Good work on that! I don’t really get into gaming too much… I didn’t even know these existed. I’m guessing Nintendo is just continuing to ride their trend of releasing limited retro stuff like the mini NES and SNES. Reminds me of a portable version of my RetroPie setup.
Absolutely, they’re incredibly good at milking every penny out of their successful franchises, but here I am buying into it. LOL! Grossly overpriced compared to the small army of portable emulation handhelds out of China these days, but there was something about a N branded device i couldn’t resist. Add to it that almost immediately there was a challenge factor of a fairly difficult mod and I was hooked.
Put 3 x XPL-Hi 4000k from kaidoman in my brass fw3a. Theyre a little greener then the 5d xpl-hi, but they are rosier then JA3 sst20 4000k. Defintely very happy with them since it had 6500k xpl-hi bc it was all i could get at NG, because i wanted the brass.
Okay, so I didn’t mod it today, but a long time ago - however I finally own a luxmeter. It’s a LX1330B so it shouldn’t bee too inaccurate.
I measured 157(*100) at 5m, which according to my math comes out to 392,500 cd? From searching for my post on the mod, I saw someone mention Z1s with W1s get 375-400kcd so that seems about right. I’m quite pleased with myself!
Anyway it’s a good start. But, I will have to go outdoors if my next build goes as planned, because the meter maxes out at below 2.5mcd…
I live in a small city appartment but there is one line (from the windowsill in the living room through the hall onto the front door) that allows a measurement at 13.35 meter, so up to 36 Mcd I’m good 
Hmm I can get 8.28m in my house, so just over 6.8Mcd. Still have to go outside for the next build… My meter will only read to 999*100, I think…
Okay I got it out and I was incorrect. It will read to 200,000. So at 5m I can measure 5Mcd and at 8.28m, 13Mcd. Hopefully my next build (well, build series, I have a few sizes of fresnel lens) will still send me outside but we will see!
I couldn’t resist and made another triple Optisolis S2+, this time in 4000K. My other 2 are 6500K and 5000K.
Same set-up as the others, host from Kaidomain, driver from Convoy, LED board from Adventure Sport Flashlights, spacer from Mountain Electronics, and Nichias from Virence.
Reflowing the Optisolis LEDs onto the board was very easy and they centered right up. I used a little more than usual soldering paste due to the big pads.
The driver needed a 470 ohm bleeder resister due to the lighted tailcap. I made a light purple tailcap by combining pink and warm white 0805 SMD LEDs. The driver retaining ring needed to be grinded down in the middle to make room for the 7135 chips.
And again I used a Carclo 10511 frosted narrow spot optic and frosted 1 side of the lens.
There are plenty of lumens, it has some throw, the beam is excellent, the tint is very good, and of course the CRI is amazing.
I also got a little creative with my Optisolis flashlights and matched the lighted tailcaps to the color of the hosts. And in case you are wondering, here are the measurements for the switches at 4.1 volts: blue = 0.15 milliamps (2.7 years), light orange = 0.33 milliamps (1.2 years), and light purple = 0.15 milliamps.
Note to self: copy this man. I would like, but don’t have, both an Optisolis light and a purple tail cap… The more purple, the better.
Nice mod NuetralFan 
Beautiful lights, NeutralLights!
NeutralFan, I’ll say it: I envy your clean works!!! 
Besides getting a beautiful result, it is clean!! Well done 
Thanks for all the nice comments! 
wow great work on the S2+’s they look excellent
Sofirn IF25A with XPL-HI V2 5D 4000K.
It looks warmer compared to a D4V2 with the same emitters.
Just a little reflow. Installed a Lh351d 4000k into a foursevens quark. The only challenge was getting the head apart. Too much thread locker.
Modded a "D10" headlamp, summary:
- LH351D 3500K, 95 CRI, from Simon, on a 20 mm SinkPAD II
- used a Quadrupel custom driver FET+1 PCB, reflowed the parts
- the Quadrupel driver include 2 added switch LED's that light up behind the green rubber which lets just enough light through
- used a Carlco ~30 deg frosted wide spot bought from LEDSupply (part #10140) - it's a perfect fit height wise, needed some sanding down on the outer edge to fit
Parts, stock and new:
Sanded down the shelf, removed most of the anodizing, smooth to 2000 GRIT:
Stock driver:
New driver, used a SIR404DP FET (no need to go any better). The resistor marked 103 is the 10K resistor for the switch LED's:
I got a ton of these switches in various heights, so found one matching the stock switch height. The LED's are white - figured the green boot would make it green anyway:
This is the charging board. Quadrupel did a great job designing this driver for a perfect fit, and retaining the stock charging circuit:
Backside of the charging circuit board is the batt+ spring, leaving it stock:
The Carclo frosted wide spot, though it's XM size, the tight fit of the optic (sanded down to snugly fit), and the tight fit of the MCPCB should get the LED centered well.
The assembled driver. Just had to solder the 2 stock wires from the charging board to the driver. Again, Quadrupel did a great job accommodating the charging:
Fitting worked out about perfect:
MX-4 and sanded the SinkPAD II smooth (it needed it), dremel'ed down the corners of the MCPCB slightly to fit tight. All cleaned up:
All assembled and working, in OFF with switch LED's on max:
Moon level, switch LED's on low (visible in the dark):
The Wurkkos HD20 strap fits this perfectly, and can adjust the tilt angle. Much better than the stock strap:
On a 35E, it does 5.75 amps on turbo, which is fine - I don't need lots of power for using this on the bench. Standby drain is 180 uA with the switch LED's on max.
Ohhh - of course it's running Anduril 2 
I will let The Beatles say it for me: “It’s a clean machine”.
Yep, very clean indeed :+1:
Perfection 
Hint: To remove “anodizing ” use a drain cleaner and cotton stick