Definitely!
I became interested after trying a 20mm triple with NM1s. REALLY nice beam pattern IMO. Even a 10507 w/ sst20s is too floody for my taste/application to EDC. 1mm² though is the trick. I’ll try and do that tonight
Boring reflow, but for some reason felt the need to share:
2020 RRT-01, replaced the stock awful 219C with a high CRI LH351D 4000K
Nice work e1000. It’s interesting how some of the “same” LEDs can be good or bad.
I have a modified JAXMAN E2L with triple Nichia NVSL219C D240 4000K 90+ CRI LEDs and the tint is fairly good. And I have a modified AA/14500 flashlight with a Samsung LH351D 90+ CRI 4000K LED where the tint is barely tolerable.
Nice work! Yeah sometimes you have to get the emitter right with the optic. In the case of the RRT-01, although it’s a 219C, they did not use one that’s high CRI. It had to go!
Thanks for testing JaredM 
It is not a led for extreme output but still good. How is the tint when a hotspot is projected from a reflector?
Thanks a lot JaredM.
The board was non-DTP, copper, right?
Vf is quite low….but it may be partially caused by heat.
This LED falls right in the ambiguous range where I have no idea if it ultimately throws better or worse than sliced SST-20 (and is definitely better than non-sliced SST-20 or E21A). 
Efficiency is a bit low at low currents.
Virence boards are non-DTP but have an extreme thin dielectric layer so they behave like DTP.
Virence has shifted from nanoceramic alu to more regular non-DTP copper later.
I’m not sure about that specific board.
Neither is quite as good as DTP but they are close.
Hello, here’s my humble mod I’ve made time ago. Astrolux (Mateminco) S41 with XP-G3. The flashlight came with damaged LEDs right from the seller. Domes fell off the LEDs after first use, so I’ve changed them. I wanted to make it a pocket-rocket. Thank you guys for inspiration, so many usefull informations are here.
Beamshot before and after
I had spare Astrolux lighted switch, that came blank withou LEDs and resistors on it. So I’ve tried to put that dedomed bluish XP-G3 LEDs on it.
Great work ma3oska!
Thank you djozz, really appreciate it.
Can you tell me please if that lighted tail switch with XP-G3 LEDs have more current consumption than standard lighted tail switch?
Duv is definitely positive and cct is probably a bit higher than 4000k to my eye. Angular tint shift of the bare emitter is minimal. Despite being objectively green, it is somehow pleasant and Rg appears good. I tested it briefly with an SMO reflector (technically out of an ET T25C2 but from KD) focused by hand and again, angular tint shift was really not obvious and the corona was barely greener than the hotspot, and really just at the edge. I’ll try more today.
Heat was definitely NOT an issue here. In fact, I couldn’t believe how well this thing held steady output after turn on at high amps. I ran the emitter at 2.25A for a few minutes before collecting data seen here. I also checked Vf bone cold and it was only three to five mV higher at 350mA. The Virence quad 757 board is of the ceramic/Al variety. The CZ has an isolated three pad footprint, and on the 757 board it actually reflowed into place first try no hassle. Even better, I think that it’s centered enough to work in a 106xx spot optic. I only have the wide angle carclo on hand currently, and only one emitter. If you reference the datasheet, my results line up fairly well, but again I over perform in the higher current range. Efficacy is right on at binning current, but flux about 5% high, so that suggests Tj is significantly lower than 85C.
I don’t know if it stood out or not, but the output data fit a near perfect 2nd order polynomial, so estimating output at any current should be easy. I’m going to go check my other test data and see how well they fit a parabola. It’ll be nice to just type in a current and get flux.
thanks for the info
Should be close, they both run well under normal current where heat is no issue so lm/W should be similar.
I’ve never trusted the generic Astrolux switches with high current flashlights so I’ve replaced them with Omtens. But I do like how the Astrolux lighted switches use double springs.
Nice work Ma3oska.
Thank you NeutralFan.
You mean that generic Astrolux switch has effect to high current? I thought that the only problem with high current flashlight is in springs. So if you do springs bypass or have double spring it’s enough.
Sunwayman V11r mod to LH351d 3500k High CRI:
The LH351d produces an excellent beam, better than stock, no obviously visible rings nor shadows in the spill, and the large hotspot is very useful:
The color rendering is Much better than stock, reds look Red:
Outputs
stock
0.02 to 199 lumens on cr123
0.03 to 440 lumens on 16340
0.04 to 145 lumens on Eneloop AA
mod to LH351d 3500k
0.02 to 155 lumens on cr123
0.03 to 385 lumens on 16340
0.02 to 119 lumens on Eneloop AA
fwiw, because the stock reflector has a large hole at the base, intended for the XM-L, the LH351d is an excellent replacement, and makes a much nicer beam than a 219b. The mcpcb must be replaced to accomodate 3535 LEDs, I like to use a 12mm board, here is one source
Nice job Jon!
FYI, I can’t decide if I want to emitter swap my OG RRT01, it’s one of the few lights that I haven’t modded at this point.