Wow, that's a small MCPCB. Are you gonna slice the 351D? I didn't do mine because I want a wide hot spot.
Sounds like you were lucky with the blowtorch.
Quadrupel's custom driver made all the difference. In my original D25 mod, I wired in a ATTiny85, but now seeing how smoothly this went, I'm gonna replace that mod with Quadrupel driver. I got a bunch of the bare PCB's and one more D25 (Sofirn) and another D10 on order for like $14 shipped from Ali. I don't have the zoomie version though.
Unsliced, the stock led gave slight artifacts, my guess is that with a large die that becomes less, hopefully. And indeed, a headlamp needs a good flood, the throw is a helpful bonus but extreme throw is not needed (got extreme throw covered already with other lights).
Iām not a driver guru, not in skills but also not in my needs, as long as the driver has some useful modes and does not have horrible pwm, Iām fine.
Finished the mod, just swapped led with a 3500K LH351D, glued the PCB back in place with AAA and pressed the alu ring in again. The beam is still far from perfect, not in flood, not in spot. But the tint makes this now a very pleasant headlamp for someone who is not a snob, also because of the charging port. I have some protected NCR18650B cells somewhere, with these it is a nice gift for a camper.
The anod is welded together with a small resistor and lot of blow
Previous image was enlarger,working space is small for the point of my 60W Iron solder
otherwise I cut Led :)?
Afer the use I found slight unscrewed the pill on my s2+, could have as a consequence bad pressure of the mcpcb on shelf surface.I added another retainer ring(also right washers should be fine)take from a junk light that now lock the pill.It also secured by the pressure of battery tube.
If you like this hobby enough, get a hot air station. Getting components onto and off boards is a breeze with it.
Or, a smaller soldering tip from Aliexpress.
Hey Sari33, Iād recommend taking the extra retaining ring out of the S2+ head. Normally the head screws onto the body (battery tube) until they meet. There should not be a gap between the head and the body. The body does not need to touch the driver retainer ring.
Where there should be a gap is at the tail. Thatās where the body touches the switch retaining ring or housing and allows the flashlight to be locked out by slightly turning the tail.
No,sorry maybe the barrier languages.
First I tightened the pill then I put the retaining ring, this because I founded the pill a little unscrewed last time and now Is secure pressed.
I turned the diffuser into anti-glaring hat for a bicycle flashlight, which is to prevent dazzling people from the opposite direction. It didnāt look very nice, but it works.
Whether or not a retaining ring is used has a lot to do with the type of driver. Some, with a ring of 7135 regulators need the retaining ring to be filed out on the inside to clear the 7135ās or are soldered in place instead of modding the retainer ring.
Finally got the boards in to convert my Amutorch E3 to Anduril2 with RGB Aux LEDs. It was a very tedious mod, but after a couple setbacks I think it turned out really well. I made a custom attiny1616-based FET+1 driver and used Loneoceansās RGB Aux board for the FW3x series.