freeme, I’ll try to give you some help on this, so that the efforts making this flashlight “real” don’t become more undermined by situations related to the manufacturer or the seller!
Also, with all the respect, you are an experienced member here and from the photo and from other indications given along this thread you can notice that some things need to be corrected as they do not correspond to the truth or what you/us see.
So, please check:
- Emitter: 3 Cree XP-L HI / Nichia 219C / SST20 LED / XP-G3
- Flux: ~2800 lm (XP-L Hi)
- Switch: Electronic side switch with a back up light
Others: Magnetic tail cap, reverse stainless steel body clip
The less “noise” we create about the lights to be done, the smoother the process will go!
I have made the necessary updates, and we are awaiting for final test results from LT. We could ensure that all specifications will be clearly presented and vetted before we proceed with our preorder.
Thanks for making the updates freeme
I guess that way it will be more transparent for people that are interested in this flashlight! We know that other specs are yet to be confirmed, but at least the ones I indicated were in need of correction.
About the GITD cigar grip, I am not a fan, I will be honest!
I’d be happier with a deep carry pocket clip such as the one made for the FW3A, that many other members also mentioned here.
If my light needs electronic lockout in my pocket, it has failed as a pocket carry. I’m unwilling to bother with remembering to both lockout and unlock a light every time it’s in/out of my pocket, and worry about the consequences if I forget to do so, when exist alternatives that do not require such diligence. And personally I consider a “pocket burn” a rather severe consequence for something as simple as forgetting to quadruple-tap my light when I put it away.
I would use electronic lockout for storage in a bag or something, but at that point it’s just as easy to do a physical lockout on most lights (FW3A being a notable exception).
You can also just turn the head a bit so it doesn’t activate. I’ve had my FW3A since they first came out and carry it regularly. Never once has tapping the button four times(literally takes less than two seconds) to unlock/lock the light ever bothered me.
4 clicks on and off bothers me…
so I have 3-click lock and unlock. This is not only faster but my fingers tend to make mistakes when fast clicking a number of times, so this is more reliable as well.
I also have autolockout, so I rarely actually 3-click lock. So instead of 8 clicks back and forth I use 4. Or 3 because I sometimes twist-untwist the tailcap to turn off and lockout. As much work as a physical lockout, but
I still have aux LEDs that act as locators and voltage check
I can access momentary hold-to-moon and click-hold-to-default I can often use the light without even unlocking it
Fair enough :laughing: just 6500k for me is worse, why size is the mcpcb? Why can’t xpl-hi “fit”?
Single sided DEEP CARRY pocket clip is definitely my preference too. Interface can be the same as the FW3A, I too suffer from pocket activations on my FW, burnt 3 of my pockets out, luckily not my leg, so a firmer button press would be greatly appreciated if it can be done during production.
