What did you mod today?

Nice mod NeutralFan! And always clean :heart_eyes:

Hum, to help answering jon_slider’s question about Anduril driver, would I be wrong saying that: to use a driver with that firmware in a Convoy S2+, it would need some major mods (inner tubes, eventual pill adapting, different switch, ….) to make it work, and that to use this kind of driver (FET) with those leds, it would need some “throttling” to maintain the max current on/under 4A?

Thanks for showing again :+1:

Or a piston drive :stuck_out_tongue: , which I assume isn’t much simpler to achieve :smiley: .

Anduril isn’t limited to FETs (which indeed would burn the E21As E17As) 7135s can be used for constant current, also linear FET or buck/boost.

Mike C’s B17 clicky boost driver would be more suitable, while not Anduril I imagine his UI will be much more advanced and configurable than Convoy’s, it is also much more efficient, with proper moonlight, regulation for the full battery etc… a very nice upgrade for an S2 and compatible with quad E21A/17A since those can be configured as 3, 6 or 12V.

Nice mod indeed NeutralFan.

Thanks for the correction and further information thefreeman :wink:
I wasn’t considering MikeC’s driver as it is not “comercialized” as other drivers with Anduril, but it is too an option for mechanical “clicky” flashlights!

A piston driver such would also imply some modding too so I guess that it would be no different from the e-switch in terms of work! :stuck_out_tongue:

One of my favorite lights in my collection that I will never part with got a new shorter tube to try on.

Quite awkward to hold with 18350 but I had to see. Thorfire C8S Switch, Convoy 18350 C8 tube, kiriba-ru heatsink head + his mods and spacer to turn it into ANNA-6 (not pictured), SS bezel ground down by kiriba-ru as well. It legos, not as smooth as the Thorfire tube but it works.

Wouldn’t it be great to get a constant current driver with Anduril and limit it to the current you specify?

With my E17A flashlights, I’m using a Convoy Driver for SST40 ,12groups which maxes out at either 5 or 6 amps depending on the size. I then set it to group 8 which limits the current to 50%, so either 2.5 or 3 amps.

Ideally it would be nice to go up to 4 amps, but with the 4 modes up to 50, I’m very happy with the driver and the flashlights get plenty bright. The 0.1 moonlight mode is very low and the driver accommodates a lighted tail switch without a bleeder resistor, which is also very nice.

It’s possible to specify current limit, but requires rebuild and reflash. Here’s an example of 2A configuration: What did you mod today? - #9478 by g_damian

If you change the 10mΩ (R010) resistor to 15mΩ on the 6A Convoy driver you’ll get 4A. On a constant current Anduril driver that uses a current sense resistor like lume1 or noctigon for comercially available ones, current can be changed the same way, or like G_damian mentionned by modifiying the ramp.

I have swapped emitters in my FWAA.

Now running Osram CSLNM1.TG




Recently I bought some 5A/6A Convoy drivers (17mm/20mm simple 4 mode and the 12 groups). They installed single R020 instead of the older ones with R010, I don’t know if another parts might changed too, but it still managed pulling 5-6A at the tail. So you need to make sure before changing the resistor.

great photos
great improvement in throw
congrats :+1:

If Osram could just move down to 4500K… NM1s make a great EDC beam in triples.

Thx Jon!

Oh i agree

Mine also have the R020 resistors. So it appears changing the resistor (like to R030) with these newer drivers won’t reduce the max current?

No you can :
Vsense = R * I
Vsense = Rnew * Inew
Rnew = R * I/Inew
As you said Rnew = 30 mΩ for Inew = 4A if I = 6A.

That seems way too complicated to me. :cry:

I’m fine with just having the Convoy SST40 drivers max out at 50% for my E17As.

I reprogrammed the tail in my v11r. Due to the slow pwm it screwed with the camera and i couldn’t get an accurate video representation. In person it looks like a burning ember (kind of a sped up candle flicker)

Very nice. What clip do you have on your v11r?

It’s an mcbrat clip. Some clearer pics here

What better and fast method to make the surface of the shelf lapping and remove those residual steps?

I thought first file the edges of the pill (2mm height of material) and then get to the shelf with fine sandpaper