Convoy S2+ 2700k-3500k Tint Samples

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Hank33
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Convoy S2+ 2700k-3500k Tint Samples

 

There's been a lot of talk and hype lately about 2000K to 4000K led tints. So I had a bunch I ordered a year ago and decided to install them. Not bad I must say. I've been using my Astrolux Mini SST20, 4000K a lot and the tint is lovely. But the warmer tints are starting to stir my interest!money-mouthlaughing

So here's my S2+ night beam shots. Might not be the greatest cuz I used my iPhone.laughing 

 

Red flashlight is SST20 (2700K)

Blue flashlight is SST20 (3000K)

Black flashlight is XPL HI (3000K)

Purple flashlight is Samsung 351D (3500K)

 

 

                                                                                             

Edited by: Hank33 on 03/29/2021 - 01:07
Jack Kellar
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I have a 2700K SST20 S2+ just like your red one and it is lovely. Nicest tint I have, hands down. With a 30° TIR it works perfectly as a flooder, and if you want compact throw just use it with a reflector.

Aussiemandias
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I hear you.

In a couple of weeks, this line-up is going to have much more amber/orange and much less green.
I have some SST20 2700k emitters on hand. Waiting on LH351D 2700 and E21A in 2200 and 3500. Then I start switching out.
(And an E21A 2000k Emisar D4V2 on the way.)

L -> R:

Orange – XPL Hi U3-7A (3000-3300K)
Blue – Nichia 219b sw45k (4500K)
Cyan – Nichia 219c (4000k)
Gray – LH351D (4000k)
Red – XM-L2 T6 4C (4200-4500k)
Green – SST40 (5000k)
Tan – Nichia 219C (5700k)

Jack Kellar
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Aussiemandias wrote:
I hear you.

In a couple of weeks, this line-up is going to have much more amber/orange and much less green.
I have some SST20 2700k emitters on hand. Waiting on LH351D 2700 and E21A in 2200 and 3500. Then I start switching out.
(And an E21A 2000k Emisar D4V2 on the way.)

L -> R:

Orange – XPL Hi U3-7A (3000-3300K)
Blue – Nichia 219b sw45k (4500K)
Cyan – Nichia 219c (4000k)
Gray – LH351D (4000k)
Red – XM-L2 T6 4C (4200-4500k)
Green – SST40 (5000k)
Tan – Nichia 219C (5700k)


Damn, that SST20 5000K is greener than the woods around here when rain season starts. Really dodged a bullet with the one I got on an M2.

Hank33
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Aussiemandias wrote:
I hear you.

In a couple of weeks, this line-up is going to have much more amber/orange and much less green.
I have some SST20 2700k emitters on hand. Waiting on LH351D 2700 and E21A in 2200 and 3500. Then I start switching out.
(And an E21A 2000k Emisar D4V2 on the way.)

L -> R:

Orange – XPL Hi U3-7A (3000-3300K)
Blue – Nichia 219b sw45k (4500K)
Cyan – Nichia 219c (4000k)
Gray – LH351D (4000k)
Red – XM-L2 T6 4C (4200-4500k)
Green – SST40 (5000k)
Tan – Nichia 219C (5700k)

Nice colors except maybe the green one as mentioned above lol. Warmer hues are catching my attention lately. Funny thing is after seeing 2700K tints, all of sudden even 3000K is kinda too whitish now. The hue is really easy on the eyes and brain. Hmmm wonder how 2000K looks!

But I might say, your blue S2+ with Nichia 219b sw45k (4500K) looks interesting. Reminds me of the change I want to try with my EDC18 using Carlo 10507. Too bad they don’t have it in triple format for the EDC18, or do they?? See, I have 2 triples. XPL HI (5000K) and Nichia 219c (4000K). I was looking for a little bit more throw when using the Nichia’s.

Interesting how the brain works with hues after a while. Smile

 

                                                                                             

Aussiemandias
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Jack Kellar wrote:
Damn, that SST20 5000K is greener than the woods around here when rain season starts. Really dodged a bullet with the one I got on an M2.

