FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

Sounds like the common issue experienced with these lights. Have you read through this thread? Most of the time it is a matter of loosening the head and tightening the tail. Then retighten the head. Also clean and tighten the retaining ring (s) with alcohol. Clean all contact points where the tubes meet tail and head. Make sure you haven’t gotten into muggle mode . If yours is one of the later ones, try a reset.

Sounds like your switch isn’t making contact. Try what Penzzy said. Loosen head, tighten tail, then tighten head.

You can verify if the switch is making contact by removing the head and using a digital multimeter like in this vid. https://youtu.be/kjtaQI4XDYs
You may have to play with the tightness of the tail to get it working. Then attach the head. It can be a bit finicky getting the torque right.

It’s not financially feasible to ship it off. Shipping would cost the same or more than the light is worth.

Did what you both suggested an still nothing.

The multimeter, when doing the tail swith test, does buzz, showing that has continuity(?).
When measuring the head, it shows 1.69mA.
When fidling with the proves, the light momentarily ramped, but I couldn’t replicate it.

Shipping to the USA, would cost me 8€.

USA to Portugal would be about US$15 for 8 ounces and about US$25 for 15-1/2 ounces.

https://postcalc.usps.com/Calculator/MailServices?country=10362&ccode=PT&omil=False&dmil=False&mdt=4%2F24%2F2021&mdz=12%3A29&m=6&dvi=33&p=0&o=15.5

Remove the pocket clip and try what pennzy said again. Also, are you using a unprotected flat top cell?

When talking about shipping, I was referring to Portugal to China insured for any type of warranty work. I know USA to China is about $35 USD minimum. So you are talking about sending it to the USA to get someone to work on it? Did you have someone in mind? That could be feasible depending on what is wrong with it and what they would charge.

If you think the driver is bad and it’s not a contact issue (and you can solder) you can replace the driver. I could of sworn replacement drivers were available pretty cheap, but I can’t find that info right now. Maybe someone can show where to get it.

I kind of still suspect a contact issue since it ramped once. You can try cleaning the black inner tube ends. Aluminum tends to oxidize over time. You can try a different length battery as well, if you have one. Loosen and then tighten the retaining rings. Tighten the head different amounts. I would try whatever I can. Sending it away would be the last resort.

I am using a flat top samsung 30Q. Removed the pocket clip, and still it doesn’t turn on.

Cleaned the light thoroughly, with alcohol, and nothing.

I don’t have the knowhow nor tools to fidle with the light. Probably contacting Lumintop will be the next thing to do.

Driver retaining ring loose?

Don’t know what that is. Is there a picture of it?

I’m sure someone can readily post a picture, but its a thin silver ring that threads into the head and keeps the driver tight. If it comes loose and backs out enough it cab prevent the head from tightening enough to make contact with the signal tube.

There’s also been a few times where the ring got loose and the driver got pushed off center and caused it to not make good contact with the inner tube. So just make sure the driver is centered and then tighten down the ring. Sometimes loosening the ring and retightening can fix a contact issue.

Thank you both for the help and the patience to assist me. :+1:
It was the loose ring. It’s all right now.

Awesome. Glad to help!

I’ve found that with attention to detail and a dab of maintenance, these lights are just as reliable as any other.

I’m glad you got it working.

I’ve got to point out that tightening the retaining rings was suggested right away and you said you did that. Luckily JaredM suggested it again. If you didn’t know what the retaining rings were, just ask.

Read through the FAQ, maybe I am missing it, so I’ll ask.

Pick up a new FW3A and set the temp as I have done on other Anduril lights I own. Everything seems to work well with one tiny issue. When ramping, I get one final flash/blip before it stops. If I run it for 30 secs, it appears to drop below that blip, and if I understand, it means it drops out of FET?

Basically, it drops out of FET really fast even though the light is not getting hot. When it drops, it means I have to ramp up, release the button and press again to ramp down.

Should I set the temp limit higher? And what is a safe limit?

Thanks!

I have found that these little lights sometimes need to be calibrated and max temp set more than once to get them right. Also they need to cool down completely before calibration.

Here is a post on Reddit that explains what I am seeing better than I explained. I’ve recalibrated, but it still acts the same, and I was curious if this is just the way it is.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/eg1krv/fw3a_seems_to_be_stepping_down_when_at_ramp/

It shouldn’t step down immediately but probably within 30 seconds. Try raising the max temp setting. Max is 55 if I remember correctly. Set it to whatever you can hold comfortably. The first step down and subsequent step downs will differ since the aluminum is heat saturated. As TK has stated, little lights are tough to regulate.

Thanks!

I guess I need to learn how the different drivers react. But it seems that it is working correctly.

Hey guys,

I am using the SST-20 version as a spotlight for photography.

What is the highest sane temperature limit you recommend for prolonged non hand held usage?