Nothing because I do not know what I am doing HELP
thx
Bad parasitic drain. Youāll have power flowing through the resistors that are left. Youāre just looking to destroy that current path.
Why do it the hard way? Rather than desoldering anything, why not just take a razor or Xacto blade and cut the bridge between LED and resistor?
Also very possible. Iām a bit more deft with a soldering iron. Iām liable to draw blood with a razor blade!
Nah. If itās just the trace, itās an easy cut. If thereās a huge blob of solder bridging the components right over it, it takes a bit more effort but still pretty easy. Way easier than risking cooking a switch by hitting it with a soldering iron.
With my Tool i did remove the LEDs next to the switch by applying some brute force with a small screwdriver
Tryed swapping emitter on Zebralight SC5w II but one of inductors peeled off. Thx to Loneocean i found exact one and this night surgery was succesfull.
New emitter is dedommed 351D 5000K and beam improved drastically (stock was XPL2)
Good save on the ZL! Thatās got to be one of the most haphazard driver layouts Iāve ever seen.
Thx gchart!
Although ZL driver layout is a modder nightmare itās still a joy working on it.
Hello, I finally made the first modification to my BLF Q8.
Simple thing, I just went around the springs. I thought it was going to improve 10 or 15% but I didnāt notice any difference.
Is it the batteries? I use 3000 mah Sofirn batteries but I donāt know what the discharge is. Iām hoping to get Samsung 20A Q30 batteries. I imagine the result will be visible.
Could someone tell me the next simple change I could make?
Been modding some magnetic ring lights in recent weeks. None of these are pocket rockets compared to modern lights but they are fun to mod:
Build quality of the SRT-3 feels excellent. It feels great in the hand and works well with a cigar grip. Feels higher quality than the Sunwayman or aluminum Jetbeam. Downside is its huge. Even though it uses a 16340 it is actually bigger than a number of 18650 lights I own.
From what I can recall, replacing the screws with brass (or maybe brass-coated? I can't recall for sure) screws shows some improvement. I'm referring to the screws that attach the tail-spring board.
Because of how Clayson soldered the bypasses to the contact area of the pcb, brass screws likely wonāt provide a measurable improvement. I would still recommend them however in conjunction with a slight adjustment of your mod.
Iād recommend moving your solder point slightly towards the center by scraping off some of the masking and allowing the pcb to sit flush with the body tube again. Contact resistance is now likely your largest ohmic contributor at this point. Other things to improve that would be adding Ag/Au plated contact pads to the springs. Anything over 50% IACS and flat should be better/more stable in the long run vs a solder blob, especially if there is lingering flux residue on the contact points. Iāll often take a fine flat file and smooth out solder in cases that I donāt add an additional interface material.
The biggest easy improvement I think you could get in terms of output would be using a 25S/H26 cell.
I donāt know what emitters you have in your Q8 (XPL?), but a swap to something low Vf like XPL2, SST40, Luxeon V, XHP50.2 3V could really bump the current up.
Overall though, I think itās important to realize that the visual differences between 4000 and 5000 lumens is so small, that itās hard to tell except in back to back comparisons.
I was making a convoy s2+ triple with some SST-20-DR's with Mtn triple mcpcb soldered to one of kiribaru's copper spacer and pill combos. After relflow, I was soldering the leads from the Convoy 5A driver, (this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32989372464.html) and accidentally touched one of the SST-20 domes with my iron apparently because 2/3 of it was hazy. It was the top center one in the picture below.
Well, when I touched the dome with an alcohol covered q-tip just to see if it would "buff out" somehow, the dome came right off cleanly. This is unlike what I've heard happens with hot dedoming white sst-20's, which need to be sliced instead of de-domed. I tested with multimeter and it lit up just like the two still left with domes intact, so I heated up the pill again slightly, not enough to flow solder, and then the other two domes just came off easily with tweezers.
Anyway, I tested all the LEDs with the multimeter again, finished building the pill, cleaned everything etc, and the de-domed red sst-20's worked fine. I don't have a domed version to compare to in terms of beam or increased throw/decreased lumens. It's still very floody with carclo narrow spot optics as a small triple. But, FYI, I found out by accident that red SST-20's can be completely de-domed with heat apparently.
