WildTrail WT90 - SBT90.2 1800m+ throw 90mm 3x 21700 With Texas_Ace driver

Correct, although they also said they will be putting in an order for more silver lights that should be ready in 30-40 days, so anyone that misses out on the first batch won’t have to wait that long to get a silver light.

lol, no annoyance, just busy so can’t respond as fast as sometimes. It is all Good.

I would really like a clear one, but if they are all gone, I will take a black one.

They are making more clear lights, it will only take about 30-40 days so worst case you can simply wait for the second batch of silver if you want as well.

More light mods - adding bypasses to the carrier springs

The carrier is easy to disassemble with the right tools. Believe I got this tool kit from BG. The tips seem more precise than a cheaper set I had. 22 AWG wires shown

Here's the USB charging circuit:

22 AWG bypasses installed. I usually do bypasses internal to the spring, but with the compression these springs can get and how little interior space they have, went with outside mounts that won't interfere with compression:

Results were marginal though. Probably could have used 20 AWG wire, but didn't expect much after the more significant bump with the driver spring bypass.

I did run a test with a set of 50G cells, but stopped it after 3 minutes because of heat. Outside temp reached 57C. Took a few minutes to cool down to 41-43C, where it was comfortable to hold. I don't think I gave it enough cool down time from prior turbo tests on 40T's and 30T's. After this carrier spring mod, first tested on 40T's (results above), then 30T's and got slighter lower results than the 40T's, then the 50G 3 minute test. So in between, probably should give it 15-30 mins of cool down time, but didn't.

Comparing these results to my Noctigon K1 with spring bypasses, the K1 on a 30T measured 22.3 amps, 5410 lumens at start (about the same the WT90 does stock).

I'd have to guess the WT90 is doing about 30 amps after these spring bypasses. I don't have an accurate way of measuring lumens on a GT90, but I'm guessing this WT90 is doing better than even my spring bypassed GT90's.

For that driver bit set above, BG doesn't sell it any longer (paid $17 in Dec 2019), but here's the same kit on Amazon US. I tried a couple of other kits and this one is by far the best.

My inconsistencies with throw measurements I believe is from battery charge level and cool down time. I probably should re-charge the cells after lumens testing, wait at least 30 mins for cool down, and then turn on turbo for 30 secs before hitting the meter. But to save time, I cut corners, and not being consistent with that.

Surprisingly, even if this light feels cooled down, internally it probably is not, but after the bypasses, the roughly 30 amps generates a lot of heat, just too much for any light to handle.

So it made less throw but more lumens after the carrier bypasses?
Either way, over 1Mcd from a light this size with simple mods is very very nice! Can’t wait!

My personal conclusion from your hard work (much appreciated! :slight_smile: ) is that the WT90 does not really require any tweeking apart from checking the screws of the battery carrier. I could not measure more than 20A when I tested the SBT90.2, but I expect 30A to be already at the wrong side of maximum output, while the (likely) 20A of the stock light feels much more comfortable to me and is pretty close to max already.

Guessing that is just variance in testing conditions.

This was basically my conclusion as well when messing with the prototype. Don’t get me wrong, modding it further is cool and does provide some extra output but not something I would recommend to anyone that has to ask if they should do it.

Still, really cool to see it getting over 6k lumens in modded form! To those that like to mod that is a nice result considering you don’t have to use turbo unless you need it.

Some issues on the prototype:

  • screws in the carrier not tightened
  • switch retaining ring loose, and if tightened, activates the button
  • doesn't appear to be AR treated glass - can't notice any tint of purple, blue, yellow, etc.
  • switch LED's are 1 green (dull), 1 yellow (bright) - I do like the yellow, great if they could use 4 evenly spaced

Comments:

  • Power? Check! It's there...
  • love the light weight feel, comfortable to hold, well balanced
  • I absolutely like the look
  • very good finning
  • always wanted a power thrower in this size and the SBT90.2 is a good match. Would like to see how a Boost HX does but it needs a different driver
  • need to do more testing of USB, more runtime testing
  • Totally agree to keep it stock, but nice to see how an SBT90.2 does when pushed

Note: probably offline rest of day, another round of layoff's goin on here...

Thanks for all of this testing and break down Tom! Really appreciate the work here. Maybe post a couple pics of beam shots in the next coming days? Thanks again!

Thanks for all the testing, I have been swamped here so have not been able to give my input as much as normal.

The switch retaining ring has also been fixed since the prototype, this was another one of the things they are waiting on for final production.

The prototype is not using the final lens, they told me the 2 side AR coated glass is something they are still waiting on for production.

I had already mentioned the switch LED’s to them, they are considering options now. What does it look like with both the green and yellow connected? I forgot to test that but doubt it will be a viable option. The green being dimmer is simply due to the Vf differences between the LED’s, it would need a resistor adjustment.

Good luck with the layoffs!

TA, Tom E, can you please check my supplemental text for the manual below, especially in terms of the two LEDs integrated into the carrier? Jacky gave me some more information how these LEDs should work. However, he said the LEDs work in red and green color whereas the prototype seems to be using red and blue colors? I did get some videos as well but don't know how to make them run properly on BLF (will need to think of some way to get it done). Please excuse my miserable drawing skills but that's as good as it gets with the few information I have at hand...

Thank you guys!

I forgot the colors and blink patterns of the LED’s, I was more focused on temps and current/voltage in my testing.

With my standard USB A 3A charger I was seeing around 1.9A of current draw, guessing it needs a PD charger for higher charge rates. Voltage stopped at 4.15v and temps were good. LED’s were a side note for me as I figured they would have the details for those.

I do remember seeing a red, yellow and green or blue LED. one of them was very dim IIRC and only really visible when the PCB removed from the carrier. That might of been the yellow? Tom would be the better one to answer the question of LED color though.

Surviving so far, but I'm a contractor/consultant here, not employee... Good friend though got the notice (stay 90 days and get severance).

In the proto, all I've seen is RED and GREEN. As described earlier, 1/4 is lit up solid RED, next 1/4 was blinking 4 times (75% - 99% makes sense here), and when fully charged, the blinking RED 1/4 showed solid GREEN. Could be the proto is different from the production units?

Thank you both. So, did I get it right that one half of the ring is not lit at all? Tom, can you please check if you can use the reverse charge mode ("powerbank"), e.g. when you attach a smartphone to the battery carrier? Is there any difference in the colors and patterns? Jacky seems asleep already (CET+6 hours). ;-)

No idea what the group buy numbers are but i’m after one if there are any left.

Apologies for such a mundane question for an exciting light but can these be locked out by the tailcap?

I tested the power bank function and it worked good up to ~2A, started having some voltage sag at 2.5A so would generally stick to 2A or less. Not sure on LED colors.

Yes, you can unscrew the battery tube a bit and lock it out.