I’ve bought neodymium magnets at the hardware store, and grinding the correct size was a pain, I could only fine slightly larger ones and grinding them down to fit. It once I did all of that they still never worked right.
Personally i would buy the tail cap from Hank, but it sure a couple people on here that can walk you through the process
Just got a small batch XP-L HI T6 8D LED in stock, 2800K, 90CRI, we will not put it for sale on the site,
if you like it, please order the XP-L HI V2 5D 4000K version on the site, and send us an email,
so that we can use XP-L HI T6 8D LED for the light you purchase.
I hate to ask this question, but if you have the ability, is there anyway to give an estimate lumen rating for the kr4 or d4. I will look at the CREE data sheet and probably get a decent estimate… but I am just curious, more so compared to the 5d 4000k. I feel like my 5d 4000k lights are close to as bright as my 3a 5000k xpl-hi lights. Hoping the 8d is similar too!
Hmmm, the 8D's are T6 bin, so down 2 levels from the V2 5D's, so from what I've measured, they should be lower. How much to be noticeable is another issue.
Should be lower, right? I guess I do not understand bins well, so if someone could clarify, I would appreciate it.
I do understand one letter/number combination indicates distance from BBL (or maybe both?)
T6 is a brightness bin, 8D is the chromaticity bin, you need to check the XP-L datasheet , T6 means 280-300lm at 1050mA, 8D is below the BBL. For reference kaidomain has a 90CRI XPL HI T5 7C1, one bin lower and above the BBL, so I guess this a good deal.
According to the Cree XP-L spec sheet, lowest luminosity for the 8D bin is 280 while for the V2 is 400, so looks more like 30%, in theory. I was wondering if you had measured one to make sure.