What did you mod today?

Sofirn C01S Colours

Just a little reflow. Installed a Lh351d 4000k into a foursevens quark. The only challenge was getting the head apart. Too much thread locker.

Modded a "D10" headlamp, summary:

  • LH351D 3500K, 95 CRI, from Simon, on a 20 mm SinkPAD II
  • used a Quadrupel custom driver FET+1 PCB, reflowed the parts
  • the Quadrupel driver include 2 added switch LED's that light up behind the green rubber which lets just enough light through
  • used a Carlco ~30 deg frosted wide spot bought from LEDSupply (part #10140) - it's a perfect fit height wise, needed some sanding down on the outer edge to fit

Parts, stock and new:

Sanded down the shelf, removed most of the anodizing, smooth to 2000 GRIT:

Stock driver:

New driver, used a SIR404DP FET (no need to go any better). The resistor marked 103 is the 10K resistor for the switch LED's:

I got a ton of these switches in various heights, so found one matching the stock switch height. The LED's are white - figured the green boot would make it green anyway:

This is the charging board. Quadrupel did a great job designing this driver for a perfect fit, and retaining the stock charging circuit:

Backside of the charging circuit board is the batt+ spring, leaving it stock:

The Carclo frosted wide spot, though it's XM size, the tight fit of the optic (sanded down to snugly fit), and the tight fit of the MCPCB should get the LED centered well.

The assembled driver. Just had to solder the 2 stock wires from the charging board to the driver. Again, Quadrupel did a great job accommodating the charging:

Fitting worked out about perfect:

MX-4 and sanded the SinkPAD II smooth (it needed it), dremel'ed down the corners of the MCPCB slightly to fit tight. All cleaned up:

All assembled and working, in OFF with switch LED's on max:

Moon level, switch LED's on low (visible in the dark):

The Wurkkos HD20 strap fits this perfectly, and can adjust the tilt angle. Much better than the stock strap:

On a 35E, it does 5.75 amps on turbo, which is fine - I don't need lots of power for using this on the bench. Standby drain is 180 uA with the switch LED's on max.

Ohhh - of course it's running Anduril 2

I will let The Beatles say it for me: “It’s a clean machine”.
Yep, very clean indeed :+1:

Perfection :slight_smile:

Hint: To remove “anodizing ” use a drain cleaner and cotton stick

Thanks! Didn't get a chance for beam shots but the beam and tint are about perfect for using for bench work. The beam has a center spot but is wide and blends softly with the flood area. The 351D 3500K doesn't look as warm as it does in a SMO reflector light. There seems to a difference in the tint when looking at the beams of this light vs. a modified NE01 with the same LED - the NE01 has more yellow.

I gotta buy more of these: 351D 3500K at Simon's

You inspired me to start working on my D10 Tom. I have the zoomie version with led-lenser style zoom-TIR, so it looks a bit different, with a mini-MCPCP on a short pillar. The aim is just swapping the ugly purple 10kK XP-G2 knock-off with also a 3500K LH351D, the user interface and limited output is pretty ok for me. Will likely also stick to the stock mini-MCPCB but I may go for copper (but that is real work: adapting the size and thickness of a 10mm VoB board).

Opening up the front was quite a task, the TIR scews in and out but is secured by a press-fit aluminium ring that took quite some heating up with a blowtorch (careful not to melt the TIR) before it gave in.

Wow, that's a small MCPCB. Are you gonna slice the 351D? I didn't do mine because I want a wide hot spot.

Sounds like you were lucky with the blowtorch.

Quadrupel's custom driver made all the difference. In my original D25 mod, I wired in a ATTiny85, but now seeing how smoothly this went, I'm gonna replace that mod with Quadrupel driver. I got a bunch of the bare PCB's and one more D25 (Sofirn) and another D10 on order for like $14 shipped from Ali. I don't have the zoomie version though.

Unsliced, the stock led gave slight artifacts, my guess is that with a large die that becomes less, hopefully. And indeed, a headlamp needs a good flood, the throw is a helpful bonus but extreme throw is not needed (got extreme throw covered already with other lights).

I’m not a driver guru, not in skills but also not in my needs, as long as the driver has some useful modes and does not have horrible pwm, I’m fine.

That may be why I couldn’t open mine. :person_facepalming:

Finished the mod, just swapped led with a 3500K LH351D, glued the PCB back in place with AAA and pressed the alu ring in again. The beam is still far from perfect, not in flood, not in spot. But the tint makes this now a very pleasant headlamp for someone who is not a snob, also because of the charging port. I have some protected NCR18650B cells somewhere, with these it is a nice gift for a camper.

What i wanted to mod today
changing the Led will be a feat without destroying everything on this bad Nitecore tube pcb

Go for it :smiling_imp:

What is bad about the pcb?

The anod is welded together with a small resistor and lot of blow
Previous image was enlarger,working space is small for the point of my 60W Iron solder
otherwise I cut Led :)?

Afer the use I found slight unscrewed the pill on my s2+, could have as a consequence bad pressure of the mcpcb on shelf surface.I added another retainer ring(also right washers should be fine)take from a junk light that now lock the pill.It also secured by the pressure of battery tube.

If you like this hobby enough, get a hot air station. Getting components onto and off boards is a breeze with it.
Or, a smaller soldering tip from Aliexpress.

Either way, this sounds like a cool mod.

Hey Sari33, I’d recommend taking the extra retaining ring out of the S2+ head. Normally the head screws onto the body (battery tube) until they meet. There should not be a gap between the head and the body. The body does not need to touch the driver retainer ring.

Where there should be a gap is at the tail. That’s where the body touches the switch retaining ring or housing and allows the flashlight to be locked out by slightly turning the tail.

Or maybe I’m not understanding your issue.

No,sorry maybe the barrier languages.
First I tightened the pill then I put the retaining ring, this because I founded the pill a little unscrewed last time and now Is secure pressed.

IFAIK there has bever been a retaining ring on the head side of a Convoy S2+…
In the head-combo you’ll find in that order:

O-ring (rather thin green GITD)
glass lens
reflector
centering ring
pill

This should be enough to press the pill in with the body.
Maybe you should consider using a thicker O-ring.

As already stated, there is a retaining ring IN the pill, that does NOT touch the body.

I turned the diffuser into anti-glaring hat for a bicycle flashlight, which is to prevent dazzling people from the opposite direction. It didn’t look very nice, but it works.