KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread

Wellp, I was going to submit a P4000 review in Kaidomain's site, but it complained “Warning: Review Text must be between 25 and 1000 characters!”. It also complained about name too long (max 25 characters), LMAO. My review is well above 3K characters long LoL, so here it goes:

With a sense resistor stack consisting of 50mΩ plus 1Ω sense resistors in parallel (47.619mΩ combined) and driving currents of 4 and 5A in high and turbo modes, by Ohm's Law (V = I × R) and electric power (P = V × I = I² × R) formulas it is easy to infer the voltage and power drops across the sense resistor stack: 190.476mV / 761.9mW at 4A and 238.095mV and 1190.5mW at 5A. These are HUGE figures, causing a lot of wasted heat and a massive drop in efficiency.

When a typical AC led driver which outputs many tens of volts uses a ≈0.2V sense voltage, the impact in overall efficiency is no more than very small. When a driver meant to output a little above 3V uses ≈0.2V sense voltage, the relative impact is huge with ≈6% output power loss (!) just in the sense resistor. This is gross and inadequate in a driver like this. Lazy job from the driver designers.

Still, a driver which does its job. For 2 cells in series can be adequate.

Here it ends the text I submitted in the Kaidomain's page (limited to 1000 characters). I also add the following:

Edit.- Of course, by Ohm's Law the sense voltage gets lower in lower modes (V = I × R), and so the negative impact of it is proportionally lower in these modes. But still, lazy job tu use such a coarse sense resistor stage. Good drivers employ just ≈50mV (≈0.05V) maximum (which can still be improved by using multiple sense resistors, namely as the current output raises).

I do not mean to say that the driver cannot work, but the absurdly high sense voltage (even if not much in practice) unnecessarily restricts regulation time when powered by single cell voltage, and the increased heat dissipation on top of a (undesired by power users) “smart thermal management function” means the stuff is ultra-likely to taper down the current output rather quickly in high modes.
Single cell overdischarge cut-off, at 3V, is high. Considering that in a flashlight the driver does not see actual cell voltage, but after it goes through springs and switch losses, actual cell cut-off happens above 3V at the cell terminals; also, considering that most li-ion cell manufacturers specify 2.5V as cut-off voltage in their cell datasheets (and down to 2V in a few exceptional cases), there's no good reason for a 3V cut-off. And yes, I know that what happens at 3V is the stuff starts flashing the led (low voltage warning), with actual, real cut-off happening at 2.7V. But this is senseless, stupid if you ask me. Just imagine for a moment that I am using the flashlight for a walk or jogging: do you think I'd be happy if the flashlight starts flashing the led while I am running at night? Certainly NOT. I'd very much prefer the flashlight low power blinking just a few times to signal the low voltage warning, and then dropping to the lowest available mode. In the lowest available mode, the flashlight can still serve me while it discharges the battery down to let's say 2.5V or even 2V (so, effective cut-off at 2.5V or 2V). That can be a useful lifesaver while I am walking or running at night; blinkies… not so much.
So, in my opinion the low voltage warning can be set at 2.8V or 3V, with a few blinks to signal the warning, then dropping to the lowest mode and continuing the discharge down to 2.5V or 2V. At the lowest mode (just 5mA output in this driver), the driver could still provide a good deal of light time while it hits 2.5V or 2V. In any case, a standard white led (blue pumped phosphor converted led) has a minimum Vf of 2.5V, and this means that while powering a standard white led the led poses a hard cut-off limit: 2.5V. Red or other types of leds have a lower Vf, but this is another story.


All in all, my personal evaluation for this driver is 3/5. Which isn't bad, but considering how fearful these fellows are of anything below 5/5 or even 4/5, we'll see if this (the above part I mean) gets published in Kaidomain's site.

Thu, 03/04/2021 - 14:56

All that aside and since you’ve obviously tested it, ( I am not disputing your findings btw, it’s just over my comprehension and unlikely to have much real world effect on my usage) - how accurate are the claimed amps (Moon (5mA) > Lo (200mA) > Med (1500mA) > Hi (4000mA) Double Pressed: Turbo (5000mA)? Particularly the Hi 4000mA & Turbo 5000mA (which is what it will be on more than anything else) since I’ll be using it for an Osram KW CSLPM1.TG and importantly does it work as effectively with 1 cell as it does 2 cells? if you could give some findings on those I’d appreciate it very much since I can’t measure it. Thank you Barkuti :+1:

Seems like in a Fenix bc25r fairly smooth slicing of SST-20 just adds some artifacts to the hotspot while size stays the same and reduces Lux output from 1000Lx to 600Lx@1m.

Just received after second order this time from AliExpress KD store the K1 host. It is very nice looking host with deep SMO reflector. The light is little longer. I didn’t like the o-ring under SS front bezel. It is too thick. At bottom side of bezel there is little channel which need to hold and press oring to the glass. But included oring is too thick for that.





Hi everyone, has anyone tried this so far?
BanL, may I know does it live up to 6000-7000 OTF lumens? What is the current drain at tail?
JKK90 LUMINUS SBT-90.2 LED 7000 LUMENS WHITE 6500K 2-GROUPS MODE LED FLASHLIGHT ( 2X26650 )

Thank you.

Sbt90 lights only really emit around 6000 or less. The K75 has usually been measured to be less than 6000 by most reviewers. Anything higher is not true imo.

Yes, If this JKK90 produces somewhere around 5000 to 6000 it should be considered as great enough.
But I have some doubts about it since there is no review about this light, and high current (~20A) buck driver for SBT90.2 is rare to none currently for none branded lights, or did I miss anything?

I still got one package from Kaidomain missing from last year its been almost a year since i made that order so i guess its gone. Not there fault its an issue with the shipping company here but my money is still gone as the package was sent back to China.

My last order from Kaidomain was good they have changed the shipping method to Australia and i received the order in about 3 weeks, that’s great to see something suss was going on with Aramex shipping company.

Custom kd leds
7070 hi

P35 hi

Too bad, too cool :(

I wonder if those are LatticePower LEDs. The Acebeam L35 was offered with a LatticePower P70 LED.

Hello! :-)

Can someone say something more or less recent about the P5000 or H17A drivers?

I am interested in knowing if they are being served as they look in the pictures, with R010 sense resistors…

Thanks.

Which Driver did you use?

The P35 emitter also has a 4000k 80CRI option. Has anyone tried it?

I have. It’s in Convoy S3 with 5A driver. I like the beam quality of it. Little pinkish and about as throwy as Nichia 219C. It can’t take that 8000mA that they advertize. Phosphor turns to charcoal.

Are there any current coupon codes for KD?

The forever working BLF one.

:-)

inhave one sitting in my workshop. And the p70 also. Still need to try them. Waiting on a driver from Convoy.

I have placed about 6 orders in the last 2-3 months with Kaidoman. All for bare leds (which I never do bc of the high likelihood of them be8ng lost in shipment bc the pkg is so small) and all have come in OK. Still waiting on one in shipment. Never get shipment updates or anything though. I don't track them either .. free shipping is nice! Orders take about 12-16 days to get to eastern USA.

I did. They burn at 7A. The one I had started smoking at 7A but looked good. I switched off immediately and paired with 5A driver. Smoke again. After a while I saw a brown dot at the phosphor edge. I’m disappointed and feel like I don’t want it anymore…