FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

Remove the pocket clip and try what pennzy said again. Also, are you using a unprotected flat top cell?

When talking about shipping, I was referring to Portugal to China insured for any type of warranty work. I know USA to China is about $35 USD minimum. So you are talking about sending it to the USA to get someone to work on it? Did you have someone in mind? That could be feasible depending on what is wrong with it and what they would charge.

If you think the driver is bad and it’s not a contact issue (and you can solder) you can replace the driver. I could of sworn replacement drivers were available pretty cheap, but I can’t find that info right now. Maybe someone can show where to get it.

I kind of still suspect a contact issue since it ramped once. You can try cleaning the black inner tube ends. Aluminum tends to oxidize over time. You can try a different length battery as well, if you have one. Loosen and then tighten the retaining rings. Tighten the head different amounts. I would try whatever I can. Sending it away would be the last resort.

I am using a flat top samsung 30Q. Removed the pocket clip, and still it doesn’t turn on.

Cleaned the light thoroughly, with alcohol, and nothing.

I don’t have the knowhow nor tools to fidle with the light. Probably contacting Lumintop will be the next thing to do.

Driver retaining ring loose?

Don’t know what that is. Is there a picture of it?

I’m sure someone can readily post a picture, but its a thin silver ring that threads into the head and keeps the driver tight. If it comes loose and backs out enough it cab prevent the head from tightening enough to make contact with the signal tube.

There’s also been a few times where the ring got loose and the driver got pushed off center and caused it to not make good contact with the inner tube. So just make sure the driver is centered and then tighten down the ring. Sometimes loosening the ring and retightening can fix a contact issue.

Thank you both for the help and the patience to assist me. :+1:
It was the loose ring. It’s all right now.

Awesome. Glad to help!

I’ve found that with attention to detail and a dab of maintenance, these lights are just as reliable as any other.

I’m glad you got it working.

I’ve got to point out that tightening the retaining rings was suggested right away and you said you did that. Luckily JaredM suggested it again. If you didn’t know what the retaining rings were, just ask.

Read through the FAQ, maybe I am missing it, so I’ll ask.

Pick up a new FW3A and set the temp as I have done on other Anduril lights I own. Everything seems to work well with one tiny issue. When ramping, I get one final flash/blip before it stops. If I run it for 30 secs, it appears to drop below that blip, and if I understand, it means it drops out of FET?

Basically, it drops out of FET really fast even though the light is not getting hot. When it drops, it means I have to ramp up, release the button and press again to ramp down.

Should I set the temp limit higher? And what is a safe limit?

Thanks!

I have found that these little lights sometimes need to be calibrated and max temp set more than once to get them right. Also they need to cool down completely before calibration.

Here is a post on Reddit that explains what I am seeing better than I explained. I’ve recalibrated, but it still acts the same, and I was curious if this is just the way it is.

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/eg1krv/fw3a_seems_to_be_stepping_down_when_at_ramp/

It shouldn’t step down immediately but probably within 30 seconds. Try raising the max temp setting. Max is 55 if I remember correctly. Set it to whatever you can hold comfortably. The first step down and subsequent step downs will differ since the aluminum is heat saturated. As TK has stated, little lights are tough to regulate.

Thanks!

I guess I need to learn how the different drivers react. But it seems that it is working correctly.

Hey guys,

I am using the SST-20 version as a spotlight for photography.

What is the highest sane temperature limit you recommend for prolonged non hand held usage?

80-85C. Mostly for safety of the battery.

Thank you. I had it set to 65°C but now I will raise it a bit more.

So I just got an Fw3a from a reputable seller. And it was working fine but now it is "glitching" bad. It worked fine for first couple minutes, but then i set up my thermal calibration, Temperatire, and stepped ramping guidelines. After that it has been acting glitchy. Click the button on, then click and hold and no ramp, just shuts off. Hold for noon just jumps on then back off. Sporadic output levels both hi and low. I cleaned the ends of the inner tube, tightened the tail cap retaining ring (it was actually loose) and check the head retaining ring, it's right. I loosened both the tail and head and tightened tail all the way down very tight and then the head, did that process multiple times. Using a fully charged P26a brand new molicel. Switched to a Panasonic ga and it was worse.

any suggestions? I don't want to return it. I'll change the driver if I have to. I like the color. Lol

thanks!

OK, so i just read thru the las page. Im going to remove the head and tail retaining ring, clean with alcohol, center the driver if needed, and reassemble. Ill try it tomorrow and see if it works better. I have owned 6 of these with no issues whatsoever. So Ii feel confident it will be resolved. and, if not, Lume driver from Neal it is!