great work gchart, nicely done
Replaced Thrunite Cat6 V2 reflector with TIR Optic.
The inspiration for this mod was the result of seeing user reviews of the Manker MK37 and U22III lights with large TIR optics. I was able to find a similar looking optic on AE.
The Thrunite Cat6 V2 reflector cavity/dimensions (~ 52x29 mm) worked well for this optic, which measures 47mm dia x 29mm ht. The hardest part of this mod (or any mod where reflector or optics are involved) was getting it properly centered and focused.
Optic (slightly lowered to help focus) with DIY spacer/centering ring.
FWIW in the screen captures (see below) from BLF member andreas0401’s video review of the Manker U22 III one can see the result of this optic vs a traditional reflector, in that case using the SBT90.2 emitter. I get analogous results with the Cat6 and XHP35.
White-wall shot showing traditional reflector hotspot from U21 vs the new optic in Cat6
Screen capture from andreas0401 video illustrating this optic in the field, broader hotspot w/less defined spill (NOT the Cat6 in photos)
Unlike most mods the result was not more OTF light, just less as spill.
edited with different photos
I want to love this light, and even more so with this mod, but I just know it will never get carried over my KR4 or SC62w.
May I ask, what were the setbacks?
I bought this D25A Ti with a problem. Sometimes the light would not turn on. And when it did work, the switch was hyper sensitive and would switch modes with the slightest touch of the tailbutton. It would also skip modes.
At first I thought the issue was the switch contact ring to the body… I made sure it was clean, including removing all lube with alcohol. I even cleaned the body ring that the switch seats on, with emery paper, to remove any potentially non conductive Titanium Oxide.
The switch was still hyper sensitive, so I suspected the issue was caused by the plunger on the switch remaining partly depressed by the too tight tolerance to the rubber boot. I sanded down the switch pin, a little… it seemed to help, but the light was still unreliable. Sometimes it would not turn on.
Rather than continue shortening the switch pin, I decided to wrap the metal washer in a few layers of packing tape. This seems to have solved the problems… The switch is now not hyper sensitive, it no longer skips modes, and so far, there have been no more failures of the light to turn on.
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edit the next day:
The switch failed again, several times, intermittently
so I removed the spacer tape around the metal washer.
then
I cleaned the switch with an alcohol soak, and I think that helped.
I also wrote to ask EagleTac if they will sell me a replacement switch.
I’ve never had a Zebralight, so I won’t even begin to compare that. And while I don’t have a KR4, I do like Hank’s lights. Crazy thing though… the Noctigon KR4 and the Amutorch E3 are almost exactly the same size, but the E3 is 21700 whereas the KR4 is 18650. E3 dimensions: 95 (length) x 29 (head) x 25.4 (body). The KR4 is 98 x 29 x 24.
The difficulties / setbacks:
- The driver was designed specifically for this light and had to be fairly exact in its dimensions so that the screw holes and the switch lined up properly
- The driver cavity is very tight, no room for any extra wire or anything
- The E3 is a unibody, so everything had to be fed in through the tailcap
- The hole for the LED wires had only so much room, so I used 22ga primary wires and some very very thin 30ga Kynar wires for the aux
- When I first got it assembled, only the blue LED of the RGB aux worked
- With the ramp config on default settings, the LEDs wouldn’t turn on at the dimmest Anduril setting
- Shortly after assembly, the 7135 got stuck on all the time. Must have been defective or something. It was an extra crappy “crappy sailboat” version. Lesson learned.
- So… I took everything apart
- I updated Anduril2 for the AVR 1-Series to use phase-correct (dual slope) PWM with a 10 MHz clock instead of single-slope PWM at 5 MHz. This fixed the lowest ramp setting issue.
- I also replaced the “crappy sailboat” 7135 for a “raptor claw” 7135 that I removed from another driver.
- I then bench tested everything to make sure it worked before reassembly
- I then reassembled everything yet again, being extra cautious every step of the way, especially with those aux LED wires
- It worked!
This makes me feel better that you go through some of the same frustrations I do on mods.
And yes one thing I’ve learned for certain with 7135s, the good ones are good and the bad ones are bad.
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WOW that is Sweet to build a custom driver ghart !! :heart_eyes:
Not to take away from all these other great mods here lately. You guys are AWESOME !! :+1:
Blazing new trails and ideas. Ol Lumens would have serious competition these days. :sunglasses:
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Great build gchart. 
I’m not a fan of how bulky are the latest Hank’s 18650 lights either.
Today I adapted the GT4 handle for the Nano 
(am bored today)
Almost perfect! I’d like to see a shoulder strap though 
I guess it’s more comfortable now?
Nitecore PD EX11.2 w 219b 4500k 9080 D200 SW45k
I smile every time I see the Hot Pink tint
on 16340:
minimum 0.03 lumens
maximum 300 lumens
Good one !
I modded the state of charge of the Sony VCT6 in my FW3A today by removing the cell and placing it in my Liitokala charger.
Another nice 219B sw45k mod jon_slider! That is an amazing LED.
thank you very much for the kind and supportive words. You have very good taste…
fwiw, that Nitecore EX11.2 has an sw45k from Bob McBob. It is the most pink variant, a D200, highly recommended.
andy zhu also has sw45k, they are D220 and are nice too, less intensely pink.
in the past andy also had sw45, non k, and less pink of the three, but still has a slight pink tint, noticeable when compared to CW and Low CRI Leds whose DUV (Tint), is farther above the BBL
andy has a great variety of other 219b LEDs too…
I like the sw30 he has too, recommended.
I have the 219B sw30 D180 and sw35 D200 LEDs from azhu. They are very nice!
And I also got my sw45k D200 from Bob McBob. Agreed, highly recommended.
Have you tried the sw40 D200 from Illumn I have them in a quad Convoy M2 and I think it’s probably my favorite CCT/tint of all my flashlights. 
congrats on finding love 
I had not tried the D200 sw40, I have a D220 sw40 and I wish is was more pink… Thanks for the tip! :+1:
I do have sw35 D200 from azhu, but it is not a favorite… “too green”… lol
If you want a nice rosy 3500K, try the Nichia E17A SM353 from Eurekatronix (Virence).
Here’s the sw35 D200 on the left vs the quad SM353 on the right:
thank you for the comparison photo,
that E17a 3500k looks very nice,
I had not seen it before
and the tint looks nice for my pink preferences
what light is that in… curious about the optic