Thanks everyone, looks like I am going to have to make the pills my self. I emailed mtnelectronics and am waiting to hear back about some of there smaller drivers. I started out wanting to use somewhat standard parts but am no going to make nearly every component in house so that i do not have to settle. the design is changing by the second but as soon as i have it a little closer i will be sure to share.
No idea what size (min/max) you want for pills, but czech out fastttech.com first, as they got assloads of pills in all sorts of diameters/heights.
I got like 3 different types of brass pills that fit C8s to replace the crappy featherweight Al pills that came-with.
Pickin’ is less than it used to be, but…
https://www.fasttech.com/category/1616/flashlight-diy-parts-miscellaneous-parts
Thanks for the input everyone, Im moving along with my design and have decided to change the button and that is going to change most of my components. I want to go to an electronic button, the nature of my design just isn’t lending its self to a clicky/ latching button. Now i need a driver capable of running on an electronic/ momentary button with the lowest parasitic draw possible. I see mtnelectronics has a qlite driver that can run this type of switch, any other recommendations? looking to use a cree xml2 emitter. Also any sources of good electronic buttons? They are extremely hard to find.
I get the impression this is a huge learning experience for you 
It most certainly is. Im figuring things out the best I can though, sourcing components is seeming to be the hardest part as none of the parts are made in the us, they are never properly represented on line and their availability is spotty.
I was going to suggest contacting TexasLumens but it looks like they no longer have any Website. I don’t know if the business closed down…???
What im looking for in a button is really just the outside metal cap/retainer that screws in on side button lights. I can set up my own tactile switch underneath i just need a screw in metal cover/button.
The only thing that springs to mind is the convoy metal button which is not US made, of course.
Unlike rubber boots, metal buttons are usually a proprietary item on hosts. So there is very little available.
It kinda sounds to me like you are trying to piece together a ‘new flashlight design’ from existing available parts. For a tubular host that’s almost possible but for a side by side cell light that sounds like an impossibility. Or do i have that wrong… are you having a new host produced at a local machine shop?
Maybe get a metal switch for a Convoy S2+. Screw-in design…
Dee-oh! Beat me by seconds…
I beat you… did i win…?? What’s my prize??? 
I’m looking into those convoy buttons, the lead time in then isn’t great and it would be nice to have something in my hand quickly to know if it won’t work. I’m designing a side by side light from the ground up to hopefully produce and really at this point the only thing I’m not machining my self is the button but I’m thinking I will have to make that as well. Something like a piston in a sleeve with o rings or a similar design to the s2 metal buttons with a silicone boot only more flush and have it interface with a tactile micro switch. I’m trying to keep it as compact as possible.
DQG Tiny did some pretty small side switch assemblies. Some had a rubber boot, some had a metal button but all had a press fit retainer. I’m guessing that will save you a little bit of machine time if you press fit rather than thread.
Thanks again for all the suggestions, its taken me a few months but I finally think I have nailed my design and what to see what everyone thinks.
Hopefully the images come through, my first time trying to post them.
The design is a 2 piece light that is brought together by the thumbwheel in the center. It takes 2 14500 cells run in parallel and will run on only one in a pinch. Right now i am building them with the Qlite momentary switch driver from mtnelectronics but am open to suggestions if someone knows of a driver under 18mm diameter that can run both aa/ 14500 but i haven’t been able to find one. I have designed the head to accept 20mm carclo optics and i will be offering both in single xml2 and triple xp-e2 configurations. The “guts” of the light are my custom made pill that holds the Led, driver with momentary switch attached that can be changed by unscrewing the front bezel allowing you to easily go between different led configurations by putting in a new pill/lens.
I am machining everything my self including the button that is located on the bottom of the light toward the front. The location of the button makes the light very versatile, lending its self to many different hand positions. The slot running between the batteries is a mounting point for accessories including the pocket clip, which can be loosened and slid higher or lower, Mlok and keymod weapons mounting adapters which will be flush to the rail, and a magnet to come later.
The weight is around 5oz without batteries, 4.15 inches long, 1.65 inches tall, .8 inches wide at the body and .96 inches at the swell on the head.
I hope to have a completed final version completed this week and i will share some photos as soon as I can
Pretty speccy looking light
DQG had some TERRIBLE versions of side switches, though they were small, they broke very soon.
it;s different but i would expect it not to sell to the ‘pocketing EDC’ market - it is too thick and heavy.
not familiar with lights that go on guns, maybe small and light do not matter to them.
just saying.
beg to differ, it is titanium and made in USA, it will certainly sell
here is a similar two AA that weighs 115 grams and sells out at $250, in aluminium
here is a Spy007, USA made dual cell Ti $2,700:
the site http://www.coolfall.com/p007.html does not say what it weighs, nor what LED it uses… and there are no beam photos… Im guessing the people who can afford it, dont care… (if I have to ask, I cant afford it)
I appreciate the input! Ive made the light as narrow as i can to still be able to use the carclo optics that I wanted. I chose these optics because they are affordable, easily available and come in many different styles and cam be changed quickly by the end user by simply unscrewing the front bezel.
As for the button I am making my own that consists of a tactile switch with a silicone top hat under a metal button that is held in by a threaded ring that also seals around the silicone hat. This is in my opinion the most waterproof way you can make a button and still have a metal surface. I plan on including multiple height buttons; recessed, flush and protruding that can be changed by simply unscrewing the retaining ring. I would also like to offer lighted buttons as an upgrade.
I am considering adding some recesses on the sides to lower some weight but I really love the clean look of it how it is, though it may be something i do as a different version. Right now they will be made of aluminum, i do plan on doing some in titanium eventually but it will add over 30% to the weight.
Overall I am happy with how is coming out, I think it presents an interesting alternative to other side by side lights on the market. Its way harder than you would think to design a non round light and have it somewhat waterproof and not be giant but most of my dimensions come in just under what others are making and i am able to fit larger optics. The only place mine is bigger really is the length but my closure mechanism adds about .25” and is really my favorite part. At just over 4” I think it feels really nice in the hand.
thanks for sharing your thoughts
though I like the look of the closure dial, once I figured out it is not the switch,
I think I would rather have it at the tail
totally respect your switch button design goals, it matches my Sunwayman V11r construction, it actually comes with two switch caps, both flush, one rubber, one Ti
I like that the switch position in your design allows either thumb or index finger operation, and is easy to locate by feel… it will be even more ergonomic with the closure dial at the base of the grip
like the very clean lines
and a cool resemblance to a derringer
thanks for sharing pics
given the choice of optic and straight sides, the weight makes sense…
marketing spin:
more thermal mass, supports a higher sustainable output
question
for that optic size, does the present design have enough room for a 16340 battery also?
a 16340 option, could be shorter, and weigh less…
and you could use a separate AA adapter also…