I just received my package from you yesterday, containing 5 pieces of the B4-40E tint of XHP35 HI, and that phosphor exactly looks like it is 90 CRI, so I would order it in flashlights, too.
A few months before, I also ordered an L21A with the 4000K tint option offered on that product page, but when I received it, I was less than happy to notice, that it was a 70CRI 4000K XHP35 HI (I already needed the B4-40E option that time, but I did believe, that I will receive that - I should have asked exactly for B4-40E then ). Now, that I can see that LED and its phosphor, the recently received LEDs’ phosphor looks like much less yellow, but rather light brown with very little orange, and that is a clear visual indication of the B4-40E being a real 90 CRI emitter.
Could you share a photo of the two? I have a K1 with 4000k xhp35, and i’m wondering which bin it is closer to, if they are that much different i can at least tell which mine is closer to.
Plus thank you for this info Adam7027, as now i know to ask Simon or at least just order bare LEDs from Simon and it them in the Convoy myself, its worth the extra cost to do it myself, if Convoy cannot do it at factory that is.
Yonii have the 26800 2A-rated charger, but I guess it’s not in the market at the moment. I have one, bundling with the battery (request order) when I bought my pi1man L80.
Where can I find such soldering iron?? I bought a soldering station which supposedly reaches 480C. But anytime I try to change LEDs of any light, it takes me at least 10-15min of heating and poking just to melt the solder. The host sucks up all the heat instantly. It gets really frustrating sometimes.
Yes. I realize that 80% of my problem is really me. Something I’m doing wrong. But yes. I use flux, always cleaning the tip to remove old solder and oxidation.
If you convert a 26650 light that already has charger to 26800 - great, that’s the lowest cost option for the customer
If you convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger - customer has to spend extra (unless they already have a suitable charger or are savvy enough to use wires with magnets combined with any charger). Overall - not as good as the option before. Also, no matter how you warn users about the cell being incompatible with most chargers, some users will miss the warning leading to a few negative surprises.
If you refuse to convert a 26650 light that doesn’t have a charger, the customer won’t have a choice to run that light with 26650. For a customer that might want to do this - that’s actually the worst option.
That’s from the customer point of view, naturally. I have no idea which option (and whether any of them) makes most sense for your business, just wanted to show you another view.
Are you referring to heating the +/- leads ? If you are, I find it much more effective to “tin” the end of the soldering tip with my leaded solder, then holding it right on The soldered connection (usually its at a weird angle to get good contact of the flat part of the tip) while at the same time gently pulling on the wire with my need nose tweezers. Hope this helps. Pm if you have any questions.
Make sure you’re using something (I often use a toothpick) to separate the MCPCB from the host. If you are indeed heating the entire host as you say, it’s going to be a bad time. I usually prop up the MCPCB so one edge is still resting on the host and the far edge is leaning on the toothpick, leaving the MCPCB sitting diagonally in the cavity. Then I remove the LED +/- wires.
Argo, that first option you list then makes that light a recharger for the other lights that don’t have a build in charger. This would be one of my options as I have the M3-C along with the M3 and L2. Second option is my current one with 2 Olight universal magnetic chargers. I need the extra run time after the Texas ice storm many items used up their charge without stable back up. 26800 gives me 25% more runtime. I tail stood a few lights to illuminate our powerless station and my home.
). Now, that I can see that LED and its phosphor, the recently received LEDs’ phosphor looks like much less yellow, but rather light brown with very little orange, and that is a clear visual indication of the B4-40E being a real 90 CRI emitter.