Ha! Yes, to be fair though, I was trying to get the XPL 3000k image to match what I see and that ramped up the green on the right hand side. Still… looking forward to switching that out.

Aussiemandias
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Hank33 wrote:
Nice colors except maybe the green one as mentioned above lol. Warmer hues are catching my attention lately. Funny thing is after seeing 2700K tints, all of sudden even 3000K is kinda too whitish now. The hue is really easy on the eyes and brain. Hmmm wonder how 2000K looks!

But I might say, your blue S2+ with Nichia 219b sw45k (4500K) looks interesting. Reminds me of the change I want to try with my EDC18 using Carlo 10507. Too bad they don’t have it in triple format for the EDC18, or do they?? See, I have 2 triples. XPL HI (5000K) and Nichia 219c (4000K). I was looking for a little bit more throw when using the Nichia’s.

Interesting how the brain works with hues after a while. Smile

The sw45k is very nice. It’s a very clean white beam all the way across, with that slight rosy hue. I’ll post some more beam shots once I’ve finished switching the others. And yep, after playing around with all these, I definitely have an affinity for the warmer side. As you say, even the 3000k is too white! Big Smile

Hank33
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I’m gonna order one. Might be the one I need. I’m actually carrying around the 3000K more nowadays. Smile

 

                                                                                             

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Can you use sw45k’s in EDC18? I remember reading that those can’t handle the power in FW3A and EDC18 is almost same light, right?

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Yeah no I meant I’m gonna try the sw45k by itself. I just want to see how the tint looks. You right I don’t think there is a triple in that configuration. If there was, I’d grab it right away! Smile

 

                                                                                             

Aussiemandias
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Current S2+ line-up. Really not happy with the SST20 2700k. To me it looks more like a 3000k or even higher. I have some LH351D 2700k boards enroute. See how it goes instead.
I’m 100% in love with the E21A 2200k. Can’t wait for my D4V2 2000k to arrive! Also the E21A 3500k is the most neutral white I’ve seen so far.

Orange Nichia E21A 2200k
Grey SST20 2700k
Purple XPL HI U3-7A 3000K
Cyan XM-L2 T4-7A 3000k
Red Nichia E21A 3500k
Blue Nichia 219b 4500k
Tan Nichia 219c 5700k
Green SST40 5000K

E21A 2200k and 3500k

Aussiemandias
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Whoohoo, 2000k D4V2 arrived today. Will try and get some beamshots tonight.

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Nice! Should be an almost orange- reddish kinda tint maybe. Smile Did you order it from int-Outdoors?

 

                                                                                             

Aussiemandias
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Yep, direct from Hank’s website. Ordered it with magnet tailcap and frosted optic.

So these are my three E21A torches. L > R: D4V2 2000k (quad) __ S2+ 2200K (single) __ S2+ 3500k (single)

Now we just need to convince Simon at Convoy to offer E21A’s as an option!

jon_slider
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Hank33 wrote:
Yeah no I meant I’m gonna try the sw45k by itself. I just want to see how the tint looks. You right I don’t think there is a triple in that configuration. If there was, I’d grab it right away! Smile

your wish could come true (but its not a convoy):

Jetbeam RRT-01 2019, alu heatsink potted with triple Nichia 219B 4500K

id30209 wrote:
Hank33
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jon_slider wrote:
Hank33 wrote:
Yeah no I meant I’m gonna try the sw45k by itself. I just want to see how the tint looks. You right I don’t think there is a triple in that configuration. If there was, I’d grab it right away! Smile

your wish could come true (but its not a convoy):

Jetbeam RRT-01 2019, alu heatsink potted with triple Nichia 219B 4500K

id30209 wrote:

Hey there it is! Thanks jon for the find. Looks warm. Smile Might have to ask about shipping first though.$) The only Jetbeam I have currently is the Jetbeam Mini One.

 

                                                                                             

zoulas
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Although I have been involved with flashlights for 20+ years, I am always willing to learn something.

