FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

Anduril User Interface Manual: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril-manual.txt

First check if your light is in "Muggle Mode":
NOTE: Muggle mode is remembered even after changing the battery.
Click 6 times from Off to enter or exit Muggle Mode.


To "Reset Factory Defaults" (may not work with older versions of Anduril):
NOTE: you may need to recalibrate temperature after resetting factory defaults.

Method 1: (for FW3A type lights with an inner control signal tube)
13 clicks while off but hold the 13th click until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.

Method 2: (for other lights unlike FW3A type lights without an inner control signal tube)
Disconnect power by loosening battery tube and then hold the e-switch while reconnecting power until the lights output is stable indicating that the reset has finished.

was in muggle mode! Thank you. I want to buy another one of these. Love the light. Thank you!

Hey folks someone here may know the answer to this, I have a FW4A and want to know if the different size battery/body tubes from a FW3A can be used on my FW4A? There are heaps of listings for FW3A body tubes and I have not been able to specifically find FW4A ones. So I thought maybe as they take the same size battery (flat top 18650) that tail caps and bodies are interchangeable? Can anyone confirm this? Thanks

I know my FW4A hates button top cells, actually I think you’d do damage trying to use one screwing the cap all the way down. They tooo long.

You can use some button tops if you remove the + spring, but its not a guarantee. Some are still too long

Yes the body and tailcap are exactly the same between the two lights. Only difference is the head. So that means all the different bodies(18350, 18500, 18650) clips, and custom buttons that work on the FW3A will work on the FW4A.

Thanks a bunch all i could get from the China sellers was the fw3a tube is for the fw3a. Now I can order some parts.

Mine stopped working today. Removed the battery to recharge, placed it back, it blinked , and nothing.
Was a daily used light this year, and I really like it.
Tried to reset it, nothing.

Were should I send it to get fixed? It was bought here in the group buy.

Sounds like the common issue experienced with these lights. Have you read through this thread? Most of the time it is a matter of loosening the head and tightening the tail. Then retighten the head. Also clean and tighten the retaining ring (s) with alcohol. Clean all contact points where the tubes meet tail and head. Make sure you haven’t gotten into muggle mode . If yours is one of the later ones, try a reset.

Sounds like your switch isn’t making contact. Try what Penzzy said. Loosen head, tighten tail, then tighten head.

You can verify if the switch is making contact by removing the head and using a digital multimeter like in this vid. https://youtu.be/kjtaQI4XDYs
You may have to play with the tightness of the tail to get it working. Then attach the head. It can be a bit finicky getting the torque right.

It’s not financially feasible to ship it off. Shipping would cost the same or more than the light is worth.

Did what you both suggested an still nothing.

The multimeter, when doing the tail swith test, does buzz, showing that has continuity(?).
When measuring the head, it shows 1.69mA.
When fidling with the proves, the light momentarily ramped, but I couldn’t replicate it.

Shipping to the USA, would cost me 8€.

USA to Portugal would be about US$15 for 8 ounces and about US$25 for 15-1/2 ounces.

https://postcalc.usps.com/Calculator/MailServices?country=10362&ccode=PT&omil=False&dmil=False&mdt=4%2F24%2F2021&mdz=12%3A29&m=6&dvi=33&p=0&o=15.5

Remove the pocket clip and try what pennzy said again. Also, are you using a unprotected flat top cell?

When talking about shipping, I was referring to Portugal to China insured for any type of warranty work. I know USA to China is about $35 USD minimum. So you are talking about sending it to the USA to get someone to work on it? Did you have someone in mind? That could be feasible depending on what is wrong with it and what they would charge.

If you think the driver is bad and it’s not a contact issue (and you can solder) you can replace the driver. I could of sworn replacement drivers were available pretty cheap, but I can’t find that info right now. Maybe someone can show where to get it.

I kind of still suspect a contact issue since it ramped once. You can try cleaning the black inner tube ends. Aluminum tends to oxidize over time. You can try a different length battery as well, if you have one. Loosen and then tighten the retaining rings. Tighten the head different amounts. I would try whatever I can. Sending it away would be the last resort.

I am using a flat top samsung 30Q. Removed the pocket clip, and still it doesn’t turn on.

Cleaned the light thoroughly, with alcohol, and nothing.

I don’t have the knowhow nor tools to fidle with the light. Probably contacting Lumintop will be the next thing to do.

Driver retaining ring loose?

Don’t know what that is. Is there a picture of it?

I’m sure someone can readily post a picture, but its a thin silver ring that threads into the head and keeps the driver tight. If it comes loose and backs out enough it cab prevent the head from tightening enough to make contact with the signal tube.

There’s also been a few times where the ring got loose and the driver got pushed off center and caused it to not make good contact with the inner tube. So just make sure the driver is centered and then tighten down the ring. Sometimes loosening the ring and retightening can fix a contact issue.

Thank you both for the help and the patience to assist me. :+1:
It was the loose ring. It’s all right now.