Thanks djozz, I appreciate your thoughtful comments and insight. I wish all the best to him and for all those who participate.
I would be interested in a red anodized LT1 that ramped between deep red and 4000K high CRI. I would not be interested in one with 2200K LEDs, or anything warmer than 4000K really.
Same here
Just got mine today. I am curious what type of add-on accessory people are buying to use as a handle? Just a big lanyard, or is there some other accessory that can be added on?
I made my own lanyards for the LT1 from 550 Paracord. 
Has the option of a high efficiency driver been considered? I’d be cool to have that as an upgrade option when buying an LT1. Maybe Sofirn can commission Loneoceans like Fireflies did to build them an efficient driver? That along with SunLike LEDs offered stock would truly make this the endgame lantern for me.
Does the LT1 when fully charged, the on/off button/glow switch turn green. Mine is orange and I have put in on charge for like 5+ hrs still not turned green. Charging with battery charger that was shipped by default
The button is orange by default, and will turn red when you plug it in and start charging. It will turn green when it hits termination. It does take quite a while to charge all of the way, depending on which cells you have there’s a lot of capacity and I don’t think the charge current is very high.
Anyone know if Sofirn is still doing codes for those of us that weren’t able to place orders for more than one before the world shut down?
With completely flat cells, it can take as long as 10 hours to fully charge. The charge current is only 1.5A.
Make sure the red LED illuminates under the button cover to indicate that it is indeed charging when you plug it in. The older rev driver board will not charge with a USB-C to C cable (must use USB-A to C).
I got a code about a week ago for an orange one in one of Sofirn’s threads. It wasn’t as good as the initial deal, but it was better than retail.
The cost is not worth it. It might be as much as $15+ for components alone for not all that much improvement. You’re already getting 4+ hours on high with 7 7135s.
Yes, you’d gain maybe 15- 20% efficiency at the start at most but that efficiency gain decreases as the batteries discharge. It won’t even make a difference heat wise since the LEDs are far away from the driver.
On top of that, you’d have to pay people to design the driver and much more.
Some questions that have for the thread. Is it possible to run the device off a single battery? Or two? Or three? I’m looking for ideas to reduce weight. I can see that running off of USB directly is possible. I was thinking as an alternative, if there was a cap/base that could be put on the bottom to protect the inside of the lantern, and then just dedicate a USB power bank of my choosing?
It looks like I found one of my answers when I changed the search in the thread.
This has probably been asked before, but is there a pogo pin kit I can buy to flash the LT1 with a new firmware? I already have the kit Hank sells for Emisar / Noctigon lights, so if I can use the same with another pogo pin end, that would be nice. TIA.
I can confirm it will run just fine on only 1 battery. It’s still pretty damn heavy though, I’ve just resigned myself to leaving it at home anytime weight is going to be a concern.
What is the difference between Version 1 and 2? Do I understand correctly that version 2 has an included USB C to C cable, and the Version one is USB A to C? Any other differences?
I have both, and they each came with usb-a to usb-c cables. I’ve never tried to charge either with usb-c to usb-c, but I’ll try it soon if I remember.
Hi, can someone share the latest manual PDF? The Google drive link is not working.
Also, quick question, I got 2 black and 1 orange O-ring. What is the point of them? Do I need to use them? I kind of like my light without orange, just pure black.
Hi Lux,
Has this gained any ground yet? Id still love to own a red host with 4000K & red emitters. Others would also.