Other than a color preference, what is the craze these days with yellow looking lights? I can understand high CRI because the colors are more accurately reproduced but why the yellow? I thought yellow was more appropriate for indoor lights and overhead road lights. Thanks in advance.

Hank33
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Maybe because it's just starting to go mainstream. But quite the jump in tints too.:D I think it might have it's purpose like vegetation but yeah pretty much yellowish indeed. Hues more like Yellow Ochre.

Yellow Ochre

 

                                                                                             

cetary
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zoulas wrote:
Although I have been involved with flashlights for 20+ years, I am always willing to learn something.

Other than a color preference, what is the craze these days with yellow looking lights? I can understand high CRI because the colors are more accurately reproduced but why the yellow? I thought yellow was more appropriate for indoor lights and overhead road lights. Thanks in advance.

The E21A 2000K/2200K is not yellow, by any scientific definition. 2000K white light looks like candle light. No more flame or fire hazard to worry about, and I’m betting 2000K LEDs are cheaper in the long term to run vs candles. The warmer CCT, for some people, takes several minutes of adjustment until their eyes see the light as a pleasing light. The warm appearance of 2200K/2000K becomes exaggerated when coming from a room lit in 4000K-5000K lights, or if you’re using tablets, smartphones, tv’s, or computers without blue-light filters. There are use cases outdoors for such warm tints. The vaunted sub-lumen white light is better served by lower blue LEDs as per the Kruithoff-Curve. The human eye, is also able to process the depleted-blue light easier with less glare. That’s less glare for you and everyone around you. There’s also the potential for reduced insect attraction.

Though, that being said, there are amber and yellow light sources with much lower CRI and CCT near 2000K, such as the 1940K XP-E2 PC Amber which is described as an amber light. The W1 yellow is another example of yellow light with a 1700K CCT and 62 CRI. These light sources are almost devoid of blue even compared to 2200K. There’s also very little red. It’s kind of funny, actually. The low-end “cool-white” LEDs used car headlights are 65 CRI, and they aren’t far off from the W1 yellow in terms of “natural color reproduction”. These are lights, falsely, marketed as producing a more “natural light” then halogen, and yet they’re in the same color quality neighborhood as the W1 yellow. Anyways, off on a tangent.

jon_slider
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I like the option to use High CRI Warm White Color Temperature when my brain is dark adapted, and I want to maintain a relaxing atmosphere

I also like the option to use High CRI Neutral White Color Temperature when my brain is adapted to ambient Cool White daylight or artificial light that is Cool White.

I generally avoid using Cool White LEDs at all, especially because they tend to be Low CRI and Green Tinted.

Low CRI Warm light is not actually Yellow it is a lower color temperature, not a tint, Low CRI has no red component, and can look “ochre”
but
High CRI Warm White light has a LOT of Red and it looks Tangerine and Orange colored

here you can see where yellow and orange are and where my 4500k 219b LED sits, below the bbl, in the magenta tint area:

(I avoid 219c because it is yellower, less red content)

our brain, and cameras, change white balance based on ambient light, so when we turn on an LED light, it will look either cooler or warmer, than ambient.

ambient changes at sunrise and sunset it is redder and lower color temperature, at noon it is the coolest, then back to sunset..

I prefer different lights during the day, than after sunset.. so I have options that are neither too cool nor too warm, depending on the ambient light my brain is adapted to

camping and relaxing, I prefer warmer lights, working I prefer cooler lights

Ive mostly settled on what I call my Dynamic Duo:
219b 4500k and 219b 3000k

here is a trio of lights I modded
the 4500k on the left is my EDC, the 2700k on the right is my bathroom light, and the 3000k is what I use to walk thru the house when Im turning off the incandescent lights and going to bed.

I could get by with just the 4500k… but then, what would I do with myself

exploring warmer color temperatures is entertaining.. its not like I need 3 dozen lights… but somehow… Smile

Aussiemandias
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zoulas wrote:
Although I have been involved with flashlights for 20+ years, I am always willing to learn something.

