In general, a 7135 chip at 350mA will be warmer than a FET using PWM to get an average of 350mA. On many LEDs, like SST-20 and LH351D, the 7135 chip will also be more green. Those LEDs get lower duv as the current increases, but not all LEDs follow that pattern.
So if you want the tint of a SST-20 or LH351D light to be colder and less green, using just the FET can be an effective solution.
However, it’ll also reduce efficiency, make the output not flat, make the bottom of the ramp really coarse, eliminate moon mode, and might age the LEDs faster. But it can still be worthwhile to get rid of the green tint.
OK… i know i am 2 years late to this, but the MF01 mini is easily one of my favorite lights and i just started reading this to find whcih Bin sst20 4000k was used. was it FA3? or FD2 by the way?
I like my silver version a lot, and i want the green. But HOW, HOW did blue or purple or red not happen? they look SO GOOD. makes me want to buy some more silver and anodize them myself… If taking the head apart wasn’t so difficult… OK, im done with my complaining.
I think I remember someone saying they had 1000 pcs of the FA3 but they weren’t going to use them in the MF01S. They were saving them for another light or something.
Has anyone ordered the aluminum w/copper head recently? Does it come with the plastic spacer insert around battery + or the new Brass spacer insert Astrolux has been using?
I’ve read in the threads that it was coming with plastic, but wondered if they updated the copper headed version like the did the all aluminum version, by adding the brass insert for better heat Mgmt