【ツ】Wurkkos TS30 + TS30S Sales Thread - available on wurkkos.com, Amazon & AliExpress

custom fees outside EU would make it not worth while sadly…

I did not experience that. Mine came without taxes or any issues

Looks like the coupon code for the TS30S - Amazon US is not working now. I passed it on to a friend and he is getting a message that the promotional code is not valid. Any chance of a new code?

Btw, I am quite happy with my TS30S.

Update [04/12/2021]

New code for TS30S on Amazon US, see updated OP.

Getting: The promotional code you entered has expired.

New coupon code, see updated OP. :-) If you take the additional 10% off from Amazon, you should get a price around $ 85.

Excellent - thanks so much!

Update: Wurkkos TS30S is now being promoted on Amazon DE, see updated OP.

is there any disccounts for the ts30s?

I realize I'm late to the party, but for $60 for a legit Anduril SBT90.2 light of decent quality, it's hard to resist. I can't believe no one posted lumens or throw measurements here on BLF, but they are measured here: https://1lumen.com/review/wurkkos-ts30s/

But this is what I got, stock light, on a fully charged old (better) 40T:

Tail amps: 26.1 A (nice!)

Lumens, maukka calibrated PVC light box: 5190 at start, 4460 at 30 secs

Throw taken 1-2 mins after cool down of the 30s lumens test, 2 sec pause/delay: 234 kcd (967 meters)

The 26.1 amps on a 40T is quite high, but there's a brass contact for the batt+ end, and the tail clamp DMM measurement is taken with the tailcap off, so the spring is taken out of the loop.

In theory those high amps should have translated in better lumens, but this light doesn't seem to have AR treated glass for one thing, but does appear to be well focused for throw. Also the tail spring, though doubled up, still can't compete with a bypass. So I'd say adding a bypass and replacing the lens with an AR one could bump it up 10% or so, maybe. Better, but hard to to negate the 30s drop.

I should do a tear down on this light, upgrade to A2, check the thermals (MCPCB mount), and perhaps bump up the LED wires. This is a quality high performing light for sure, just it's limited size and single cell will keep high amp runtimes brief.

is there discount code for TS30s for Wurkkos website? I prefer using PayPal

On the site when checking out, 10% off $65

cool, thanks.

I noticed with this light it has a nice feature of swapping outer bezels without loosening the lens or reflector. So even with the stock thin matt finished SS bezel, there's an outer band of low spill outside the spill area. But you can easily remove the SS bezel and the outer band goes away!

Actually my SS bezel wasn't so easily removable - not sure, but I might have tightened it earlier and ended up having to clamp it up in a vise with pine boards to protect the light, and use a strap wrench to get the SS bezel off :FACEPALM:

That strike bezel is pretty awesome! It also adds substantial weight, making it more effective.

The alum bezel piece alone is 10g, the stock SS bezel is 24g, and the strike bezel is 69g. The full light with stock SS bezel is 246g, least on my scale which has been pretty accurate.

Mods on the TS30S completed:

  • add 20 AWG bypass to tail spring
  • replace stock 18 AWG LED wires with high strand, high temp 18 AWG (Turnigy quality) - length is the same since they are as short as could be
  • sand down machine marks on shelf surface (stock condition not so bad really), sand smooth the MCPCB -- to 2000 GRIT, new MX-4
  • replace stock glass (no coating?) at 51.6 x 2.15 mm with UCL/p at 51.8 x 2.25 mm - fit well with stock o-rings, no changes needed
  • flash at/near latest of Anduril 2

New numbers:

Same fully charged old (better) 40T at 4.21V:

Tail amps: 27.5 A (was 26.1 A)

Lumens, maukka calibrated PVC light box: 5636 at start, 4742 at 30 secs (was 5190 at start, 4460 at 30 secs)

Throw taken 1-2 mins after cool down of the 30s lumens test, 2 sec pause/delay: 268 kcd, 1035 meters (was 234 kcd, 967 meters)

Results:

8.6% bump in lumens at start

6.3% bump in lumens at 30s

14.5% bump in candela

In theory I would expect the same % bump in lumens as candela, but maybe the UCL/p lens mad a difference in the optics, maybe slightly thicker put more pressure down, getting the LED further in the reflector. I was hoping to see more like 10% in lumens, but hard to speculate differences between the spring bypass and lens. The stock lens could have been better than most, if it truly was untreated - it had no noticeable tint to it.

