D.I.Y. Illuminated tailcap

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MascaratumB
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Ryley wrote:

Switch convertion kit from Simon for gray and black S2+, this only works for standard 2 led switchboard, ice blue led on this one.


I guess I’ve been missing some stuff lately Silly
Nice and well done! It looks quite nice on the blue/gray version! I guess I’ll have to try one myself Big Smile
Thanks for sharing! Thumbs Up
Ryley
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NeutralFan wrote:
Looks nice Ryley. Pretty cool that Simon started offering these. Does the flashlight still tail stand?

Thanks NeutralFan. The metal switch is slightly (very slightly) protruding from the tailcap, but it can still tailstand nicely and gives cool glow effect. I’ll take a photo later.

benjamins wrote:
I spent too much time trying to assemble that together into a metal button S2 Yours was rubber button from factory, wasn’t it?

Yes, mine is rubber button S2+.

MascaratumB wrote:
I guess I’ve been missing some stuff lately Silly Nice and well done! It looks quite nice on the blue/gray version! I guess I’ll have to try one myself Big Smile Thanks for sharing! Thumbs Up

Thanks MascaratumB Big Smile

This is the convertion kit, also available for bigger light like M series and S series Convoy.

NeutralFan
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benjamins wrote:
I spent too much time trying to assemble that together into a metal button S2

I have never seen an S2 with a metal button. Did you mean an S2+? The S2 switch assembly is a lot different than an S2+.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Sunnysunsun
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How does a bleeder resistor work electrically/how is one connected?

gchart
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It’s connected from Bat+ (Pos) to Bat- (Gnd) on the driver. It provides a path for current to get to the tailcap without going thru all of the driver’s electronics (which could power up the MCU and make mode switching funky).

benjamins
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NeutralFan wrote:
I have never seen an S2 with a metal button. Did you mean an S2+? The S2 switch assembly is a lot different than an S2+.

Of course, my bad.

[Edit]: The 105C drivers now work properly with 2.2k bleeders;
Blue LEDs have the stock 330ohm,
Orange LEDs resistors have been increased to 4.7k
Both draw 0.5mA

NeutralFan
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From my experience, blue requires less than half the current of orange.

Of the 4 variety of blues that I have, the highest is 0.21 mA and the lowest is 0.15 at 4.1 volts.

I try to keep all my different color lighted switches at the same relative brightness.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

PeyoX
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Hi, does anyone have experience with H17A driver from KD nor similar problem with me? I have a problem with the bleeder resistor value, which causing the memory mode didn’t work.

I tried from 220 until 1.36K Ohm for the bleeder, and 300, 330, 15K, 22K Ohm for the led resistor (they’re stock lighted tailcap from convoy & astrolux). None of the setup that I made make the memory mode back.

For reference, no bleeder and 300 or 330 Ohm led resistor sometimes work, but no longer after that the flashlight/emitter won’t turn on. And sometimes make the emitter and tail led blinking themself.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Limited English, still working on it.

NeutralFan
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I usually start with the switch LEDs. Figure out how bright you want the lighted tailcap by trying different resistors. And I found that different drivers may require different resistors for similar brightness.

Once you determined the brightness, then see how the driver behaves. Usually the issue is that the flashlight has next memory mode, which should be resolved with a bleeder resistor. I would start with a low resistor, like 220 ohms, and then increase until the driver works well. But some drivers will continue to have issues regardless of the bleeder resistor.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

PeyoX
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Thanks for the input NeutralFan! But after trying so many times with different value, I gave up on that. Even now without the bleeder resistor and non lighted switch, the memory mode has gone. Lol

Limited English, still working on it.

NeutralFan
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Sorry to hear. Seems like you have some other issue with the driver.

Depending on what you want to do, you may want to consider a new Convoy driver that allows a lighted switch:

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

PeyoX
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Yeah, thank you for the recommendation, NeutralFan! I might change back to the 3 modes “ramping” driver from Convoy for my use.

Limited English, still working on it.

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