EagleTac D25A Ti 2014 First Impressions

LED Flashlights – General Info 1 x AA / 1 x 14500 Flashlights
4

You’ve got two complete cycles (6 clicks) from off before hitting the blinkies, but at any point before the 7th click, just soft press and you go back to the start.

Chris

5

Looks much better than my 2015 version :+1: .

Moon mode is modulated. Sinewave, approx. 11ms phase, about 90 Hz. That’s what it looks like. Can’t measure mid already. Opple LM3 reads 4000 Hz, but the data looks suspicious. I think it is much more. That’s for the 2015 D25A, not sure if they have changed anything.

The set of blinkies is strange. Wish it wasn’t there.

6

thanks
yes, two cycles of LMH leads to 7 different blinkies :person_facepalming:
(on mine, a brief tap, not a click, advances modes)

and yes, I found a long press goes back to low…

thanks, yes, the 2015 has unballanced looking knurling…

the frequency of the circuit oscillations do seem quite fast… my camera can see them, but I almost cannot see them, I have to wave my hand really fast…

people confuse it with PWM, but I beliece ET is correct to call it Constant Current… or my unofficial names for it… Constant Flicker… or Constant Ripple… LOL

I wish I could change the LED, but 2014 are not moddable
I think 2013 was the last year for the moddable design, with removable bezel…

7

The pill is glued into the head, like with the 2015 model?

8

yes, and like the new D3A, I have read that the pill is press fit, specs say, non user replaceable glass

here is the difference:

1 Thank
9

I had mine in the freezer because thermal expansion of brass is greater. Could have made a difference, not sure. Getting that pill out was extremly difficult, but I had to try it.

10

were you successful?
got pictures?

11

Yes and no, but the 2015 pill is threaded, so maybe easier to get out.

Left: sw45k D220, right, SST-20@4000K

Crappy camera, daylight mode.

12

I’ll get my box out tomorrow, but my 2014 doesn’t look anything like your 2014 in your picture, or the 2013.

Mine looks just like this:

Chris

13

Isn’t that a (2013?) D25C, Chris?

14

I truly think it’s the 2014 and I believe it has the markings, but that’s the one I have and I love it still, after 5-6 years!

Chris

15

great to know!

so, I tried opening this D25A 2014 w XM-L, because I would love to mod to High CRI. Things did not go well…. (should have used heat?)

I got about this far, and gave up:

I coul not unscrew the pill, broke the point off some Knipex Pliers, bent the tip on some lens removers… fortunately the light still works…

Yours looks like a D25C 2014, mine is the D25A. Yours has memory, mine does not.

Here is D25A and D25C 2014 Ti:

here is the D25A and D25C 2013 Ti:

here is D25A and D25C Ti 2015:

and D25A and D25C Ti 2017:

16

I might be completely wrong, but in theory heat lets brass expanding more than titanium. You’re weakening red threadlocker on the other hand. Not sure.

In the end, it was brute force and luck that the pill didn’t broke I fear.

17

I found this thread that talks about modding the 2014 D25A

[QUOTE=nsk1979;5055195]I have replaced original driver by custom one on my D25A Ti 2014.

[/QUOTE]

I tried that and failed, should have used Heat first…

18

“Just need to know that D25A Ti’s head is glued up by something like cyanoacrylate cement and it is not softening under heating”

Ok, so now we know for sure heat is useless.

Freezer :smiley: .

19

I have both versions of Titanium D25C.

The brass pill in the newer version is not press-fit. It’s screwed in with a small amount of glue. I muscled mine out with some 3M grey grip tape and pliers.

20

thanks for confirming the pill is screwed into the head

glad you managed to get the light open

21

Hi, if it is glued with cyano (and not threadlocked), let the head soak in acetone for few days!

22

Bienvenido rio immagina :beer:

I do not know what product is used to seal the ET.

If you try it first, please share your results. :wink:

23

I don’t have a D25A, only the C versions (which open no problem from the bezel), but, if the heat or the cold don’t work, acetone is worth a try.
This is how I opened my old Bitz. Boiling the head for hours did not work, freezing it for days neither.
Anyway, I can assure you that acetone will not attack aluminum, titanium or bronze. However, beware the plastic component of the driver.
Happy modding!