be driven too hard with direct drive.

You should wear polycarbonate glasses (almost any pair of plastic safety glasses will do, just double check to see that it blocks the Uv)

My normal prescription glasses are blue blockers / transitions - if I point the UV lights at them, very little UV goes through and the lenses will also go dark. I can’t find a transmission spectrum graph for them, but I’m hoping they’re ok for the odd bit of reflection that I might get.

Are the moon levels the same at those ramp levels or how do they compare? (5A CC (LVL3) vs 1+FET (LVL1))

I’m looking for a new house light and the FET+1 is low, but not low enough.

Also, does anyone know if these CC drivers are considered Buck or use some other kind of current regulation?

If I remember correctly the moon and both are similar once you set the KR4 to level one. Kr4 level 3 is high, But easy enough to set to level 1 ramp. I’m pretty sure the regulation is linear Constant current. No buck or boost.

So I don’t have to bother hank- does anyone know if any of the Nichia emitters offered are able to go into the D4SV2? I assume the E 21a’s can’t go in because the driver is not regulated? Maybe Hank has 219’s left? Can 219- go into D4sV2 ?

I also wanted to have Nichia 219C in my D4V2, have contacted Hank and he replied only 219C in 5000K available in a few. I am loking for the 4000K, I have not decided whether I will go with the Nichia 219C 5000K or the SST20 4000K.

I have 219C 4000k in a KR4, you should be aware that the ones Hank got have a donut hole/dark spot in the center of the beam with the standard optic. Not sure if it would be the same in D4Sv2, but I had to swap my KR4 to the frosted optic to fix the problem. I don’t mind that at all for the KR4 but I wouldn’t want to use a floody optic in D4Sv2, kind of defeats the purpose.