Yes, 219C is much floodier than SST-20. That’s why I didn’t even consider a Nichia. I expected the light to be too floody with SST-20….and it actually is too floody, but not as much as I’d expect.
Muito obrigado pela grande revisão, MascaratumB. :THUMBS-UP: :-)
I fully agree with your opinion about this cute light. I bought both Nichia 219C 3000K and Luminus SST20 4000K, being really pleased with the overall performance. I noticed that thermal configuration is put somewhere else and not according to the standard by TK. After battery check another doubleclick does not take you to thermal config but to some beacon or blinky bode. It takes two doubleclicks in a row from battery check to get to thermal configuration.
I set my FWAAs to a ceiling of 100/150 (they both came with 150/150 in Advanced UI). Now, it works to my full satisfaction. I am not sure if the H10 really has 1000mAh since I only squeezed 550mAh into it from 3.41V to 4.16V. Will need to do a full capacity check later on.
Muitas saudações da Alemanha para Portugal. :-)
Thomas
P.S.
Maybe my Andúril 2 UI chart can be helpful to navigate through the UI.
Nice review but the one thing I was was looking forward to seeing was how obvious the step down was. Supposedly it’s 1900 lumens to 100 lumens in like 20 seconds.
Thanks for your words and suggestions Lux Perpetua Muito obrigado!
I wasn’t able to test the zillion configuration possibilities yet, so I didn’t compare/contrast the User Manual with your chart and check the differences. Thanks for the work on the chart and also thanks for the heads-up and correction of that point!! I just passed it from the Simple UI to the Advanced UI
About the H10, I remember from HKJ tests that they are close to 1000mAh, but not exactly there, while the Shockli is farther from their advertised 1050mAH.
Like I mentioned before zoulas, I normally don’t do that kind of measurements on my reviews. I can check the stepdown in terms of lux vs minutes/seconds, but lumens and candela, it is not my thing as I don’t have tools for that.
As posted before, here is a link for zeroair review, with the runtime graphs.
Thanks my friend It is indeed a small little and cute flashlight. I think this is one that many of us will “need” to have in the collection, be it for EDC, or for a shelf queen It is great for being so small!
Yup, indeed, it is quite nice tint and reminds me of a XP-G2 in have in the DGQ Slim. I will try to do some comparison tomorrow. I will also add some more photos of both lights trying to provide a better comparison.
Nothing to thank
Hum, I guess that for it we will have to wait for the Sofirn SP10X to see the daylight
I monitored the zone of the driver and when I noticed it was getting warm, I disconnected the power to avoid damage!
I think that sometimes it is difficult to get the balances right! And the Nichias, as far as I tried, are a bit hard to capture in their real essence. But indeed it is more rosy (to my eyes) than yellow.
And the PWM it has is not visible, it can only be seen in a camera.
I believe you are mentioning zeroair, or do you refer to mine?
The more polished it is, the clearer is will get. I would think that would be like the difference between the 10507 (clear, narrow) and the 10509(frosted, wide).
Yup, I know that is the purpose of polishing, but with such a tiny optic and thin surface, I am not sure how well could you polish to get a clear look as the 10507. But I am no expert on that too.
This is the type of surface you have (I don’t have my magnifying lenses with me to take a better photo).
Click to see in full resolution.