What did you mod today?

[g_damian]

@NeutralFan

Wouldn’t it be great to get a constant current driver with Anduril and limit it to the current you specify?

It’s possible to specify current limit, but requires rebuild and reflash. Here’s an example of 2A configuration: What did you mod today? - #9478 by g_damian

[thefreeman]

@NeutralFan

Wouldn’t it be great to get a constant current driver with Anduril and limit it to the current you specify?

With my E17A flashlights, I’m using a Convoy Driver for SST40 ,12groups which maxes out at either 5 or 6 amps depending on the size. I then set it to group 8 which limits the current to 50%, so either 2.5 or 3 amps.

Ideally it would be nice to go up to 4 amps, but with the 4 modes up to 50, I’m very happy with the driver and the flashlights get plenty bright. The 0.1 moonlight mode is very low and the driver accommodates a lighted tail switch without a bleeder resistor, which is also very nice.

If you change the 10mΩ (R010) resistor to 15mΩ on the 6A Convoy driver you’ll get 4A. On a constant current Anduril driver that uses a current sense resistor like lume1 or noctigon for comercially available ones, current can be changed the same way, or like G_damian mentionned by modifiying the ramp.

[id30209]

I have swapped emitters in my FWAA.

Now running Osram CSLNM1.TG

[PeyoX]

@thefreeman

@NeutralFan

With my E17A flashlights, I’m using a Convoy Driver for SST40 ,12groups which maxes out at either 5 or 6 amps depending on the size. I then set it to group 8 which limits the current to 50%, so either 2.5 or 3 amps.

Ideally it would be nice to go up to 4 amps, but with the 4 modes up to 50, I’m very happy with the driver and the flashlights get plenty bright. The 0.1 moonlight mode is very low and the driver accommodates a lighted tail switch without a bleeder resistor, which is also very nice.

If you change the 10mΩ (R010) resistor to 15mΩ on the 6A Convoy driver you’ll get 4A.

Recently I bought some 5A/6A Convoy drivers (17mm/20mm simple 4 mode and the 12 groups). They installed single R020 instead of the older ones with R010, I don’t know if another parts might changed too, but it still managed pulling 5-6A at the tail. So you need to make sure before changing the resistor.

[jon_slider]

@id30209

I have swapped emitters in my FWAA.

Now running Osram CSLNM1.TG

great photos
great improvement in throw
congrats :+1:

[JaredM]

If Osram could just move down to 4500K… NM1s make a great EDC beam in triples.

[id30209]

@jon_slider

great photos great improvement in throw congrats :+1:

Thx Jon!

[id30209]

@JaredM

If Osram could just move down to 4500K… NM1s make a great EDC beam in triples.

Oh i agree

[NeutralFan]

@PeyoX

Recently I bought some 5A/6A Convoy drivers (17mm/20mm simple 4 mode and the 12 groups). They installed single R020 instead of the older ones with R010, I don’t know if another parts might changed too, but it still managed pulling 5-6A at the tail. So you need to make sure before changing the resistor.

Mine also have the R020 resistors. So it appears changing the resistor (like to R030) with these newer drivers won’t reduce the max current?

[thefreeman]

No you can :
Vsense = R * I
Vsense = Rnew * Inew
Rnew = R * I/Inew
As you said Rnew = 30 mΩ for Inew = 4A if I = 6A.

[NeutralFan]

That seems way too complicated to me.

I’m fine with just having the Convoy SST40 drivers max out at 50% for my E17As.

[pinkpanda3310 (Pinky)]

I reprogrammed the tail in my v11r. Due to the slow pwm it screwed with the camera and i couldn’t get an accurate video representation. In person it looks like a burning ember (kind of a sped up candle flicker)

[Geuzzz]

@pinkpanda3310

I reprogrammed the tail in my v11r. Due to the slow pwm it screwed with the camera and i couldn’t get an accurate video representation. In person it looks like a burning ember (kind of a sped up candle flicker)

Very nice. What clip do you have on your v11r?

[pinkpanda3310 (Pinky)]

It’s an mcbrat clip. Some clearer pics here

[Sari33]

What better and fast method to make the surface of the shelf lapping and remove those residual steps?

I thought first file the edges of the pill (2mm height of material) and then get to the shelf with fine sandpaper

[djozz]

I never found an easy and good way to lap a surface inside a cavity, just tedious imperfect ways. But on some occasions when that was no problem I have indeed removed the entire edge of a pill, then it is easy to make a perfect surface.

[pinkpanda3310 (Pinky)]

Looks like that pill screws in from the front of the torch. So it relies on the ‘lip’ to stop the pill screwing in too far.

So long as you don’t completely remove that lip or the tweezer holes, it’ll be easiest to cut back the edges like you mentioned.

[andrx]

like this?

View post on imgur.com

[Sari33]

Yes,pill it’s from old C8 with glued 16mm Led…that I would mod with 3A driver + SST20 or 5A XP-G2.
At least the shelf is not concave,but have machine marks and lacks screws that hold mcpcb.
I’m afraid that the pressure of the plastic reflector isn’t enought for heat transfert,
I have also a spare Alu reflector,but it will require a 20mm mcpcb to avoid short circuit and enlarge holes cables

[andrx]

@Sari33

Yes,pill it’s from old C8 with glued 16mm Led…that I would mod with 3A driver + SST20 or 5A XP-G2.
At least the shelf is not concave,but have machine marks and lacks screws that hold mcpcb.
I’m afraid that the pressure of the plastic reflector isn’t enought for heat transfert,
I have also a spare Alu reflector,but it will require a 20mm mcpcb to avoid short circuit and enlarge holes cables

in this flashlight i have a SST40 driver 5000 Ma and a XHP50.2 3v and no reflactor because it’s a zoomie, no heat problem