V4 of my B17 17mm boost driver, success finally!

Wow, impressive. That looks like a really tight squeeze onto a 17mm driver!

It sure was a lot of component shuffling before finding a design that could fit it all.

Impressive stuff. How large is the spring pad? I’m a bit nervous around cramped double-sided drivers after I killed one in my Old Lumens project…

Thanks for using 0603 though, in case I ever build one.

Congratulations Mike. :slight_smile:

Congrats! There is no limit to improvement.

congratulations. good looking driver, looking forward to seeing it in a flashlight soon.

Thanks guys. If I had been a little less stubborn hanging on with the 3217 I probably would have had it done a long time ago. Good thing is that 1616 code is 100% identical to 3217 code if using the same pins, just copy and paste and it’s good to go.

It’s 5mm. I think I could increase it by maybe half a millimeter by moving some components a little, but I don’t think it makes much a difference. Cramped like this is not ideal, but for me 17mm is the holy grail size for high power boost drivers. I have a bunch of hosts that use 17mm drivers, and it’s always easy to make a bigger driver than a smaller one.

If anyone wants to build one I can make the PCB available for purchase on OSH Park and provide BOM. However, it requires you to familiarize yourself with the new 1-series MCUs, it’s a different flashing kit. My firmware isn’t finished yet but all basic functionality is done.

I also have to thank Loneoceans, he has been extremely helpful with explaining things about his driver, patiently answering all of my questions.

Congratulations Mike! I am glad you are back.

Just use a custom sized brass/copper button on driver side and make the other spring do double duty.

The tech stuff is beyond me but 60W! I know that’s damn impressive. As is designing your own driver of course.
What’s it going in?

Thanks. I needed the break, now I’m motivated again.

That’s what I had in mind when designing. I’ve used brass buttons on my previous versions, I put them on during reflow if I intend to install the driver in a light.

I didn’t get a chance to test before the LED unsoldered itself. I have to provide cooling for it before I turn it on full blast again, but I do want to find out so I’ll get that measurement soon.

I definitely want to know it’s max capability is but i meant what host is it going in, what torch are you going to build with it?

Very nice :+1: .

2 questions :
Where do you get your brass button ?
Do you get flickering at very low current, <100uA (I mentionned it in my thread)

Awesome! That’s a lot of power in a 17mm driver.

Yeah, brass buttons seems to be the way on crowded drivers. And I agree, 17mm opens up a ton of host options. I think if I want to start putting brass buttons on anything, I’m gonna have to buy a brass rod and cut them to length myself.

How can this be configured for a maximum output current, for example if one intended to use it with XHP35.2 HI?

When you settle on a final design, oshpark and BOM would be awesome!

Ahh, with “in” I though in current :smiley: I will make some pocket rockets out of some old Convoy S2 and M2 hosts, and I have a bunch of Brynite B158B hosts which have custom pills for wider zoom (Build/Mod: Zoomie with Brynite B158B host (wider flood mod)). I plan on building B158B with these drivers configured for 12V and use XHP35 HIs in them, I think I have four of those LEDs laying around somewhere.

I’ve had them for so long, sorry I don’t remember. It could have been intl-outdoor.com but if so they are no longer in stock. I’ve bought so many small bits and bobs over the years, I don’t remember where I got all this stuff from.

With my MP3431 version I don’t get visible flickering. I use it ultrasonic mode, I haven’t tested the other modes (not automatic). Loneoceans used this mode so I just went with it on mine too.
I didn’t get much testing time with my TPS version before I popped it by shorting LED cables. I have not built another one yet but I will soon enough, I can report my results.

Oh yeah good idea.

We should ask Simon/Convoy to offer the brass buttons in his store. I’m sure he can find a cheap source.

Congrats Mike! Great works as always!

Yes USM is better for this, as current decreases it decreases the frequency until 20KHz after that it uses forced conduction mode if the current decreases further, the efficiency is not as good at low loads but there is no issue with flicker, also no risk of audible noise (as the name implies)