Ff light

Thank you for the advice! If you know of an app please feel free to suggest one, anyone. I love my iPhone 12’s camera, but for beam shots it is literally terrible, it Does make two different lights look identical. Although the differences between the e12 and E07x are negligible, there are still visual differences.

I will try to reupload some new pictures with manual settings tonight/early tomorrow.

Thanks!

Check out ProCamera or maybe Lightroom mobile.
Just make sure shutter speed, aperture and ISO are fixed between both shots.

[quote=ftumch33]

[quote=adam7027]

The E12R and the T9R are both in transit, and will be my first Fireflies lights in my massive collection of lights. As many comments on the threads as I see here, just exactly what could be so hard about cutting adequate threads in an aluminum tube? After this many comments they have to be aware of the issues. Perhaps they should spend less resources on auxilary lights, and more on threading. I do not give a hoot in hell about multi-colored auxilary lights. For me, multi colored led’s are for Christmas trees, but to each his own I guess. That gimmicky stuff first came in some of my Astrolux lights, and thought it might grow on me, but it did not. I hope I can manage to click the switch ten times to get to advanced features and unlock turbo. That might be hard with my spinal cord damage. I am sure disableing the auxilary lights is in the menu. I am sure many users love that in a light, but it is just something else to drain the battery to me.

Ok awesome. I downloaded an app called “manual”. It’s pretty intuitive and nice. Only question I had was where to set iso, aperture, shutter speed, and white balance. But your right, as long as they are the same between the two shots I should be good, right?

Exactly, all three settings (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) need to be the same between shots. White balance as well if you want to compare tint and colour temperature. For white balance, I would set it to 4500k which is the benchmark for neutral white in flashlights.

[quote=sarge12]

[quote=ftumch33]

The threads are NOT bad. I am literally going to make a video of this tonight. The tail cap threads have a weirdness to them that I believe is completely due to the captive clip and other grommets back there. All of my KR4 and KR1 have the same weirdness.

Just use the head to remove the battery. There is no reason to unscrew the tail cap. The Head Side threads are very smooth, or I just so happened to coincidentally get lucky on 3 different lights (I highly doubt that) - the threads are fine.

I’m a sucker for the gimmicky auxiliary lights. I can see how some are not though. 7 clicks while off will get the auxiliary light off for you. 10 clicks from off will get it into hi-test mode. :+1:

I have FF NOV-MU and the tail threads were bad. The tail threads were poorly machined that the surface of square-cut surface had visible machining marks. Here are links to some photos that show the machining marks.

1. E12R tail threads reddit ( Reddit - Dive into anything )
https://i.imgur.com/XjNzIRg.jpg (comment: This is similar to what happened to mine.)

2. E12R threads ( FireFlies E12R review | High Power Flashlight with 6800 lumens )
https://1lumen.com/wp-content/uploads/fireflies-e12r-22.jpg (comment: See the reflection on the male and female threads)

3. T9R threads ( FireFlies T9R review | High power thrower flashlight with Luminus SBT90.2 )
https://1lumen.com/wp-content/uploads/fireflies-t9r-14.jpg (comment: See the reflection on the female threads)

I sanded the surface down and now the threads are smooth. So it must be the rough surface that caused my bad experience.

My head’s threads are terrible. If I screw on the body to the head with a 40T/30T in, I have to press the two halves together. This makes it feel like I might cross thread the two threads at any moment. The way to mitigate this is to unscrew the tailcap just a bit so the springs aren’t under as much compression.

You might have lucked out but that doesn’t change any of our threads.

Ok, so I see it in the two 1lumen inages, definite chatter from what was probably dull tooling or unstable mounting during lathe work. The Reddit list I think is an unfortunate combination of FireFlies QC not cleaning the part and the super strong magnet piling the shavings onto the threads, nor a machining problem as much as QC (its bad but not as bad as poor matching).

