FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

The Damascus and Mokume FW3As come with a buck-boost + FET driver, not the standard 7+1+FET from the original FW3A. It sounds like the buck-boost channel is not working, but the FET is. Similar problem, same solution is to contact the vendor.

Those drivers also do not have reverse polarity protection, if you ever put the battery in backward even once, the driver is toast.

Thanks for the info.

Thank you for this. I will contact the Seller.

Is it possible to purchase replacement drivers?

Pretty sure that is a special driver. You will have to ask the seller. You paid a pretty penny, they should accommodate you.

The driver linked to in post 1540 is the Lume1 from loneoceans. I believe that is the special driver used in that fancy lookinh FW3a that has the problem.

Very neat driver. Seems it does use the Attiny1634 MCU. More info on it HERE in Loneoceans thread. A lot of components packed onto a board the size of a quarter.


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My FW3A has lost all it’s functionality. Won’t lock w/ 4 presses, no clicky modes, and now dims and brightens with just one press. Is there a factory default that can be done?

Was the tailcap removed or loosened just before this happened? It has been noted that the tailcap MUST be tightened tightly FIRST and then the head screwed on.

How old is this FW3A?

Anduril User Interface Manual: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril-manual.txt

First check if your light is in "Muggle Mode":
NOTE: Muggle mode is remembered even after changing the battery.
Click 6 times from Off to enter or exit Muggle Mode.


To "Reset Factory Defaults" (may not work with older versions of Anduril):
NOTE: you may need to recalibrate temperature after resetting factory defaults.

Method 1: (for FW3A type lights with an inner control signal tube)
13 clicks while off but hold the 13th click until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.

Method 2: (for other lights unlike FW3A type lights without an inner control signal tube)
Disconnect power by loosening battery tube and then hold the e-switch while reconnecting power until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.

was in muggle mode! Thank you. I want to buy another one of these. Love the light. Thank you!

Hey folks someone here may know the answer to this, I have a FW4A and want to know if the different size battery/body tubes from a FW3A can be used on my FW4A? There are heaps of listings for FW3A body tubes and I have not been able to specifically find FW4A ones. So I thought maybe as they take the same size battery (flat top 18650) that tail caps and bodies are interchangeable? Can anyone confirm this? Thanks

I know my FW4A hates button top cells, actually I think you’d do damage trying to use one screwing the cap all the way down. They tooo long.

You can use some button tops if you remove the + spring, but its not a guarantee. Some are still too long

Yes the body and tailcap are exactly the same between the two lights. Only difference is the head. So that means all the different bodies(18350, 18500, 18650) clips, and custom buttons that work on the FW3A will work on the FW4A.

Thanks a bunch all i could get from the China sellers was the fw3a tube is for the fw3a. Now I can order some parts.

Mine stopped working today. Removed the battery to recharge, placed it back, it blinked , and nothing.
Was a daily used light this year, and I really like it.
Tried to reset it, nothing.

Were should I send it to get fixed? It was bought here in the group buy.

Sounds like the common issue experienced with these lights. Have you read through this thread? Most of the time it is a matter of loosening the head and tightening the tail. Then retighten the head. Also clean and tighten the retaining ring (s) with alcohol. Clean all contact points where the tubes meet tail and head. Make sure you haven’t gotten into muggle mode . If yours is one of the later ones, try a reset.

Sounds like your switch isn’t making contact. Try what Penzzy said. Loosen head, tighten tail, then tighten head.

You can verify if the switch is making contact by removing the head and using a digital multimeter like in this vid. https://youtu.be/kjtaQI4XDYs
You may have to play with the tightness of the tail to get it working. Then attach the head. It can be a bit finicky getting the torque right.

It’s not financially feasible to ship it off. Shipping would cost the same or more than the light is worth.

Did what you both suggested an still nothing.

The multimeter, when doing the tail swith test, does buzz, showing that has continuity(?).
When measuring the head, it shows 1.69mA.
When fidling with the proves, the light momentarily ramped, but I couldn’t replicate it.

Shipping to the USA, would cost me 8€.