Hot air to remove the springs, cleaned up the PCB to remove the excess stock lead-free solder using solder wick:

20 AWG bypass to replace the inner spring, reflowed the spring back on with solder paste:

UCL/p installed, strong purple tint as they all have:

Before:

After. The new 18 AWG wires have a thicker coating and higher strand count:

Driver, classic FET+1 (BLF Q8, D4, etc.) plus charging:

A very nice MCPCB - 30 x 2 mm:

Wow, thanks for sharing Tom. As I get more into removing drivers of lights I never thought I would be able to (Olight, FireFlies, Emisar, etc) I have much more of an interest in these mods you do that bump the performance (changing springs, driver wires, etc). Thanks for sharing, I may start doing this to some of my throwers. Maybe the lumintop X9L and an Olight Warrior X Turbo (55mm head, Osram CSLPM1 thrower that I'm putting an sft40 in. The light seems like it could be pushed harder than it is, Definitely).

a couple short questions:

where do you get nice springs like the one you replaced with and bypassed ?

wire is so confusing to me (so many types, sizes, etc). I have 18g, 20g, etc of AWG (maybe silicone wrapped) wire from MtnE that I keep on hand. Would this help most stock drivers/lights like the wire you use? If not, where can one get this "high quality" wire?

thanks!

Actually didn't change the spring, just removed the inner, and re-used the outer. Had to end up removing the outer in order to get the inner off. Sometimes you can simply pull the thinner inner spring out, but this one was stubborn so didn't want to damage the PCB. I do have stock of s lot of springs though - bought about every batch from "Blue" for the high qual springs, but over the years also bought springs from IOS (Hank), KD, FastTech, others (long gone) sites.

For the wire, again got a good assortment from Hank, MtnE, and even BG had a good deal goin on good wire (200C rated, high strand count). I got every size between 30 AWG and 10 AWG. With wire, you have to be careful - if you want more/max amps, go with the biggest wire you can fit - be sure of clearances on the MCPCB of course - some tricks to lower the solder joint height included hammering down, adding flat extensions to go wide, etc. Clearly 22, 20, and 18 will be the most popular sizes we use.

Ohh - to get the driver out, had to use the solder pick tool and hammer it a few times to break the glue seal - was glued in quite well -- made no damage to the driver, kept the pick tool out wide to the edge of the driver, no components in the way.

I got my TS30S on sale a few weeks ago for <$60 with a battery since the coupons stacked. Anduril 1 now feels like aN old relic with all my other lights upgraded to anduril 2.

I took my TS30S apart with the main intention of getting the very useful momentary turbo of Anduril 2.

I got the driver out by cutting a bamboo skewer and using it to push the driver out through the MCPCB holes. I didn’t think to angle them towards the outside, a good tip I’ve just learned from reading Tom E’s post, but luckily I didn’t damage any components.

I did swap in a BlueswordM spring because I didn’t like the look of the old ones with a bypass on the outside and wanted to have some fun with my mini hot plate.

I also did my most challenging bit of micro soldering to date, adding two 5k1 resistors to the type C connector’s pins to enable C-C charging. This took me ages get right because I had to figure out the pinout of this weird 12 pin type C connector and soldering the resistors was really difficult. I don’t have a microscope or a magnifying lens so I ended up having to go with trial and error to ensure that the resistors were soldered to the right pins.


The stuff that ttrev3 manages to do is all the more amazing to me after the struggles I went through with this project. I thought I was pretty good at microsoldering since I’m pretty confident with 0402 components but the tip of my 0.4mm bent chisel felt like a large screwdriver next to these tiny little type C port pins. woohoo C-C charging now working!

The TS30S has very large holes in the MCPCB so this has become my first light ever that I’ve managed to squeeze 16AWG MCPCB wires into.

This is also my first sbt90.2 light so I decided to try a de-windowing. I left the adhesive on since it’s only cosmetic and I didn’t want to accidentally break this $30 LED since I’m rather clumsy.

Bonus:

I tweaked anduril 2 to remove the mcu slowdown at low modes in order to get an even dimmer moonlight mode so I can look directly at the die of the sbt90.2. Those bond wires are so thin!

I did some current measuring and managed over 28.3A right at turn on with a new ish 30T and 27.8 with a newish 40T.
I don’t have comparable measurements from prior to modding because I had been using a fairly long strand of 16AWG wire to do all my current measurements and had only been getting 22-23A. I don’t know how much of that 5A improvement is from the increased thickness of the MCPCB wires vs how much is from my halving the length of the 16AWG wire I had been taking amperage measurements with.

I am now noticing a donut hole which is weird because I did nothing to change the height of the led… hmm maybe removing the lens changed the apparent height of the light source? Anyone else see a donut hole in their TS30S’s beam?