The chattered machining is disappointing and I stand corrected. My apologies. I also wonder if any of the lights with bad rail threads had good or bad quality head threads? Probably no way to know. I mean specifically the chattered thread lights. I wonder how those lights head threads look…

Anyway- to Sarge12 and others who are concerned, not EVERY light has jacked up threads. But I guess that makes it a gamble… I don’t know mine could have bad tail threads I just don’t use them so I don’t even know honestly. The head threads are find but they are so smooth it’s how in open the light.

When the friction surface is rough, those metal shavings are generated. In my case, it was the bad machining that caused the grittiness as well as metal shavings.

I also load the battery from the front, but I loosen the tail a bit so I can better align the head threads. I don’t use the clip.

Oh, ok. Wow. Well I am learning something here, and it is unfortunate Convoy has $20 lights with Perfect machining and these amazing FireFlies suffer from this machining, I’m hoping it’s an “isolated incident” since it appears the at least E07x and e12 are all machined similarly, and probably at same time.

Anyway, I hope Jack and FireFlies does something for the people effected. Even if that is a coupon code or allows returns for those who don’t want to do business with them

I love this community so much because it’s so helpful and enlightening. I’ve been thoroughly enriched and educated so much by being here. That being said…

Everyone literally crying about threads on a flashlight that is likely better than any other flashlight on the market is pretty mind-blowing. It doesn’t matter how many times you tell people to clean the threads, or to apply lube, or that you’re only supposed to use the head-side threads…or to just get the F%CK over it…people will still drown in a cup of water and trash Fireflies.

For those that can’t seem to find any useful insight on the new Fireflies because there is so much nonsense about “bad threads”, let me help you.

Fireflies makes some of the best lights the enthusiast community has ever seen. I do enjoy ultra smooth threads but this topic has gotten way outta hand now. No company is perfect, no not even Hank. But no one has pushed the community forward lately like Fireflies.

Hank was doing an 8 emitter E21A mule. Fireflies said 21 E21A emitters is more like it (that pushed Hank to do 16 emitters). Even now, no one has come close to producing the Nichia 219B lights FF has. Hank is making a 1200 Lumen E21A D4v2. FF had double that Lumen in the PL47G2 with Nichia 219B’s 2 years ago. E07 had almost 4000 Lumen of ultra high CRI light years ago too. You’d have to buy the K9.3 to beat that. Even the ROT66 Nichia is an absolute classic in raw aluminum. I get some pushback on “imperfections”, but some of this shit is just beyond overboard at this point. Not a single person here needs a replacement light because “the threads are bad”.

Here are the top 4 companies all things considered. Convoy, Sofirn, Emisar/Noctigon and Fireflies. Each one has their own strengths but, all are great at what they do. Everything else is just noise.

If you guys can understand all the endless complaining about some threads that don’t even affect performance…then you guys should be able to understand my need, my almost DUTY, to return the favor.

@Lojik, I couldn’t have said it better. I agree 100%. Well done.

Yea! what @Lojik said!

see look, perfect threads

ok, ok.. im done..

But really, he is right. FireFlies is crushing it right now, and have been for awhile. i'm with ya @loljk.

My secondaries are no where near that bright!
Someone said there should be pots on the board that one could raise the brightness of the secondaries.
When I took out the optic, I did find 4 screws but I believe they are there to hold the board down.

+2

@ftumch33, haven’t taken optic out but the pot screws are very small. Much smaller than board screws. I don’t believe this light has adjustable secondaries. Did you go through all of the settings for them? 7 clicks to access. I thought you would have already but just wanted to mention it. When I put mine on low they are very dim. Good Luck.

So the threads on the head are not an issue? If not, no problem.

SST20 tests should be up in signature.
I think what I received was FA3 (which I requested, but wouldn’t have if I knew the DUV RISES with power, unlike FB4 which lowered with power increase), but he had said there was only FA4.

Yes, head thread are totally fine.

never mind, apparently some people have had problems.