KC1 keychain light is available now

There should be normal temperature stepdowns with anduril (If he’s even putting anduril in the Uv mules)

UV LEDs need a high voltage so they won’t be driven too hard with direct drive.

You should wear polycarbonate glasses (almost any pair of plastic safety glasses will do, just double check to see that it blocks the Uv)

My normal prescription glasses are blue blockers / transitions - if I point the UV lights at them, very little UV goes through and the lenses will also go dark. I can’t find a transmission spectrum graph for them, but I’m hoping they’re ok for the odd bit of reflection that I might get.

Are the moon levels the same at those ramp levels or how do they compare? (5A CC (LVL3) vs 1+FET (LVL1))

I’m looking for a new house light and the FET+1 is low, but not low enough.

Also, does anyone know if these CC drivers are considered Buck or use some other kind of current regulation?

If I remember correctly the moon and both are similar once you set the KR4 to level one. Kr4 level 3 is high, But easy enough to set to level 1 ramp. I’m pretty sure the regulation is linear Constant current. No buck or boost.

So I don’t have to bother hank- does anyone know if any of the Nichia emitters offered are able to go into the D4SV2? I assume the E 21a’s can’t go in because the driver is not regulated? Maybe Hank has 219’s left? Can 219- go into D4sV2 ?

I also wanted to have Nichia 219C in my D4V2, have contacted Hank and he replied only 219C in 5000K available in a few. I am loking for the 4000K, I have not decided whether I will go with the Nichia 219C 5000K or the SST20 4000K.

I have 219C 4000k in a KR4, you should be aware that the ones Hank got have a donut hole/dark spot in the center of the beam with the standard optic. Not sure if it would be the same in D4Sv2, but I had to swap my KR4 to the frosted optic to fix the problem. I don’t mind that at all for the KR4 but I wouldn’t want to use a floody optic in D4Sv2, kind of defeats the purpose.

Mine (KR4 219C 4000k Carclo 10622) doesn’t have any donut hole. Have you tried to unescrew the bezel to check if the lens is centered?

There is quite a difference between the throwier 10621 and the still throwy (but not as much) 10622.

Mpb- Was your 219c with the donut hole using the 10622 (standard from Hank) or the throwier 10621? I’m just curious. Because I may try and get a 5000k 219c kr4 depending on which one you were using. I don’t mind using 10622 (the Hank “standard”) but I’m not going with frosted. I always prefer 10621, I don’t have any e21a to worry about bc I know they don’t work well with that optic.

Yes, no issue with fitment. I have noticed this issue with several other 219C lights I have, and I know of at least one other person who got a D4v2 w/219C 4000k and had the same darker spot. It is not apparent all the time, maybe wholly unnoticed if you are less picky than me.

10622, had to go to 10623 to fix the issue.

Alright, great to know. Thanks for the info mpb!

E21A 2000K is my favorite emitter. I have a copper KR4 with it and also one of my 9.3’s on CH1. I’d love it if that was available on all Hank’s lights, such as the D18

we need a 1800K E21A :disguised_face:

Yep I’d buy that. I loved the 2000K so much I replaced all the bulbs in my house with 2000K ones

But, but, no more blues ?

I found this bulb guide posted by someone else on BLF. It’s amazing

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/u/0/d/12jj1A6PNjHmWbFNu0FSisEztir7izxAhqw3ebxPLCZA/htmlview#gid=0

If someone wandering about «new batch» - it has more rounded edges in general, not only tailcap, even a SS bezel and protective ring more rounded, and larger logo. Also, I’d ordered with spare tailcap without magnet - and it comes old style (with lanyard hole). Here is «old» blue and «new» sand batches




Thanks for sharing those pic. I’ve been debating whether to order cyan d4 for a long time because I don’t have any Hanks cyan. I didn’t want it to be too light Of a blue. That color is really nice IMO

Can we get new style, no lanyard hole and no magnet?

Yes, color is great, maybe on picture it’s a little brighter, than in real life, but it’s definitely saturated. Just keep in mind, that cyan have different anodization - kinda matte, chalky and grippy, not as glossy and smooth as other colors.