WildTrail WT90 - SBT90.2 1800m+ throw 90mm 3x 21700 With Texas_Ace driver

looks like there are 7 LED’s on that PCB actually, there are 4 in the middle and then 1 for each IC bank it appears, not sure what the smaller ones do but IIRC they were super dim and not visible through the center ring.

Tom, just realized that it seems like your going through some questionable times at work?- I hope all is well. I can imagine how stressful that is, thanks for keeping us in the loop, I’m sure your mind is on more important matters today. If I am wrong and misread your posts, then I apologize!

Thanks, survived but some who survived wished they didn't. Another sad day here... 1/3 of the biz is moving elsewhere, to NJ actually, and the remaining people/parts/assembly will move to the fab building around the corner, so they say now...

Well … Godspeed, brother . Here’s to making it another day in this crazy world

When available to sale?

Has anyone checked the parasitic drain by chance? Lockout is nice but hopefully the drain is low too. I had a Astrolux kill one of my 21700 cells.

I should be able to check the drain - will post.

The driver should be the same as all the other Narsil drivers, I didn’t think about testing the carrier though, that is a bit trickier but locking out at the tailcap would not help there anyways.

Is there LVP in the carrier circuit, or just RPP?

Good question.

edit: Just confirmed, Yes, the carrier has LVP set at 2.9V.

I’m in any color but silver would be great!

Couple of quick vid clips to show how the LED's work:

I could not get USB-C to USB-C working to charge it, so doesn't seem to support PD type charging. Tried 2 different USB-C phone chargers from a wall plug (high amps).

I measured parasitic drain through the carrier with this setup:

The red wire is 14 AWG, and all I had to do was put the DMM probes on the carrier edge and the brass driver retaining ring.

I tried measuring amps on turbo with this setup, using a 10 AWG black wire, but only recorded 20.5 amps, pretty sure it's much less than what it's getting assembled.

Parasitic drain with the switch LED OFF: 26 µA (through the carrier or not, same reading)

Parasitic drain with the switch LED ON: 9 mA

There's gotta be resistor problems with those green and yellow LED's. Didn't take a close look at it yet. The yellow is very bright, and that takes a lot of power to do. Green, as an example, takes less power to be bright. They will be changing/fixing the switch LED's in production, as TA mentioned.

Will be added to the manual.

Thanks a lot. So, it seems three out of four quarter segments will be used to indicate something. A blue LED for discharge mode, another red LED for charge mode and a third LED that flashes red while charging or discharging. The only question remaining is, if this flashing LED can turn to constant green or blue when charging is completed - or will it just turn off? Jacky told me there will only be blue and red LEDs in the final product (I guess he meant on the carrier PCB only but I am not sure).

USB-C type C to C support should better be removed from the manual after your testing. Usually, some resistors in the USB’s circuitry should be able to override device identification by any smart PD charger. The battery carrier should then be identified to not more than 5V 2A, similar to Sofirn‘s LT1 in its latest revision (driver rev. 5.0). Maybe TA can advise WildTrail to do the proper steps?

Alright, so I understood following:

There are LEDs both on the carrier and underneath the switch button. The carrier will apparently not use all LEDs that are soldered onto the PCB. I only saw red and blue LED colors which is now in line with that what I was told by Jacky. The switch LEDs seem to be using green and yellow LEDs, right? So, these show a high parasitic drain and here there will be some fixing by WildTrail.

Some more information:

  • WildTrail confirmed they will use green LEDs for the switch button and red and blue LEDs for the battery carrier in the final product.
  • Since Tom E observed that USB-C type C-C cables did not work with a PD charger I have updated that part in the manual. Tom, do you have any chance to test discharging with a USB-C to Apple Lightning cable? From my experience (Wurkkos HD20 for instance) some USB-C circuitries may not work with Apple Lightning cables to recharge iPhones or iPads. I fear we may encounter the same situation here. Not a big deal but maybe worth having a look at it anyway?
  • LVP @ 2.9V added to the manual.
  • I revised the section about the battery carrier as shown below.

Link to download the updated manual:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q3NllqgomzSABNJmdvD1XFu0kdqZ52LM/view?usp=sharing

(TA, maybe you would like to update post #002 once again.)

What I saw was the blinking red LED turns green - seemed to be in the same place, so the 1/4 stayed solid RED, and the blinking RED turned GREEN.

I don't know about removing the USB C to C from the manual - don't know if it's only a prototype problem.

Missed answering this - I only noticed a green LED was ON when I exposed the switch PCB. Fully assembled, can't see the green and in room light, all I see is yellow on one side, but in the dark, the full ring is lit up yellow. I would have to fix up the resistors myself to see what it looks like balanced. I prefer the look of yellow, but from experience, it will be a higher drain.

Ah, I see, I didn’t look at the switch with it powered up so didn’t notice the second LED was actually lit up.

9mA is a high value for idle drain, isn’t it? Hopefully this can get remedied…

Yes, that is high and can be sorted out with a resistor swap.

Tom, do you have a picture of the switch PCB? I want to make some markups on it so I can show them what to do.

Think I got a pic of the switch (not uploaded), if not, I'll take one. Been working on the switch this morn, actually. They used 2 330 ohm resistors, one to each LED, on the ground side of the LED's. So the green LED's are higher voltage (3.0-3.2V) and the yellows are 2.0-2.2V -- that's why the yellow took most of the current and was super bright while the green was barely lit. Ref: https://www.circuitbread.com/ee-faq/the-forward-voltages-of-different-leds

I set it up with 2 yellows and 2 4.7K resistors which resulted in a parasitic drain of ~0.8 mA, still relatively high but way better than 9 mA. It won't be as bright so need to see how it works assembled. I'm still though working on the switch so it can be tightened down.

For two greens, may try 8-10K resistors (possibly higher) - green is brighter and it will further lower the parasitic drain. NarsilM has only one brightness level while Anduril has two levels. The good thing of using the same color is the outer switch ring will be lit up evenly.