D10 with 6V boost driver and Tamagotchi firmware.
Removed anodization on threads with drain cleaner to get better heat dissipation and ground contact .
Cut off 0.8mm from gasket
Connected Vin with 0.8mm solid cooper wire. Dont need to connect ground, because now ground contact will go through cleaned button bezel.
Sandwich ready and in place
Button gasket removed
Have no 6V led for now …;))
Installed XHP50.2 5000K 90cri , nice floody led, so i left stock OP reflector.
This thing is really cool. 
How much does the driver cost?
Its unique and priceless! ;))
Idea to use it for D25S, with two 3V LEDs in series…
O.K. Probably the last and ultimate Lume1 inspired, TPS63020 buck-boost, Anduril, 3V LED driver for this nice & budged friendly headlamp.
Driver can output 12W with full (4.2V) and 6W with completely depleted (2.6V) battery. Acceptable PWM . All mode stabilization . Eficiency up to 93%. Have reverse polarity and thermal protections. 1 or 2 color aux led support. Lowest mode could be lower , but its fine.
Its the most advanced and balanced driver i ever made . Mission accomplished. 
PCB:
I am in :+1:
Hello to all
Can someone please tell where can I find to buy the original silicon o-ring that came with the glass inside?
My English it’s not so good ,it’s the black o-ring from this post Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps? - #163 by NeutralFan
Thanks a lot!
Best Regards!
You're probably better off just measuring the size of the o-ring in millimeters, and then getting an o-ring that's the same size.
Also, there's ViaSat in Romania?
I have ViaSat (in the U.S.)
It's the best internet service we can get, but it's still terrible.
I hope you have fun here, viasat!
Thanks for your answer!
I was hoping a more simple solution ,maybe buying a few replacements from aliexpress.
Nope ,no internet provider ,the username it’s from an satellite chanel package https://en.kingofsat.net/pack-viasat.php .
Best Regards!
You might be able to buy them from AliExpress, but I wouldn't count on Boruit selling them.
Once you know the size (in millimeters) that you need, you can search any online shop for o-rings of that size.
That ‘O’ ring is Buna Nitrile and can be spliced with Cyano-Acrylic (CA) glue. The CA melts into the neoprene and can be as good as the original – not used as elastic but a seal. When gluing be quick and precise, there isn’t any time to move the ends into place. Any excess I remove with a very sharp X-acto knife, sometimes I use a razor blade as more precise.
There is an American supplier of all sorts of ‘O’ rings The O Ring Store – if shipping is reasonable.
I ordered from this store just one time a few years ago…all went well. They seem like they have just about anything.
https://yongxu.aliexpress.com/store/4041066
And the usual LHT store has some: Group - Shop Cheap Group from China Group Suppliers at LHT Flashlight Store on Aliexpress.com
Since im not big fan off Anduril ’s smooth ramping and linear stepping mode, compiled new UI similar to Olight Baton and more balanced for headlamp output. Now testing with buck-boost TPS63020 driver…
For perfection, as you can notice, lowest mode can be dimmer and it have some lite PWM visible on camera only. But i have long winter ahead for improvements. ;))
Very nice work, out of all of my headlamps this is the house favorite even with stock ui
I’m a big fan of the Anduril modes. Olight UI can be pretty good, but only if the mode spacing is perfect. What I like about Anduril is you can pick your # of modes yourself, and where they start and end, and imo the spacing always ends up perfect.
Yes, its all about spacing. At least in Anduril 1 stepped mode spacing is linear. It dividing steps for ramp length equally. But for headlamp (and not only) is more important to have modes in low range … like 4 modes from 0.5ma to 500ma. and hi at 1000ma. And of course separated turbo like 2-3amps for short time or as long as possible.
Gonna be rough to get decent current to the LEDs with 24 gauge required to fit the grooves in the tube
