LED FOR SURGICAL GLASSES

Except you’ve got to put a driver somewhere in line with that and premade ones are optimized for space saving. Something better quality would be ideal, but in the end it’s just a case to put batteries in.

if you mean the led with its MCPCB, I bought a new Samsung LH351D

Yes, the black spotlight is made of plastic, I am attaching a photo of the cable connection here, the wheel on the left allows on / off and the adjustment of the intensity.

In the case of the DIY battery, would the driver be inserted inside the case? in what position? Thank you

If you want more info about the spotlight this is the Link:

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/4000256953900.html?srcSns=sns_WhatsApp&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=60058376112&aff_fcid=00efd62028404f18b607531ec9ac69e0-1618953888403-08680-_vWztfH&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_vWztfH&aff_platform=default&sk=_vWztfH&aff_trace_key=00efd62028404f18b607531ec9ac69e0-1618953888403-08680-_vWztfH&shareId=60058376112&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=f6caa745eee7494e894c1c733796d993

The only thing wrong is that the battery is of 3W and not 5

Yeah with the led host being made of plastic, it’s probably not worth modding. Plastic is more of an insulator and will keep the heat inside from coming out.

You could probably still run at at around 1A but I wouldn’t increase the power by much above that.

Thanks, appreciate the advice :+1:

So have I lost hope of making it more performant?

If you notice this 1000 euro Orascoptic led, it is also made of plastic

If I bought an aluminum spotlight, could it be done?

It can be modded but you can’t increase its power by too much otherwise the plastic might melt. I’d be willing to have a go at it, but chances are it’ll take at least 2 months to get it shipped to me and back unless you want to pay a lot for faster shipping.

You have to learn how to make things better. Read this forum for a month or a year to understand what is all about

I’m happy to tell you I was wrong, :person_facepalming: I was 100% sure it was plastic, but it’s actually metal, I don’t know exactly what if aluminum or steel or whatever

What was talking about about a separate battery with screws?

Yay, so there is some potential to get the heat out.

The screws bit was about making a new battery pack. I’d probably throw away the old one because it’s likely no good with Chinese manufacturers cutting margins as tight as possible.

is this risk avoided by being made of metal? or is there still a risk even with metal?

The plastic part starts from the support, from the blue arrows

Yes, there is still a risk of overheating with metal if you give a light too much power, but you probably won’t need that much power for this light.

The metal will help dissipate the heat outwards from the LED.

However, I would gladly entrust you with the work, but I fear it takes too long between various expeditions.

Would it be so difficult if I made it myself? or maybe entrusting some parts of the job to an electrician? would he know how to do it?

So I should buy a DIY battery and a driver. Could you recommend these two things specifically? based on the characteristics and considering the SAMSUNG LH351D WHITE 5700K HIGH CRI90 that will come to me, always avoiding the overheating factor

I think it would be fine with 1.5A, maybe 2A at most if the heat path is alright. That’s a lot of light, maybe even too much up close. The body would get hot, burning to the touch, but the LED would be fine. The problem is we don’t know what the inside looks like and the heat path might not be so good (unlikely I reckon).

I’m not familiar with the drivers available for battery operated high powered leds outside of the flashlight world. I don’t think there is much out there that would work well so I do recommend getting help from someone here.

I’d recommend a 7135 driver attiny 85 driver where you could load a modified anduril with only the ramping up and down, and solder that to a battery bank with the output connected to the 5.5mm port, which looks like what your light is using.

I would also recommend a 4000k sst-20 instead of the LH351D since the sst-20 will make red colours look a lot more accurate.

My hope is that someone in Europe will read this and be willing to mod it for you.

What might work pretty well is if you could get an adapter that plugs into usb power banks and uses that 5v dc to power a driver that is connected to your light’s dc port. You could just buy power banks to power your light

This is a brilliant idea, but I don’t think it’s done right, how would the driver fit into all of this?

Here is a link of a hypothetical adapter:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32854708579.html?albpd=it32854708579&acnt=494-037-6276&aff_platform=aaf&albpg=539263010115&netw=u&albcp=12556513086&sk=UneMJZVf&trgt=539263010115&terminal_id=f6caa745eee7494e894c1c733796d993&tmLog=new_Detail&needSmbHouyi=false&albbt=Google_7_shopping&src=google&crea=it32854708579&aff_fcid=46e5e3de20f148438268152ab1107b39-1619340156102-06676-UneMJZVf&gclid=Cj0KCQjwppSEBhCGARIsANIs4p6gI7ID8HxqMoCSXoKxk_yAvf6_wgO8Wg9cJ1j2TAARPPxOtqM2Kl8aApcoEALw_wcB&albag=120214549340&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&albch=shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&aff_trace_key=46e5e3de20f148438268152ab1107b39-1619340156102-06676-UneMJZVf&device=c&gclsrc=aw.ds

I’d try different, maybe easier approach.

Forget about using original power supply, host and LED.

Buy one of USB-C charged flashlight that works even without battery, while head of the flashlight has USB plugged in (like e,g, in some Wurkkos or Sofirn).
Chose flashlight with high CRI, Anduril, warmer tint, thrower or flooder - whatever you like or more experienced BLF members advise.

Attach mechanically head of the flashlight to original mounting, connect the lamp to power bank or AC/DC charger and test it. There’s a chance that light strength and pattern will be good enough for you even while USB powered (somehow limited in comparison to battery work-e.g. without turbo). With Anduril you’ll be able to adjust UI to your needs.
(we know only original LED type right now, not the current if I’m not mistaken? If so, it’s hard to say how much light LED gives now, with original controls).

No electric skill needed, only coming with some mechanical solution.

In worst case scenario you’ll have new nice flashlight, in best - problem solved.

as a structure of the torch the one I have is fine because it is suitable as dimensions for my use, I would just like to try to enhance this

Whatever works for you :slight_smile:
Main advantage of existing unit I see is small weight to be honest, not much more.

Exactly and it is essential that it is light, because it is something that is added to surgical glasses that are already quite heavy in themselves.

Or you could just use a modified flashlight body to hold a battery.

The flashlight body act like be a portable battery pack. I like this solution the best.

Take a Skilhunt H04RC, replace the led in the head with the correct dc port, and it’ll power your light for several hours on one charge. You just have to remember to never double click the switch and accidentally enter into turbo mode.

It has very consistent output and its non-turbo levels shouldn’t make the light become too hot.

You can buy an H04RC, solder in a dc port and even just add hot glue to glue it in. This is the easiest and best solution imo. If you find your light getting too hot, just disable the highest modes. The light even has convenient usb charging and you can always pop in a new 18650.