LED FOR SURGICAL GLASSES

So the driver controls how much power the batteries deliver to the LED. The driver allows you to change the light’s brightness and should manage the charge of the batteries. Just changing the led probably won’t increase the light’s brightness by much. You’ll have to change the driver as well.

I suspect, with it being an aliexpress light, that the driver and batteries are probably not very good.

It is unlikely that a readily available driver will work in that light without significant modifications. Where abouts in the world are you? Maybe someone nearby would be willing to pick this up as a fun project.

I am Italian, it is a fun project, I hope it will come true.

So there are no standard drivers and batteries that are compatible? What does compatibility depend on?

Another thing I would like to avoid is the overheating of the light, even now without i having changed anything, it heats up after a few minutes.

Exactly I don’t know how to avoid the heat, how long what do you mean?

Are there any methods to avoid overheating? What does it depend on and how can it be avoided?

From the looks of your battery pack, it’s likely 2 batteries welded together in a 1S 2P formation. The issue is that most drivers likely won’t fit into the space, and also the brightness of flashlight drivers are usually controlled by a push button rather than what looks like a potentiometer.

Overheating the LED module likely isn’t too big a deal. You probably only need 3-6w to the led for its brightness to be usable. The led pill will get hot to the touch but it won’t damage the led. It would feel pretty hot if you touch it though.

I’d do it but shipping to Canada might be a painful.
Anyone in the EU wanna take on this project?

Long story short: the host looks cheap and not made for powerful output. Have to be redesigned from scratch. And we did not saw a driver
… …

Well something like an S2+ overheats at 8*7135 but 6*7135 isn’t too bad. There’s also the fact that the driver isn’t by the led in this light so the LED tube only needs to dissipate the wasted heat created by the LED itself. 2A at 3V shouldn’t be a stretch to dissipate in a tube light. It’ll get hot, probably 40-50c but that’s not the end of the world even if you touch it accidentally.

By host you mean, the structure of the spotlight? according to my idea it shouldn’t be a big deal a simple piece of plastic to fit with stronger light and driver.

I would gladly entrust the work in your hands, you seem very experienced, but in canada, I am afraid to see the project ready in a long time.

In case no one in Europe could do it, would it be so difficult to make it on your own? Maybe I could inquire about how to build it or ask for advice, I just need to know what to buy specifically.

Led Heatsink

What kind of connector does the light plug into the battery pack with? Is the black body, where the LED is, made of plastic? If you can swap the LED pcb on your own, and there’s no extra circuitry in the LED host, I could probably make you a new battery pack with the driver included.

Or you could do it on your own. I would buy something like these DIY battery cases and connect a driver to it with an output that fits your current headlight plug. This would result in usb charging, higher brightness, and probably a longer lasting battery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33025605201.html

Except you’ve got to put a driver somewhere in line with that and premade ones are optimized for space saving. Something better quality would be ideal, but in the end it’s just a case to put batteries in.

if you mean the led with its MCPCB, I bought a new Samsung LH351D

Yes, the black spotlight is made of plastic, I am attaching a photo of the cable connection here, the wheel on the left allows on / off and the adjustment of the intensity.

In the case of the DIY battery, would the driver be inserted inside the case? in what position? Thank you

If you want more info about the spotlight this is the Link:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/4000256953900.html?srcSns=sns_WhatsApp&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=60058376112&aff_fcid=00efd62028404f18b607531ec9ac69e0-1618953888403-08680-_vWztfH&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_vWztfH&aff_platform=default&sk=_vWztfH&aff_trace_key=00efd62028404f18b607531ec9ac69e0-1618953888403-08680-_vWztfH&shareId=60058376112&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=f6caa745eee7494e894c1c733796d993

The only thing wrong is that the battery is of 3W and not 5

Yeah with the led host being made of plastic, it’s probably not worth modding. Plastic is more of an insulator and will keep the heat inside from coming out.

You could probably still run at at around 1A but I wouldn’t increase the power by much above that.

Thanks, appreciate the advice :+1:

So have I lost hope of making it more performant?

If you notice this 1000 euro Orascoptic led, it is also made of plastic

If I bought an aluminum spotlight, could it be done?

It can be modded but you can’t increase its power by too much otherwise the plastic might melt. I’d be willing to have a go at it, but chances are it’ll take at least 2 months to get it shipped to me and back unless you want to pay a lot for faster shipping.

You have to learn how to make things better. Read this forum for a month or a year to understand what is all about

I’m happy to tell you I was wrong, :person_facepalming: I was 100% sure it was plastic, but it’s actually metal, I don’t know exactly what if aluminum or steel or whatever

What was talking about about a separate battery with screws?

Yay, so there is some potential to get the heat out.

The screws bit was about making a new battery pack. I’d probably throw away the old one because it’s likely no good with Chinese manufacturers cutting margins as tight as possible.

is this risk avoided by being made of metal? or is there still a risk even with metal?

The plastic part starts from the support, from the blue arrows