Yes 
That’s why I asked him again to be sure 
is it possible that he can think about other high current spring, no this one which Funtastic mean?
I think he got it straight.
I have the m21a with cslpm1 6a, and for the price (or any price) it is one of my most impressive smaller lights - amazing performance and value. But it’s not pocketable and I have tried, and I pocket carry the copper KR1, but the 44mm head is just too big with the length of the m21a. So given that, I would say the m21b would be the best if you are trying to pocket carry. Or, I have heard great things about the s21b with CULPM1 6a driver, I pocket carry the s21b with xhp50 and deep carry clip with no problems. I am hoping Simon does the s21b with cslnm1 at some point too.
@PiercingTheDarkness
I ordered this configuration but I have one more question. Will be LG HG2 too strong for this flashlight and I should take Samsung 30Q or should be good too? As I think Sony VTC6 is too much?
Sorry, I don’t have either of those to know. I have used the same configuration in the L21A using a Samsung 40T and it was only 8.4A which is fine. I think the driver may have a limit at just over 8A
Simon said me that more power won’t burn led so I think I’ll go with Sony VTC6/LG HG2 because it’s easier to get these than Samsung 30Q.
I will be running 30T & 40T batteries so will let you know if I have any problems with the high drain cells. Just got all my gear so will put it all together tomorrow.
later
I couldn’t get higher than 8.4A I think with a 40T. The driver must have an 8A limit.
Received my new order from Simon and they no longer have a bypass but a good high current spring. Finally they’ve exhausted their old stock
I’m very happy with a cheap Convoy M21a with Osram led. I chucked it in my cart as it was so cheap like $25au & it’s kinda shocked me how good the fit & finish on it is. Really smooth precise threads etc. 4 mode UI is a bit funny but ok when used to it. Pretty much as good light as my Olight Warrior-X-Turbo that cost 5x the price despite being heavily discounted. Only thing about the M21A compared to the C8’s is I can’t seem to find remote pressure switch’s for them, where they are sold everywhere for the C8. I think the M21A would be a great rifle light but can’t seem to find the remote switches sadly which is a shame.
I’ve been off for a while and also haven’t yet delved into Convoy lights at all.
How does the C8+ compare to the GT mini and FT03 which are both typically available for around $30 with codes?
Make one. Ask Simon for a spare tail cap and get a remote switch, easy as. I only use the C8+ since the M21A won’t fit the standard 1 inch rings
I’m want to get a couple of these factory C8 customs, they sound awesome! Just one question kiwi, my M21A has Osram CSL’P’M1 emitter (which I really like) is this much different to the CSL’N’M1 that you recommend in these C8 builds? Do you have an idea what the difference would be? Thanks
Great advice I shall. Does Simon have an account here or contact him through Convoy store?
Roughly the same range, the NM1 is just narrower and runs at 5A max. The PM1 is running at 8.4A (depends on the battery). The PM1 is preferred since it’s a more neutral tint and wider beam, whereas the NM1 is quite cool with a hint of blue. Both are used in my hunting comparison video titled Osram C8+ V1 & V2.
I install dual springs into the remote switch, but it knocks back 300-400 lumens due to resistance. The NM1 is superior in this case with only a 50 or so reduction. Remote switch can’t do much over 5A-6A
@Rat
Have you tested it?
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I will get Funtastic build tomorrow and can’t wait to test it. Bought 2x Samsung 30Q to have the same like Funtastic have.
If someone want buy there is a link to Simon store.
Got flashlight today. Hope Simon will change his boxes in future because after trip from China to Poland my box was crushed, he could even sent it only in bubble envelope with same result. Unlucky flashlight came with chipping on body.
Should the spot looks like that? I mean “more light down”. I know it’s thrower but want be sure if it’s not something wrong with flashlight what I can correct myself without high skills.
What model and led is that?
This is common for the PM1 Osrams. They use a rectangular die and unless they are absolutely perfectly centered they seem to create an unbalanced corona. With a bunch of patience and attempts at loosening the bezel, spinning the reflector and or centering ring, and re-tightening, you may get it to and where you want it.
Another, thing to consider is the screws holding down the mcpcb. Simon (and everyone else I’ve seen) use flat head screws which cause the mcpcb to tighten into a predetermined position, which is often not dead center. Using pan head screws allows you to position it with enough freedom to hit center.
My process that usually works is to loosen the screws, run the light to thin out the thermal paste, tighten the bezel, let the light cool in the refrigerator to thicken the paste, and then quickly but carefully remove the bezel/ reflector and tighten the screws a little bit at a time to keep everything even and in place.