[Review]Lumintop FW21 Pro - 10000lm destruction

Hey Rat, that FW21 in copper looks sharp. I have a bunch of xhp 50.2 emitter lights so I’d probably want sst40. Where do you get those battery wraps from? I have FW4A & FW3A so I’ve been tossing up between the SBT90.2 FW90? or whatever it’s called but now ive decided it’s gonna be copper for sure.

You mean this top part that has to be unscrewed to change LEDs? Because it can be pulled out easily, just like FW3A series, I unscrewed it doing the review, to show the inside, but unfortunately, when screwing, I destroyed all LEDs, just annihilated them… So I decided to not show it. :stuck_out_tongue:

Yes the top part. Mine is stuck on very hard. I run the light on high multiple times to get it nice and hot than used rubber strap wrenches but still would not move. Maybe the copper version is different.
Have you still got a picture of it with the top and reflector off?

thx

The FW21 X9L (SBT90.2) also comes in copper. I think I will be getting that light next when it comes on sale. The copper KR1 also looks nice and sounds like it performs.

The scale wraps only took 8 days from aliexpress Here
I also use black wraps to get the battery a little thicker Here
The next one I do I will try a black wrap, than skull wrap, than a clear over that or it could be two black to get the right thickness I cannot remember how many I used on that battery.

thx

I dedomed my fw21 pro xhp50 before I sold it a few months ago. They are mounted on one board together. If you get bare 3V xhp50.2 leds you will be fine. You do not need to get a board. And I don’t know where you’d find a mcpcb like the fw21 pro “off the shelf”, I tried emailing lumintop to see if I could purchase a couple extra mcpcbs from them for the fw21 pro, but they never responded to me…I was going to mount 3 osram CULPM1 emitters on a second mcpcb so I had 2 different mcpcbs I could go between. The osram CULPM1 and culnm1 are both 4040 footprint like the sst40, so would be an easy reflow if you had the extra mcpcb

So… the appearance changes a lot. The tint changed approximately 1500-2000 cct, it will look like less than 5000k after dedome. The only concern is, it also turn quite green.

If you want it less green after dedome, You can order small sheets of Lee’s minus green from a member of blf here (DC-Fix Diffusion Film Sale) which will help counteract the green. If you do get the Lee’s minus green, go with –1/2. I did the –1/4 and I should have went more.

I loved the look after dedome at first but then after getting more lights with lower cct emitters, I realized how green the dedomed xhp50.2 is and ended up regretting the dedome. But if I had the appropriate minus green filter it would’ve been fine.

Remember, you will lose approx 15% output dedoming, but you’ll pickup about same % in throw.

If you have a heat gun, heat the bezel on medium / medium high for a couple of minutes. That is what I have done for inset stainless bezels that are hard to remove and it works every time. Also, if you have rubber heavy duty work gloves that helps a lot too.

Sounds like a plan.
Thanks for all the info. I will try the heat gun next. If I get it off I will order the bare LED’s.

thx

Fw21 pro xhp50, dedome, no minus green filter

dedome with lees -1/4 green filter

Sorry it’s not a great pic, but I found these from when I did the dedome


I don't have, but I can put it off for you, no problem ;)



Well, in my case it was much worse, tint changed A LOT


Sofirn SC31 Pro 6500K for reference

I am looking for something interesting to put there

Oh wow Mocarney! I’ve never seen anything like that !

Put (3) osram CULPM1 !! It would be so awesome, and I wanted to do it. You can buy them bare from Simon for about $27 for all 3 of them. Would be an awesome mod, and they are 4040 footprint so they would reflow right into the existing mcpcb. Perfect opportunity to do it considering what happened to yours.

Or just keep it as a imitation UV light lol

Thanks for that looks like a simple MCPCB swap if I can get my bezel ring off.
Lumintop said they can sell me the MCPCB for XHP 50.2 so I will order two. Then I can keep the 6500K LED’s on the original board. If I do not like the 5400K as much I can just fit the original back on. I will keep the second MCPCB for future mods maybe.
thx

WOW that filter makes a difference.

thx

I still have not got mine apart. Maybe Mocarny can tell you.

About 33.5mm :slight_smile:

If you dont mind, what way did you communicate it with Lumintop? I never had any luck with trying to communicate with them. I sold my fw21 pro because i never heard back about them selling me a seperate mcpcb…

Looks like most of the phosphor was scraped or pulled off the emitters when you took the domes off. I learned on this forum a while ago (can’t remember exactly where) that the reason why white LEDs look yellow when they’re not powered is because the diode itself only emits a very narrow band of wavelengths, almost like a laser, and the rest of the spectrum is filled in when that blue/violet light hits a yellowish florescent material. Without that yellow phosphor - all that’s left on yours are those little yellow scraps you can see in the pics - you’re left with nothing but that lasery indigo.

definitely an easy fix once you get 3 more 4040 or 5050 bare leds, just reflow and go!

you decide mocarny which emitters your going with?

The SST40 has a 5050 footprint, the same as the XHP50.2. The 4040s may fit on 5050 pads, i haven’t checked, but it’s not a like for like size swap.