Yup, it is flat :+1:
No zeroairs white balance seems off, not yours.
I think zeroair does not actually know what LED is in the light
“I wasn’t told what Kelvin was shipped and there was no package”
and here are his comments on the beam shape:
“The optic is around 17mm, and I couldn’t find a single replacement anywhere for it. It’s a very floody optic . Very floody.”
anyway
… its a nice host… the LEDs can be changed 
Wow, this is exceptional!!!
This is correct. I was shipped a light with no package, and was not told what the kelvin is.
Could be that it’s 3000K.
I still greatly appreciate your review
one of the things you do that I like, is you sometimes take lights apart
did you confirm the LED is a 219C?
Im asking mainly because the tint in your comparison photo
(another feature of your reviews that I really like),
does not look pink at all… particularly compared to the photos by MascaratumB
not trying to say one is right or the other wrong… just pointing out a surprising Tint difference
I did do so. The review shows the emitters with the bezel off; you can see the emitters too if you’d like.
Yes this surprised me too quite a bit (when someone else also pointed it out). I don’t have the answer. As with the other set of beamshots, the settings are as stated in the review:
ah yes, 219c of some sort:
thanks
the mustard yellow tint of the LEDs closely resembles what people posted when the RRT-01 2020 came out with a 4000k 219c, that ended up being 70 CRI… maybe thats what your light has too…
see what I mean?:
I think your 4000k guess is correct…
in the case of the RRT-01, the 4000k CCT and Low CRI was confirmed:
and verified:
I would just plan on an LED swap for the FWAA if it arrives with Mustard Yellow Tint. Ive always found 219c to have tint above the bbl (not my thing).
I think MascaratumB got lucky… Ive never seen a 219c with pink tint like his.
I think the only thing we can say is “who knows” and my opinion is that beamshots are about as useful as this thread would indicate. ¯\/¯
To quote the famous former major league baseball player Oscar Gamble, “They don’t think it be like it is, but it do.”
It is what it is. 
They don’t think tint be like it is, but it do.
So its a gamble on the 219c, but seemingly safe bet for the 20s. I would love a rosy nichia, but not feelin’ lucky.
The SST-20 is sold out.
I guess the thing to do is buy a 219c and be prepared to change the LEDs if it be yellow.
Now that’s the real shame.
When (ok “if”) they release brass, SST-20 is what I’ll get.
I tried to make a comparison between different Nichia Leds, with auto WB balance and with WB at 5000K.
From left to right:
Nichia 219C 5700K (Jaxman E3)
Nichia NVSW219BT ~5000K (“BLF 318” hc-lights.fi version)
Nichia 219C 5000K (FWAA)
Nichia 219C 4000K (FWAA)
WB - AUTO >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> WB - 5000K
Below there’s the comparison of the above mentioned Nichias, with the Wuben TO50R (4 Samsung LH351D 5000K), on the left of all
WB - AUTO >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> WB - 5000K
I also did other comparison with a flashlight with Luxeon V2 3000K (right), which is the warmer leds I have .
WB - AUTO >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> WB - 5000K
I am not sure if this helps in some way.
If my see all that rosy, or all that green, or all the other nuances, but they are there.
The WB at 5000K exaggerates the colours somehow, but this is the only way i can show how they look like. My cellphone doesn’t allow better…
EDIT: I picked my DQG Slim which has a rosy XP-G2. When compared with the FWAA with 219C 4000K, this one seems more leaned to yellow and the XP-G2 to rosy, at human sight.
thanks (hope you dont mind, I chopped your pics down to the two zeroair is comparing)
btw
have you confirmed your light actually does have 219c LEDs also?
your 4000k is definitely less yellow than the one zeroair posted
and you are both comparing to the same BLF 348
and using the same 5000k white balance.
Yup, I did confirm, both of mine are Nichias. If they are only selling 219C, then mine are 219C too
As I mentioned in my edit, when compared with a rosier led, the 4000K will have a more yellow tone, but then, while compared with others, its rosy slightly appears. I believe another camera could capture it in different conditions, so I am not saying I am “right” !
ZeroAir compares all the lights he reviews against a BLF 348 w/a 219B sw45k which is basically the rosiest emitter that exists, and which normally clock north of 4500K, so making 4000K nominal emitters look warmer and more greenish/yellow than you’d perceive them as in most circumstances.
This is a good thing IMO since sw45k is like the peak of tint for many people that value rosiness.
there is no right or wrong
Tint comparisons are relationships, they dont show absolute tint,
they show relative tint compared to another light
here is an example, the light on the left is the same each time, but depending what it is compared to, it can look more pink or less:
eventually someone with a spectrometer, will test and share the actual numerical duv and cct of the Nichia 4000k in the FWAA
meanwhile, enjoy your new little triples!
and Happy Mother’s Day 
I did this small test on video to show the stepdown on the Lumintop FWAA in the first minute.
The version used is the Nichia 5000K, and the flashlight was powered by a Vapcell H10 battery at 4.20V.
The thermal stepdown configurations are default, which means they are set for 45ºC according to user manual.
The stepdown is gradual from the start, with an accetuate drop within the 20-25s and then at around 47s the output stabilizes.
The temperature I measured with a IR thermometer was at around 41ºC, after 45s.
I used a luxmeter configured to Lux for demonstration purpose only, so please do not extrapolate numbers from this demonstration. The flashlight was at 1m from the luxmeter.
That 219c is exceptionally pink.