Other than a color preference, what is the craze these days with yellow looking lights? I can understand high CRI because the colors are more accurately reproduced but why the yellow? I thought yellow was more appropriate for indoor lights and overhead road lights. Thanks in advance.


Cetary’s answer is great (edit: and now Jon’s)- a lot more knowledgeable than mine could be. I find the warm hues very pleasing, yes, close to candle light or a fire. Then because these torches are only for indoors, the low blue light is healthier in respect of the circadian rhythm and sleep.

For outdoors I have neutral and cool options.

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The warmer temps remind me of the incans of my youth… 2700k looks just right to me when I am dark adapted.

This space for let.

Aussiemandias
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jon_slider wrote:
exploring warmer color temperatures is entertaining.. its not like I need 3 dozen lights… but somehow… Smile

This Big Smile

I didn’t really have any hobbies until now. It’s fun and educational. I’m enjoying the tweaking, the learning, looking forward to little challenges.

My next step will be replacing the stock cool white emitters on a quad S43 with 219b sw30s. It’ll be my first reflow so I’m reading up on the process, the dangers, etc, and planning out how I’ll do it. Fun and educational!

zoulas
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jon_slider wrote:
I like the option to use High CRI Warm White Color Temperature when my brain is dark adapted, and I want to maintain a relaxing atmosphere

I also like the option to use High CRI Neutral White Color Temperature when my brain is adapted to ambient Cool White daylight or artificial light that is Cool White.

I generally avoid using Cool White LEDs at all, especially because they tend to be Low CRI and Green Tinted.

Low CRI Warm light is not actually Yellow it is a lower color temperature, not a tint, Low CRI has no red component, and can look “ochre”
but
High CRI Warm White light has a LOT of Red and it looks Tangerine and Orange colored

here you can see where yellow and orange are and where my 4500k 219b LED sits, below the bbl, in the magenta tint area:

(I avoid 219c because it is yellower, less red content)

our brain, and cameras, change white balance based on ambient light, so when we turn on an LED light, it will look either cooler or warmer, than ambient.

ambient changes at sunrise and sunset it is redder and lower color temperature, at noon it is the coolest, then back to sunset..

I prefer different lights during the day, than after sunset.. so I have options that are neither too cool nor too warm, depending on the ambient light my brain is adapted to

camping and relaxing, I prefer warmer lights, working I prefer cooler lights

Ive mostly settled on what I call my Dynamic Duo:
219b 4500k and 219b 3000k

here is a trio of lights I modded
the 4500k on the left is my EDC, the 2700k on the right is my bathroom light, and the 3000k is what I use to walk thru the house when Im turning off the incandescent lights and going to bed.

I could get by with just the 4500k… but then, what would I do with myself

exploring warmer color temperatures is entertaining.. its not like I need 3 dozen lights… but somehow… Smile

Great write-up, thanks

Hank33
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zoulas wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
I like the option to use High CRI Warm White Color Temperature when my brain is dark adapted, and I want to maintain a relaxing atmosphere

I also like the option to use High CRI Neutral White Color Temperature when my brain is adapted to ambient Cool White daylight or artificial light that is Cool White.

I generally avoid using Cool White LEDs at all, especially because they tend to be Low CRI and Green Tinted.

Low CRI Warm light is not actually Yellow it is a lower color temperature, not a tint, Low CRI has no red component, and can look “ochre”
but
High CRI Warm White light has a LOT of Red and it looks Tangerine and Orange colored

here you can see where yellow and orange are and where my 4500k 219b LED sits, below the bbl, in the magenta tint area:

(I avoid 219c because it is yellower, less red content)

our brain, and cameras, change white balance based on ambient light, so when we turn on an LED light, it will look either cooler or warmer, than ambient.

ambient changes at sunrise and sunset it is redder and lower color temperature, at noon it is the coolest, then back to sunset..

