I see a few different strategies for choice of metal in a FWAA, for heat management…
1. Copper will move the most heat, but is heavy, and some people dont like the germicidal smell.
2. Brass will capture and contain the most heat, preventing it from moving to the surface. Brass is also germicidal and heavy, but less conductive than copper, though more conductive than titanium
3. Titanium will block heat and gives the operator a cold tail to hold on to. It weighs less than the other fancy metals.
4. Some like the Hot Head option, mixing a Ti body with a copper head..
personal opinion
I dislike Ti+Cu
because it can create a false sense of safety.
If I touch the copper head, it is much hotter than the Titanium tail.
I like Ti because it is less heavy than Copper and Brass
I like that the light has a Simple UI that prevents overheating, regardless of the host material
I dislike that Brass contains Lead
I like Copper, except it is extra heavy.. which is why I settle on Ti, for myself
Full titanium here, I know the Ti+Cu is better for heat disapation but I can’t stand the way copper and Ti look together and hate the way it smells. This isn’t a light that I’ll use at High levels for extended periods of time anyway.
—
"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams
I’m running all my lights on high or turbo most of the time so after i got FW3S and cooked 2 emitters in less then 5min that was it with pure Ti, SS etc when it comes to multiemitter setup. FWAA is HOT! Somebody mentioned better thermal grease but i wanted to say to just remove excess of grease that comes with it and you’ll see hell... No need for better grease.
When it comes to copper and brass i always solder MCPCB to the head and if possible stuff thermal cubes between driver and the shelf for the best possible thermal menagement.
Thebest looking is TiCu and NO, it won’t give you false sense of realtemperature cause driver is in the same shelf with emitters. Titanium and SS does that...
I know I’m a PITA about this part of it but I just don’t EDC floddy lights. The sole reason for a 14500 FW to me is warm weather active wear or fancy clothes. The latter is why I’d bite on my vote (Ti-Cu) but a light weight and rugged 7075 with some throw would be my summertime go to.
how would you feel about a gchart
Sofirn SP10S “BLF edition” with Andúril 2 and AA capability,
it has one LED..
but, im not a sideswitch fan
===
thanks to all for voting in the poll
my take away is that the TiCu would make the most people happy
the 30% that voted Ti, would get some Ti in a TiCu
the 30% that voted TiCu, get what they hoped for
and the 18% that voted Copper, could be consoled by the TiCu Head
that is a total of 78% of respondents whose preferences could be partially satisfied by a TiCu run. (except the ones that hate TiCu.. lol)
Side switches have three homes: on fat lights (3+18650), long lights, and extra stubby lights.
BUT..
The switch must be large, recessed, and easy located. Rubber covers preferred. These things are unlikely on a truly tiny 14500. The SC52 was a favorite zebralight of mine, but the diameter was pushing it for an AA.
Side switches have three homes: on fat lights (3+18650), long lights, and extra stubby lights.
The other way ‘round: Tail switches have their home in lights that you would hold in ‘the tactical way’.
Acebeams L35 (and probably many other lights) is a nice example of how to do it right: Turbo on tailswitch, normal operation on side switch. Locating the switch is no problem if there’s a clip. I’m using the D4V2 and Wuben E05-I blindly, just like a SC5c.
Side switches have three homes: on fat lights (3+18650), long lights, and extra stubby lights.
The other way ‘round: Tail switches have their home in lights that you would hold in ‘the tactical way’.
Acebeams L35 (and probably many other lights) is a nice example of how to do it right: Turbo on tailswitch, normal operation on side switch. Locating the switch is no problem if there’s a clip. I’m using the D4V2 and Wuben E05-I blindly, just like a SC5c.
I think more detail is required. a well-done side switch (zebralight SC6x series) is easily found. The whole light basically guides you to it. And I’ve never had an accidental activation. At the same time, a protruding side switch is a disaster in-pocket. And then there’s my Thrunite T10T V2, which I can hardly find the switch on despite indexing it with the clip.
maybe Ti for the weight, but comparing aluminum weight and cost, and considering the heat disadvantage, i would say ‘Ti not worth it’
(same for my bicycles )
—
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you,or you're having a good day." Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles". It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond. ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
I see a few different strategies for choice of metal in a FWAA, for heat management…
1. Copper will move the most heat, but is heavy, and some people dont like the germicidal smell.
2. Brass will capture and contain the most heat, preventing it from moving to the surface. Brass is also germicidal and heavy, but less conductive than copper, though more conductive than titanium
3. Titanium will block heat and gives the operator a cold tail to hold on to. It weighs less than the other fancy metals.
4. Some like the Hot Head option, mixing a Ti body with a copper head..
personal opinion
I dislike Ti+Cu
because it can create a false sense of safety.