I had to remove tiny bits of dome around the sides of the emitter surface with tweezers, toothpicks and compressed air after I took this picture being careful not go near the bond wires:
But, it was relatively simple once I realized my accident turned out to be non-fatal to the leds and potentially (?) increased throw a little. I mean, it has to since the surface of the led is smaller, right? I compared to a couple photo red xp-e2 lights I built and the red color was exactly the same to the eye, so I don't think it messed with that.
Also, at the tail on a rested but fully charged cell with that convoy driver, I got around 7.5A draw, so definitely pushing it to the limit on turbo.
I have one click set at 1%, second mode around 1.5 A, and third mode is full out 7.5, but I won't push it on third mode often because I know that's a lot of amps for red leds in a small light, and it's kind of overkill.
Nice thing about that driver is you can ramp it up to whatever you want, so I'll probably make the third and highest level something like 5A eventually or 60-70% of max because 7.5A is probably passed the point of diminishing returns. Also, I tried the hot de-dome a white sst-20 shortly after for a t20 zoomie, and the dome wouldn't budge at all like the red ones did so easily. So, I sliced it with a razor lubed with silicone and a washer:
Also good to know, the Sofirn 19mm mcpcb fits the T20 pill almost perfectly so you don't have to use a 16mm or sand down a 20mm.
Pill after soldering in driver and coloring everything black with sharpie as best I could for now, still purple where sharpie hadn't dried yet. Might go back and do matte thermal paint because the beam still has small artifacts or sand the surface of the led with 5000 grit. Any suggestions on perfecting an aspheric beam would be appreciated:
Repaired my broken modded DQQ Tiny III 18650.
I had converted it to a 3 amp triple emitter light 4 or 5 years ago. But then a couple years ago I decided to replace the driver I had in it with one with Emisar D4 ramping IOS firmware from Mountain Electronics.
Unfortunately, the mod failed to work properly. Even when the light was off, the LEDs stayed lit at a very low level. I finally gave up and put the mod aside for the last couple years.
Last night I took another stab at it. Remembered that the symptom I was experiencing of the light not quite turning off could be that the 7135 chip was bad. I swapped in a new one and now it works fine.
Nice light. A true pocket rocket with enormous punch on turbo and smaller than an FW3A. Itās so tiny! Itās just a bit bigger than a Sunwayman V11R (though it is heavier with battery installed due to heavier battery and steel bezel). With the new driver I no longer have to worry about the light overheating and desoldering the leadwires from the star.
Back when I started this mod, the best firmware I could get on a driver was RampingIOS. But things have moved on. Now I prefer Anduril. Next mod might be to disassemble it and reflash the star.
Some classic modding is happening in this thread, even a T20 mod, havenāt seen that one modded for years!
Today I modded my GT Nano with a new led. In fact I ruined what the Nano is famous for: the throw went down from 21 kcd to 7 kcd after the mod. Still this is how I want my Nano to be. I ordered a 10440 tube for the Nano (was shipped out today :party: ), so that will complete the mod.
I have plenty cool lights with amazing throw that have the Osram KW CSLNM1-TG, so although the Nano does amaze, I have always wanted a throwy AAA size light with a great tint. So the led was swapped with a sliced 4000K SST-20 ( it had supposedly a JA3 tint bin before the slicing).
This was not straightforward because the SST-20 is 3535 size while the stock led is 3030 size. I decided on a new MCPCB, a 10mm DTP copper board that I bought long ago from vestureofbloodās shop. The edge needed trimming slightly to 9.5mm diameter with the disc-sander to fit in the slot in the shelf in the flashlight head. The board is a bit thicker than stock but I needed that extra height because the reflector hole was reamed and the reflector became a tiny bit shorter because of that.
As said I reamed the reflector to fit a 3535 center piece for 6.5mm hole. The reaming was not strictly needed because the stock reflector did fit a ābutterflyā type of 3535 center piece but it had a bit of wiggle room so the led would not be really centered and I hate that. So I went for the gamble of reaming and hoping the 6.5mm center piece would fit before too much of the reflector was removed and it became too short with the led out of focus. I was lucky, the reflector was kept long enough and the focusing of the led appeared perfect, the hotspot is as crisp as it gets
The outer edge of the center piece was trimmed a bit to make room for the solder blobs of the led wires.
