Led Lenser XEO19 R LED type

Hurray! And no, wont be buying led lenser again after they refused to honour the warrenty because i baught this in the uk and they don’t sell it in NZ!

You’re lucky, LL sometimes uses a funny soldering technique that make it much harder to swap the LED. Not here.
This looks like a Samsung LH351D to me, though I’m not sure due to pic quality. Could you measure the LED size? If it’s about 3.5x3.5 mm then it’s probably a standard footprint LED, there are many to choose from. To be really sure we should see MCPCB pads though. So as the next step I suggest that you unsolder the lead wires and then unsolder the LED from the MCPCB - you need to do it anyway if you want to repair your light.

On another topic, I’m curious what’s the backing plate material. Is it some kind of metal?

Yeah, it’s 3.5 x 3.5mm.
I’ll have a look tomorrow at the backing plate, I’ve put it back together for now.

OK. We can start talking on what would be the best replacement for you. The stock LED was a very efficient model, we won’t be able to improve on that.
Several questions:

  • We can choose something that produces a beam that would reach farther at the cost of the beam being somewhat narrower. Would that be valuable for you?
  • Do you like warmer or cooler lights?
  • Would you like something with better colour rendering? This will cost some output loss but the world looks better when illuminated with higher CRI. If unsure say yes….unless it’s an emergency light and you really focus on getting the most output out of whatever battery it has.

Yeah further would be good as the beam is slightly wider than I need anyway, I don’t really have a preference for warmer or cooler, I’ve only really used led lenser in the past but hey let’s try warmer for a change and yeah we’ll go for the better colour rendering, as the battery is plenty big enough.
Cheers

Assuming that the footprint is what I think it is :wink: I would recommend Luminus SST-20-W 4000K with CRI95.
4000K is considered neutral and a pretty safe choice. The light will produce a significantly (but not hugely) narrower throw beam. As to other properties, I’m assuming that Led Lenser has chosen a CRI70 variant which may not be the case.
If SST-20 was CRI70, it would reach quite a bit farther but CRI95 costs some output. In effect the beam will be slightly dimmer but much more pleasant.

It seems a CREE XP-L HD rather than the Samsung LH351D.

I can try to take a better photo of it tomorrow, but it’s bloody hard to get the phone to focus on it!

Even if is a Cree XP-L that doesn’t interfere with the suggestions given by Agro, as both are 3535 Leds.
So you can explore the options he told about.

IMHO, LL is not so bad. I do however hate the headlamps where the battery is behind your head. It makes it impossible to lie under your car to do a repair. The battery digs into your head.

I cannot take a better photo at this time.

Could be XP-L HD as well. It should have visible bonding wires but with this photo quality they may be missing.
In general, here:

is a great collection of LED photos that help identification.

Anyway, XP-L HD is slightly less efficient and slightly narrower than LH351D.
Everything I wrote comparing LH351D to SST-20 applies to XP-L HD as well, but to lesser extent.

My assumption was based on the shape of the LED (yellow part seems less wider), and the white part around the dome being wider than in LH351D.

Also, knowing LL, I guess they would probably go with CW emitters, and by the time this headlamp was launched, I am not sure if the LH351D was already in the market or if it was as popular as Cree.

Still, I can be mistaken :wink:

hopfully this is a better photo, and the backing plate is metal.

Holy God, 160bux for one?!?

Anyhoo, it’s unlikely an LED would blow, so if you got a meter that has “diode check”, hit the LED with that both ways and see if it glows even faintly. If yes, it’s not the LED, but something else.

Could save yourself a bunch of time’n’trouble…

Good point Lightbringer. There is no LED damage visible.
BTW, it seems that bond wires are visible here, so now I stand by MascaratumB’s guess - it’s XP-L HD.

BTW, I see that they thermal interface material between the MCPCB and the body is quite excessive and possibly unevenly applied.
I wonder if LL put so much thermal paste or maybe they went with the safer option and used glue?

Cheers for all your help guys! I should have said the photo is of the undamaged led, the other one looks a lot more damaged! Im not sure if im looking at the right thing because as far as i can see, mouser.com sell them for $4.07 each?
https://nz.mouser.com/Search/Refine?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=160102431

No, these are XP-L2. The next generation of the same LED. I would recommend against it because there’s a risk that your beam will be of uneven colour, shifting from the center towards outside.

I second this, do not use XP-L2, your beam quality will be… :disappointed: :confounded:

If you can find SST-20 or Samsung LH351D, as Agro mentioned, go for them.

Just don’t get the SST20 in cool white otherwise you’ll get a green tint on low