If I touch the copper head, it is much hotter than the Titanium tail.
I like Ti because it is less heavy than Copper and Brass
I like that the light has a Simple UI that prevents overheating, regardless of the host material
I dislike that Brass contains Lead
I like Copper, except it is extra heavy.. which is why I settle on Ti, for myself
others will differ
TiCu is my first choice for colour combination. Ti would be second choice.
I don’t think the thermal properties of this little light are of huge importance to me.
Full titanium here, I know the Ti+Cu is better for heat disapation but I can’t stand the way copper and Ti look together and hate the way it smells. This isn’t a light that I’ll use at High levels for extended periods of time anyway.
"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams
IIRC, someone had shown a light legoed from titanium (tube) and black anodized aluminum (head, tailcap). Liked the look of it.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
I’m running all my lights on high or turbo most of the time so after i got FW3S and cooked 2 emitters in less then 5min that was it with pure Ti, SS etc when it comes to multiemitter setup.
FWAA is HOT! Somebody mentioned better thermal grease but i wanted to say to just remove excess of grease that comes with it and you’ll see hell... No need for better grease.
When it comes to copper and brass i always solder MCPCB to the head and if possible stuff thermal cubes between driver and the shelf for the best possible thermal menagement.
Thebest looking is TiCu and NO, it won’t give you false sense of realtemperature cause driver is in the same shelf with emitters. Titanium and SS does that...
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
IMHO, a light this small, with zero heat sinking, that is this powerful, cannot really benefit much from a change in metal type alone.
Heatsinking is a secondary part of the question. The primary is “what metal do you want?”
To each their own. I would vote for a single emitter version made from hard 7075 Al with a true HAIII natural/olive (older zebralight) anodizing
That does sound great.
that might happen too
after the fancy metals
Brass, Gotta go with C-3PO! All the way
I know I’m a PITA about this part of it but I just don’t EDC floddy lights. The sole reason for a 14500 FW to me is warm weather active wear or fancy clothes. The latter is why I’d bite on my vote (Ti-Cu) but a light weight and rugged 7075 with some throw would be my summertime go to.
I’d love to have one made of rhodium.
Of course, I’d immediately sell it for scrap, and retire…
== We save the planet from darkness ==
I feel the same way
how would you feel about a gchart
Sofirn SP10S “BLF edition” with Andúril 2 and AA capability,
it has one LED..
but, im not a sideswitch fan
===
thanks to all for voting in the poll
my take away is that the TiCu would make the most people happy
the 30% that voted Ti, would get some Ti in a TiCu
the 30% that voted TiCu, get what they hoped for
and the 18% that voted Copper, could be consoled by the TiCu Head
that is a total of 78% of respondents whose preferences could be partially satisfied by a TiCu run. (except the ones that hate TiCu.. lol)
I look forward to the Fancy FWAA run
Side switches have three homes: on fat lights (3+18650), long lights, and extra stubby lights.
BUT..
The switch must be large, recessed, and easy located. Rubber covers preferred. These things are unlikely on a truly tiny 14500. The SC52 was a favorite zebralight of mine, but the diameter was pushing it for an AA.
An oring modded FW is really my preference.
The other way ‘round: Tail switches have their home in lights that you would hold in ‘the tactical way’.
Acebeams L35 (and probably many other lights) is a nice example of how to do it right: Turbo on tailswitch, normal operation on side switch. Locating the switch is no problem if there’s a clip. I’m using the D4V2 and Wuben E05-I blindly, just like a SC5c.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
Missing diamond and silver.
Also graphite. Who wants an FW#2 pencil beam?
I think more detail is required. a well-done side switch (zebralight SC6x series) is easily found. The whole light basically guides you to it. And I’ve never had an accidental activation. At the same time, a protruding side switch is a disaster in-pocket. And then there’s my Thrunite T10T V2, which I can hardly find the switch on despite indexing it with the clip.
I have a T10T V2 w no clip
the only way to find the sideswitch is with my eyes
fortunately, the FWAA does not have a sideswitch to worry about… lol
I would like a stainless steel FWAA. It is small enough that even in SS, the weight would be manageable.
here are the weights with battery:
FWAA Cu: 91 grams
FWAA Ti: 67.1 grams
FWAA aluminum: 55.2 grams
so, I got the Cu FWAA w sst-20 4000k
I like the FWAA a lot, and the LEDs are not green tinted like a 219c, so am debating buying another SST-20 4000k
should I get a Shiny Ti, or Ti CU? lol
maybe Ti for the weight, but comparing aluminum weight and cost, and considering the heat disadvantage, i would say ‘Ti not worth it’
(same for my bicycles
)
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond.
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