I guess I’ve been missing some stuff lately
Nice and well done! It looks quite nice on the blue/gray version! I guess I’ll have to try one myself
Thanks for sharing! :+1:
Thanks NeutralFan. The metal switch is slightly (very slightly) protruding from the tailcap, but it can still tailstand nicely and gives cool glow effect. I’ll take a photo later.
Yes, mine is rubber button S2+.
Thanks MascaratumB
This is the convertion kit, also available for bigger light like M series and S series Convoy.
It’s connected from Bat+ (Pos) to Bat- (Gnd) on the driver. It provides a path for current to get to the tailcap without going thru all of the driver’s electronics (which could power up the MCU and make mode switching funky).
[Edit]: The 105C drivers now work properly with 2.2k bleeders;
Blue LEDs have the stock 330ohm,
Orange LEDs resistors have been increased to 4.7k
Both draw 0.5mA
Hi, does anyone have experience with H17A driver from KD nor similar problem with me? I have a problem with the bleeder resistor value, which causing the memory mode didn’t work.
I tried from 220 until 1.36K Ohm for the bleeder, and 300, 330, 15K, 22K Ohm for the led resistor (they’re stock lighted tailcap from convoy & astrolux). None of the setup that I made make the memory mode back.
For reference, no bleeder and 300 or 330 Ohm led resistor sometimes work, but no longer after that the flashlight/emitter won’t turn on. And sometimes make the emitter and tail led blinking themself.
I usually start with the switch LEDs. Figure out how bright you want the lighted tailcap by trying different resistors. And I found that different drivers may require different resistors for similar brightness.
Once you determined the brightness, then see how the driver behaves. Usually the issue is that the flashlight has next memory mode, which should be resolved with a bleeder resistor. I would start with a low resistor, like 220 ohms, and then increase until the driver works well. But some drivers will continue to have issues regardless of the bleeder resistor.
Thanks for the input NeutralFan! But after trying so many times with different value, I gave up on that. Even now without the bleeder resistor and non lighted switch, the memory mode has gone. Lol
Been a while guys… Had the itch to build something after a FEW years.
illuminated Tailcap for an Eagle Eye X7
Some low current 0805 in 3Sand orange and these only needed 222 resistor to make the 2 pairs of 3 look Just Right.
No idea where I got them, sorry.
Think its the PD68 5.3 board
Never did put a bleed resistor in the X7 driver. Fet+1 Bistro. I need to trim the nipple inside the silicone button to make sure that is not causing some click speed issues first. Trimmed 2mm already… needs more.