Does the LT1 when fully charged, the on/off button/glow switch turn green. Mine is orange and I have put in on charge for like 5+ hrs still not turned green. Charging with battery charger that was shipped by default
The button is orange by default, and will turn red when you plug it in and start charging. It will turn green when it hits termination. It does take quite a while to charge all of the way, depending on which cells you have there’s a lot of capacity and I don’t think the charge current is very high.
With completely flat cells, it can take as long as 10 hours to fully charge. The charge current is only 1.5A.
Make sure the red LED illuminates under the button cover to indicate that it is indeed charging when you plug it in. The older rev driver board will not charge with a USB-C to C cable (must use USB-A to C).
The cost is not worth it. It might be as much as $15+ for components alone for not all that much improvement. You’re already getting 4+ hours on high with 7 7135s.
Yes, you’d gain maybe 15- 20% efficiency at the start at most but that efficiency gain decreases as the batteries discharge. It won’t even make a difference heat wise since the LEDs are far away from the driver.
On top of that, you’d have to pay people to design the driver and much more.
Some questions that have for the thread. Is it possible to run the device off a single battery? Or two? Or three? I’m looking for ideas to reduce weight. I can see that running off of USB directly is possible. I was thinking as an alternative, if there was a cap/base that could be put on the bottom to protect the inside of the lantern, and then just dedicate a USB power bank of my choosing?
This has probably been asked before, but is there a pogo pin kit I can buy to flash the LT1 with a new firmware? I already have the kit Hank sells for Emisar / Noctigon lights, so if I can use the same with another pogo pin end, that would be nice. TIA.
I can confirm it will run just fine on only 1 battery. It’s still pretty damn heavy though, I’ve just resigned myself to leaving it at home anytime weight is going to be a concern.
What is the difference between Version 1 and 2? Do I understand correctly that version 2 has an included USB C to C cable, and the Version one is USB A to C? Any other differences?
Hi, can someone share the latest manual PDF? The Google drive link is not working.
Also, quick question, I got 2 black and 1 orange O-ring. What is the point of them? Do I need to use them? I kind of like my light without orange, just pure black.
version 1 (board revision 4.3):
- charging works with USB-A to USB-C cable, but not USB-C-to-USB-C cable
- the solder points 4 & 5 appear to be manually soldered (can unsolder to reduce max brightness)
- slightly earlier Anduril version
version 2 (board revision 5.0):
- charging works with USB-A to USB-C, and also USB-C-to-USB-C cable ; this is because a tiny resistor has been soldered near the charging port portion to allow USB-C-to-USB-C to work
- the solder points 4 & 5 appear to be jumpered already internally (I think will need to break that jumper to have reduced max brightness) <= I'm not very sure about this part though..
- a bit later Anduril version (2020-03-18 or 2020-06-02) ; it's noted by Lux Perpetua that they may use Anduril 2 in the future - not sure if the board would still be the same -- I have already flashed my LT1 to Anduril 2...
I notice the position of the "loc. LED" label on the board changes from v4.3 to v5.0 = not sure if it's just the label position move or there is any change.
Received my Orange LT1, ordered from the Sofirn Aliexpress store. Amazing super quick 10 days delivery to Australia (never had an Aliexpress shipment that quick!).
Unit is certainly nice and solid, feels very well built in the hand.
A small blotch of one-two diamonds of the knurling are missing the orange anodizing, but otherwise the finish is really nice.
Ordered the kit version so it included the Sofirn batteries, and unfortunately one of the batteries had a very sharp edge on the top nipple. The result of this was every time you unscrew the batteries, you would get a pile of metal shavings from the battery cutting a groove in the contact ring on the board. Thankfully I noticed that quite quickly and a minute with a jewelers file solved that issue, as having metal filings shaking around near the driver board may not have ended well.
What glue have people used to attach the top o-ring, as I see that pops off really easily?
The UI certainly is very “comprehensive”, but seems easy enough to just use the simple on/off, brightness up/down without using Muggle mode.
Congrats to DBSAR and others for all the work in producing this lantern. Certainly glad I bought this instead of the CL30R I was originally looking at to compliment by CL25R.
I moved the orange O-ring down on the light to the slot just above the lighted switch for decoration (where it cannot pop off anymore) and purchased some Youth/7" sized Silicone Rubber Wrist Bands (which are 1/2" wide and do not pop off unexpectedly like the orange O-ring) from AmazonUS to use at the top of my LT1 lanterns as a bumper for some limited extra protection in case the light trips over on it's side, but you may be able to find something similar in Australia.
I purchased the "Black" color which looks elegant on the light, but they have many colors to choose from including "Green Glow in Dark". I'm not sure which size fits best (Youth/7" or Adult/8") but the Youth/7" size seems to fit perfectly with just the right amount of stretch.