Although everything was rather tiny, I did not destroy any crucial parts luckily and the mod was succesfully finished. The light is still pleasantly throwy, although it has not the same wow-factor of the stock light, and the tint turned out as nice as I hoped: the CCT is around 3750K, at medium setting CRI is 98, with 0.0005 duv it is right on the BBL, at turbo the CRI is still 95, with duv ā0.0011.
Now wait for the 10440 tube to finish it, not only will it make the light look much better, the 10440 battery will get a bit more lumens out of the SST20 too, the 220 lumen it does now corresponds to about 1A, the 10440 battery will definitely do better than that.
Dang, that is nasty looking! Glad that it was a Sharpie and not an over cooked MCPCB.
And interesting how easy it is to de-dome a red SST-20.
Yeah, Neutralfan, the pic looks a lot worse than real life since it's un-dried black sharpie ink right after I tried to color the board black. I probably didn't get it right since there are still wrings and weird tint shifts in the beam possibly from reflections.
@Djozz, my t20 mod isn't exactly perfect so far. Any suggestions are appreciated, here's the problem:
I first had an XPL-HI in there, and there was some weird tint shift across zoom and flood. Fully zoomed in the center of the LED die was white hot, while the outside of the spot-beam had the weird cree tint shift and warmer tint. Then I tried 90 CRI 4000k XP-G3 in there (not sliced) and the classic cree green/weird tint shift in full zoom mode came out again with a weird, much cooler tint center. I tried this led because of some of your old posts from 5 years ago:
I think that part of the dislike for aspheric zoomies is caused by bad design of the smaller ones, both in build quality and optical lay-out. Optically one of the best ones is the sk68, but the design is extremely plump. Same for the dreaded G700-type lights, lots and lots of useless aluminium. Even the quality zoomies suffer from too much material where it is not needed, i.e. the Brinyte B158. I like the expensive Sunwayman T25C for its ok optical quality without being overly bulky (can stilā¦
I made a S2+ triple today with these leds to see how the tint is in a TIR optic. and it is again different but closer to the reflector optic tint; the close to rosy tint with little yellow from the i3 aspheric lens zoomie was not achieved. Not a bad tint though. Against my principles hereās a white wall shot that compares some lights (I do not show whitewall tint comparisons usually because they do not represent the reality very well, and people still will use the picture to discuss tint). lefā¦
Now, with the sliced SST-20 in there, I have a weird beam that my phone camera can't really capture. Zoomed in, it looks like there is a white hot center beam, a small circle around the center where no light is present, and then some weird off-colored corona and rings around the led-shaped center. The center of the beam, which I crudely outlined in the photo below, is a perfect shaped of the led surface, like in most zoomies, but the tint is much colder than it should be, with rings all around it. Here are some pictures, but like I said, the camera does not at all capture what the eye sees in real life:
Any clue how to correct this, anyone? I don't know if it's an issue of stray reflections inside the lens from MCPCB and pill etc. I believe the led board is at the correct height and focus, since it's sitting on the same shelf as the original led in the same spot, only with a 3mm wider board. Should covering the led and painting everything else with matte black paint solve it? Maybe I have a bad T20 lens since three different leds gave me similar bad results?
Here's another where I drew a line indicting the space with not light at all, again the center is shaped like the emitter, which the picture does not show at all. I tried different modes and all sorts of things but nothing would capture the real beam as seen in person.
Basically, my goal is a T20 with a warm tint that doesn't have a white hot center or crazy rings around it. I prefer 3535 footprint since I soldered that mcpcb in, but I could easily get it out if there's better emitter for zoomies. CRI doesn't really matter as long as the tint is on the warmer side, 4k or a little less. I know there are much better hosts or completed lights out there for $30, but I have trouble getting rid of old hosts and prefer to mod them even though getting a convoy z1 or something like that is probably a better idea. Anyway, thanks for any suggestions.
Simple mod by BLF standards. Added GITD accents to an IF25A. Need to add more though, fades pretty quickly, but doesnāt go completely dim. Nice with night adapted vision.
Swapped a 2700k LH351D into a cheap zoomie my parents have because my mom doesnāt like cool āblueā tints. I did it more to play around with my new iron than anything. The light is fed off 3 aaas but I changed one of the aaas for a 10440 so the light is running 6v+ instead of the usual 4v Dunno what the driver is because itās soldered to the pill. These aaas probably canāt provide enough current and dip far below 6v when the current is requested