Hey there it is! Thanks jon for the find. Looks warm. Might have to ask about shipping first though.:money_mouth_face: The only Jetbeam I have currently is the Jetbeam Mini One.
Although I have been involved with flashlights for 20+ years, I am always willing to learn something.
Other than a color preference, what is the craze these days with yellow looking lights? I can understand high CRI because the colors are more accurately reproduced but why the yellow? I thought yellow was more appropriate for indoor lights and overhead road lights. Thanks in advance.
Maybe because it's just starting to go mainstream. But quite the jump in tints too.:D I think it might have it's purpose like vegetation but yeah pretty much yellowish indeed. Hues more like Yellow Ochre.
The E21A 2000K/2200K is not yellow, by any scientific definition. 2000K white light looks like candle light. No more flame or fire hazard to worry about, and Iām betting 2000K LEDs are cheaper in the long term to run vs candles. The warmer CCT, for some people, takes several minutes of adjustment until their eyes see the light as a pleasing light. The warm appearance of 2200K/2000K becomes exaggerated when coming from a room lit in 4000K-5000K lights, or if youāre using tablets, smartphones, tvās, or computers without blue-light filters. There are use cases outdoors for such warm tints. The vaunted sub-lumen white light is better served by lower blue LEDs as per the Kruithoff-Curve. The human eye, is also able to process the depleted-blue light easier with less glare. Thatās less glare for you and everyone around you. Thereās also the potential for reduced insect attraction.
Though, that being said, there are amber and yellow light sources with much lower CRI and CCT near 2000K, such as the 1940K XP-E2 PC Amber which is described as an amber light. The W1 yellow is another example of yellow light with a 1700K CCT and 62 CRI. These light sources are almost devoid of blue even compared to 2200K. Thereās also very little red. Itās kind of funny, actually. The low-end ācool-whiteā LEDs used car headlights are 65 CRI, and they arenāt far off from the W1 yellow in terms of ānatural color reproductionā. These are lights, falsely, marketed as producing a more ānatural lightā then halogen, and yet theyāre in the same color quality neighborhood as the W1 yellow. Anyways, off on a tangent.
I like the option to use High CRI Warm White Color Temperature when my brain is dark adapted, and I want to maintain a relaxing atmosphere
I also like the option to use High CRI Neutral White Color Temperature when my brain is adapted to ambient Cool White daylight or artificial light that is Cool White.
I generally avoid using Cool White LEDs at all, especially because they tend to be Low CRI and Green Tinted.
Low CRI Warm light is not actually Yellow it is a lower color temperature, not a tint, Low CRI has no red component, and can look āochreā
but
High CRI Warm White light has a LOT of Red and it looks Tangerine and Orange colored
here you can see where yellow and orange are and where my 4500k 219b LED sits, below the bbl, in the magenta tint area:
(I avoid 219c because it is yellower, less red content)
our brain, and cameras, change white balance based on ambient light, so when we turn on an LED light, it will look either cooler or warmer, than ambient.
ambient changes at sunrise and sunset it is redder and lower color temperature, at noon it is the coolest, then back to sunsetā¦
I prefer different lights during the day, than after sunsetā¦ so I have options that are neither too cool nor too warm, depending on the ambient light my brain is adapted to
camping and relaxing, I prefer warmer lights, working I prefer cooler lights
Ive mostly settled on what I call my Dynamic Duo:
219b 4500k and 219b 3000k
here is a trio of lights I modded
the 4500k on the left is my EDC, the 2700k on the right is my bathroom light, and the 3000k is what I use to walk thru the house when Im turning off the incandescent lights and going to bed.
I could get by with just the 4500kā¦ but then, what would I do with myself
exploring warmer color temperatures is entertainingā¦ its not like I need 3 dozen lightsā¦ but somehowā¦
Cetaryās answer is great (edit: and now Jonās)- a lot more knowledgeable than mine could be. I find the warm hues very pleasing, yes, close to candle light or a fire. Then because these torches are only for indoors, the low blue light is healthier in respect of the circadian rhythm and sleep.
I didnāt really have any hobbies until now. Itās fun and educational. Iām enjoying the tweaking, the learning, looking forward to little challenges.
My next step will be replacing the stock cool white emitters on a quad S43 with 219b sw30s. Itāll be my first reflow so Iām reading up on the process, the dangers, etc, and planning out how Iāll do it. Fun and educational!
Iām noticing these days that the more I look at warmer tints like 2700K-3000K, the more white 4000K seems to be. BTW, where you all get the 2000K ones from? I donāt see it at Kaidomain.
Haha. The more time I spend with 2000k, the more neutral 2200k looks.
I dunno where people are sourcing the 2000k leds (apart from in a torch at int-outdoor), but Mouser has the Luminus 1616 1800k. Iām just trying to find an appropriate mcpcb for it.
I notice that but I also see the soldering service is āout of stockā on the site. Iād guessed he wasnāt doing that while he sets up the new store. And people here have mentioned he hasnāt been around. Do you know if heās still shipping products out? Thanks.
I donāt know. Itās been a while since I last bought E21Aās from him. I know that Fireflies also has the E21A mules with a 2000K option.
You might be able to buy emitters and triple and quad mcpcbās from Hank at intl-outdoor. I know that he sells separate XP-Lās and boards for those.
I asked Hank. He does sell mounted quads but not singles. Got my singles from Cutter in Australia but the lowest cct they offer is 2200k. Lumitronix sell mounted singles but again they donāt offer 2000k.