“REVIEW”: Lumintop FWAA – 14500 – Anduril 2 – Triple Nichia 4000K & 5000K [Pic Heavy]

Thx

Thanks and welcome to BLF!

I got mine with SST-40 today. Cute little light. :slight_smile:
Definitely a flooder, but not as extremely wide as I would expect.

Hum, can it be due to the SST20 produce a narrower beam than the Nichias?
And indeed it is a cute light, in many ways :heart_eyes:

Here is zeroairs review with runtime graphs…

Yes, 219C is much floodier than SST-20. That’s why I didn’t even consider a Nichia. I expected the light to be too floody with SST-20….and it actually is too floody, but not as much as I’d expect.

Thanks for posting samyy! :wink:
I hadn’t seen zeroair’s review yet, gonna take a look!

I guess the type of optic plays a role too, once it is not a clear one as the Carclo 10507, but it looks more like the 10511 used on the FW3A.

Muito obrigado pela grande revisão, MascaratumB. :THUMBS-UP: :-)

I fully agree with your opinion about this cute light. I bought both Nichia 219C 3000K and Luminus SST20 4000K, being really pleased with the overall performance. I noticed that thermal configuration is put somewhere else and not according to the standard by TK. After battery check another doubleclick does not take you to thermal config but to some beacon or blinky bode. It takes two doubleclicks in a row from battery check to get to thermal configuration.

I set my FWAAs to a ceiling of 100/150 (they both came with 150/150 in Advanced UI). Now, it works to my full satisfaction. I am not sure if the H10 really has 1000mAh since I only squeezed 550mAh into it from 3.41V to 4.16V. Will need to do a full capacity check later on.

Muitas saudações da Alemanha para Portugal. :-)

Thomas

P.S.

Maybe my Andúril 2 UI chart can be helpful to navigate through the UI.

Nice review but the one thing I was was looking forward to seeing was how obvious the step down was. Supposedly it’s 1900 lumens to 100 lumens in like 20 seconds.

Thanks for your words and suggestions Lux Perpetua :wink: Muito obrigado!

I wasn’t able to test the zillion configuration possibilities yet, so I didn’t compare/contrast the User Manual with your chart and check the differences. Thanks for the work on the chart and also thanks for the heads-up and correction of that point!! I just passed it from the Simple UI to the Advanced UI :smiley:

About the H10, I remember from HKJ tests that they are close to 1000mAh, but not exactly there, while the Shockli is farther from their advertised 1050mAH.

Like I mentioned before zoulas, I normally don’t do that kind of measurements on my reviews. I can check the stepdown in terms of lux vs minutes/seconds, but lumens and candela, it is not my thing as I don’t have tools for that.

As posted before, here is a link for zeroair review, with the runtime graphs.

great comparison photos
that thing looks tiny!

great tint and beamshot photos too
your 4000k 219c looks amazing, I love the pink tint… that is very unusual for a 219c

thank you for taking the time to share all that info
I was almost tempted, but I want AA compatibility

too bad about the No Reverse Polarity protection… but glad at least it did not kill your driver when you tested…

the zeroair review has a tint comparison shot:

that is a disgusting LED!
it is supposedly also the 4000k 219c… something does not make sense…
im Sad that he reports the light has PWM

Looks like the white balance on his camera is wrong because that is way to yellow for 4000k!

Thanks my friend :wink: It is indeed a small little and cute flashlight. I think this is one that many of us will “need” to have in the collection, be it for EDC, or for a shelf queen :wink: It is great for being so small!

Yup, indeed, it is quite nice tint and reminds me of a XP-G2 in have in the DGQ Slim. I will try to do some comparison tomorrow. I will also add some more photos of both lights trying to provide a better comparison.

Nothing to thank :blush:
Hum, I guess that for it we will have to wait for the Sofirn SP10X to see the daylight :wink:

I monitored the zone of the driver and when I noticed it was getting warm, I disconnected the power to avoid damage!

I think that sometimes it is difficult to get the balances right! And the Nichias, as far as I tried, are a bit hard to capture in their real essence. But indeed it is more rosy (to my eyes) than yellow.

And the PWM it has is not visible, it can only be seen in a camera.

I believe you are mentioning zeroair, or do you refer to mine?

Trying to show how floody it gets (even if the eyes see more than the camera).

Nichia 4000K (left) vs Nichia 5000K (right)

Building at 42m

Tower at 70m
(control)

Now the colour rendering with Auto balance.
Sorry about the focus on these, I forgot to get it closer :person_facepalming:


Reds turn better with the 4000K (left).
And you can see that the photos get rosier on the right!

very helpful, what about when waving the light up and down quickly?

unfortunately zeroair does not have the ability to measure the PWM speed

zeroair also says its very floody… I dont mind that… looks fine to me
I dont expect triples to be throwers…

and thanks for the flower photos… very pretty :slight_smile:
Im also curious what that tall metal screw is in some of your pics… wine press?

I don’t have that possibility too, but I would bet it doesn’t do that while waving! It is not visible (as far as I can tell) , only measurable! :+1:

I wonder if the optic can be polished for a more focused beam?

I doubt that! I guess that the more it gets polished, the more “frosted” it will be, and the floodier it will get. But this is a supposition!

The more polished it is, the clearer is will get. I would think that would be like the difference between the 10507 (clear, narrow) and the 10509(frosted, wide).

Yup, I know that is the purpose of polishing, but with such a tiny optic and thin surface, I am not sure how well could you polish to get a clear look as the 10507. But I am no expert on that too.

This is the type of surface you have (I don’t have my magnifying lenses with me to take a better photo).
Click to see in full resolution.