I prefer different lights during the day, than after sunset.. so I have options that are neither too cool nor too warm, depending on the ambient light my brain is adapted to

camping and relaxing, I prefer warmer lights, working I prefer cooler lights

Ive mostly settled on what I call my Dynamic Duo:
219b 4500k and 219b 3000k

here is a trio of lights I modded
the 4500k on the left is my EDC, the 2700k on the right is my bathroom light, and the 3000k is what I use to walk thru the house when Im turning off the incandescent lights and going to bed.

I could get by with just the 4500k… but then, what would I do with myself

exploring warmer color temperatures is entertaining.. its not like I need 3 dozen lights… but somehow… Smile

Great write-up, thanks

Good info and good read! Smile

 

                                                                                             

Hank33
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cetary wrote:
zoulas wrote:
Although I have been involved with flashlights for 20+ years, I am always willing to learn something.

Other than a color preference, what is the craze these days with yellow looking lights? I can understand high CRI because the colors are more accurately reproduced but why the yellow? I thought yellow was more appropriate for indoor lights and overhead road lights. Thanks in advance.

The E21A 2000K/2200K is not yellow, by any scientific definition. 2000K white light looks like candle light. No more flame or fire hazard to worry about, and I’m betting 2000K LEDs are cheaper in the long term to run vs candles. The warmer CCT, for some people, takes several minutes of adjustment until their eyes see the light as a pleasing light. The warm appearance of 2200K/2000K becomes exaggerated when coming from a room lit in 4000K-5000K lights, or if you’re using tablets, smartphones, tv’s, or computers without blue-light filters. There are use cases outdoors for such warm tints. The vaunted sub-lumen white light is better served by lower blue LEDs as per the Kruithoff-Curve. The human eye, is also able to process the depleted-blue light easier with less glare. That’s less glare for you and everyone around you. There’s also the potential for reduced insect attraction.

Though, that being said, there are amber and yellow light sources with much lower CRI and CCT near 2000K, such as the 1940K XP-E2 PC Amber which is described as an amber light. The W1 yellow is another example of yellow light with a 1700K CCT and 62 CRI. These light sources are almost devoid of blue even compared to 2200K. There’s also very little red. It’s kind of funny, actually. The low-end “cool-white” LEDs used car headlights are 65 CRI, and they aren’t far off from the W1 yellow in terms of “natural color reproduction”. These are lights, falsely, marketed as producing a more “natural light” then halogen, and yet they’re in the same color quality neighborhood as the W1 yellow. Anyways, off on a tangent.

I’m noticing these days that the more I look at warmer tints like 2700K-3000K, the more white 4000K seems to be. Big Smile BTW, where you all get the 2000K ones from? I don’t see it at Kaidomain.

 

                                                                                             

Aussiemandias
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Hank33 wrote:
I’m noticing these days that the more I look at warmer tints like 2700K-3000K, the more white 4000K seems to be. Big Smile BTW, where you all get the 2000K ones from? I don’t see it at Kaidomain.

Haha. The more time I spend with 2000k, the more neutral 2200k looks.

I dunno where people are sourcing the 2000k leds (apart from in a torch at int-outdoor), but Mouser has the Luminus 1616 1800k. I’m just trying to find an appropriate mcpcb for it. Big Smile

cetary
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Eurekatronix has the 2000K E21A and soldering service to.

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cetary wrote:
Eurekatronix has the 2000K E21A and soldering service to.

I notice that but I also see the soldering service is ‘out of stock’ on the site. I’d guessed he wasn’t doing that while he sets up the new store. And people here have mentioned he hasn’t been around. Do you know if he’s still shipping products out? Thanks.

cetary
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I don’t know. It’s been a while since I last bought E21A’s from him. I know that Fireflies also has the E21A mules with a 2000K option.

You might be able to buy emitters and triple and quad mcpcb’s from Hank at intl-outdoor. I know that he sells separate XP-L’s and boards for those.

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Going to intl-outdoor is like going to candy store, so much goodies! Big Smile I like Hank. Thumbs Up

 

                                                                                             

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