I’m running all my lights on high or turbo most of the time so after i got FW3S and cooked 2 emitters in less then 5min that was it with pure Ti, SS etc when it comes to multiemitter setup.
FWAA is HOT! Somebody mentioned better thermal grease but i wanted to say to just remove excess of grease that comes with it and you’ll see hell... No need for better grease.
When it comes to copper and brass i always solder MCPCB to the head and if possible stuff thermal cubes between driver and the shelf for the best possible thermal menagement.
Thebest looking is TiCu and NO, it won’t give you false sense of realtemperature cause driver is in the same shelf with emitters. Titanium and SS does that...
I know I’m a PITA about this part of it but I just don’t EDC floddy lights. The sole reason for a 14500 FW to me is warm weather active wear or fancy clothes. The latter is why I’d bite on my vote (Ti-Cu) but a light weight and rugged 7075 with some throw would be my summertime go to.
how would you feel about a gchart
Sofirn SP10S “BLF edition” with Andúril 2 and AA capability,
it has one LED…
but, im not a sideswitch fan
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thanks to all for voting in the poll
my take away is that the TiCu would make the most people happy
the 30% that voted Ti, would get some Ti in a TiCu
the 30% that voted TiCu, get what they hoped for
and the 18% that voted Copper, could be consoled by the TiCu Head
that is a total of 78% of respondents whose preferences could be partially satisfied by a TiCu run. (except the ones that hate TiCu… lol)
Side switches have three homes: on fat lights (3+18650), long lights, and extra stubby lights.
BUT…
The switch must be large, recessed, and easy located. Rubber covers preferred. These things are unlikely on a truly tiny 14500. The SC52 was a favorite zebralight of mine, but the diameter was pushing it for an AA.
The other way ‘round: Tail switches have their home in lights that you would hold in ’the tactical way’.
Acebeams L35 (and probably many other lights) is a nice example of how to do it right: Turbo on tailswitch, normal operation on side switch. Locating the switch is no problem if there’s a clip. I’m using the D4V2 and Wuben E05-I blindly, just like a SC5c.
I think more detail is required. a well-done side switch (zebralight SC6x series) is easily found. The whole light basically guides you to it. And I’ve never had an accidental activation. At the same time, a protruding side switch is a disaster in-pocket. And then there’s my Thrunite T10T V2, which I can hardly find the switch on despite indexing it with the clip.
Seems like I missed the fun, I’m for titanium + copper - good tail and glass drop protection and normal heat dissipation, but between the titanium tailcap and the copper part with the driver, I would put a standard aluminum case
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I can say from experience that Titanium is tough to machine, 15% heavier than aluminum. I also have an aluminum bicycle and its plenty light enough for me. Copper is also difficult to machine and tarnishes quickly.
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