I’m very happy with a cheap Convoy M21a with Osram led. I chucked it in my cart as it was so cheap like $25au & it’s kinda shocked me how good the fit & finish on it is. Really smooth precise threads etc. 4 mode UI is a bit funny but ok when used to it. Pretty much as good light as my Olight Warrior-X-Turbo that cost 5x the price despite being heavily discounted. Only thing about the M21A compared to the C8’s is I can’t seem to find remote pressure switch’s for them, where they are sold everywhere for the C8. I think the M21A would be a great rifle light but can’t seem to find the remote switches sadly which is a shame.
I’ve been off for a while and also haven’t yet delved into Convoy lights at all.
How does the C8+ compare to the GT mini and FT03 which are both typically available for around $30 with codes?
Make one. Ask Simon for a spare tail cap and get a remote switch, easy as. I only use the C8+ since the M21A won’t fit the standard 1 inch rings
I’m want to get a couple of these factory C8 customs, they sound awesome! Just one question kiwi, my M21A has Osram CSL’P’M1 emitter (which I really like) is this much different to the CSL’N’M1 that you recommend in these C8 builds? Do you have an idea what the difference would be? Thanks
Great advice I shall. Does Simon have an account here or contact him through Convoy store?
Roughly the same range, the NM1 is just narrower and runs at 5A max. The PM1 is running at 8.4A (depends on the battery). The PM1 is preferred since it’s a more neutral tint and wider beam, whereas the NM1 is quite cool with a hint of blue. Both are used in my hunting comparison video titled Osram C8+ V1 & V2.
I install dual springs into the remote switch, but it knocks back 300-400 lumens due to resistance. The NM1 is superior in this case with only a 50 or so reduction. Remote switch can’t do much over 5A-6A
@Rat
Have you tested it?
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I will get Funtastic build tomorrow and can’t wait to test it. Bought 2x Samsung 30Q to have the same like Funtastic have.
If someone want buy there is a link to Simon store.
Got flashlight today. Hope Simon will change his boxes in future because after trip from China to Poland my box was crushed, he could even sent it only in bubble envelope with same result. Unlucky flashlight came with chipping on body.
Should the spot looks like that? I mean “more light down”. I know it’s thrower but want be sure if it’s not something wrong with flashlight what I can correct myself without high skills.
What model and led is that?
This is common for the PM1 Osrams. They use a rectangular die and unless they are absolutely perfectly centered they seem to create an unbalanced corona. With a bunch of patience and attempts at loosening the bezel, spinning the reflector and or centering ring, and re-tightening, you may get it to and where you want it.
Another, thing to consider is the screws holding down the mcpcb. Simon (and everyone else I’ve seen) use flat head screws which cause the mcpcb to tighten into a predetermined position, which is often not dead center. Using pan head screws allows you to position it with enough freedom to hit center.
My process that usually works is to loosen the screws, run the light to thin out the thermal paste, tighten the bezel, let the light cool in the refrigerator to thicken the paste, and then quickly but carefully remove the bezel/ reflector and tighten the screws a little bit at a time to keep everything even and in place.
@JaredM
Thanks for reply. I think it’s not worth fixing for me at the moment, I can do more harm than good. Maybe I will try in future. If I touch led by fingers should I clean it or it wont affect the light from flashlight?
The LED can be touched but there’s no reason to. The reflector should be treated extremely carefully though. If you get dust or fingerprints on the mirror coated surface there is no way to fix that. Any attempt to clean a reflector nearly guarantees it’s further damaged. Dry compressed air (co2) is about the only safe method. When removing a bezel/reflector always do it with the lens facing down and let the reflector stay protected and contained by the lens.
I would recommend leaving it alone. Its actually not that bad.
That spot looks good to me!
@Artiet59
It’s not bad especially when it’s used like it should be-for long distances but I wasn’t sure if it’s not any issue. Now I found that even Noctigon is having “problems” with Beam on osram LED.
In real life it’s not looking exactly like on photo but still not bad.
well thats exactly it, after looking at your picture i took three pictures. They are of my Noctigon K1 with CULPM1, my KR1 with CSLPM1, and my M21a with CSLPM1. They all have the effect yours have, and the pictures are favoring them, because as i move further away from the wall the corona distortion gets more obvious. . and they all throw AMAZING in real world applications. I understand there has been some slight (and i believe unnecessary) "negativity" toward Simon and his centering of Osram LED's but i think its a little blown out of proportion too. when, like JaredM said, with the -PM1 rectangular die, it is VERY difficult to get a perfectly centered LED, and for what? to shine it at the wall? nah, leave it alone. like you said, outdoors it is fine, thats what these leds are used for. theyre not night stand lights. On the other hand, ive seen some pictures of really bad centering, but those are very few and far between. Anyone who has ever modded a light knows how difficult perfection is with some of these things.
In order from top to bottom - K1, M21a, KR1
Astrolux ea01 sst40.
@Artiet59
Thanks for photos. As everone said, it’s not for shining on the wall, it’s for throwingfar away where corona doesn’t exist.
@Tangra
Thanks for suggestion but I made decision 3 weeks ago 
I just bought this one for $26 or so and it seems to be the best Thrower for the cheapest price with a 7 amp driver and osram LED. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001110218988.html