Rust-colored film on top of cell?

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Robin Dobbie
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Rust-colored film on top of cell?

I bought 25 Vapcell H10s from Liion Wholesale and they were delivered today. The cells were all in little plastic bags, then placed in 4-cell AA totes. I haven’t done any testing other than voltage.

I don’t know what to expect with regards to voltages, but for me, these are fine.

1 3.846
2 3.846
3 3.846
4 3.845 – brown streaking on top
5 3.848
6 3.840
7 3.845
8 3.850
9 3.852
10 3.846
11 3.841
12 3.848
13 3.845
14 3.849

15
16 the camera cut off because it doesn’t start a new file after 4GB, so I don’t have measurements for 15, 16, 17.
17

18 3.844
19 3.848
20 3.847
21 3.854
22 3.791
23 3.852
24 3.841
25 3.849

Many of the cells had varying amounts of discoloration on the ends, but most gave a solid reading. Cell 4 was giving me trouble getting a solid reading. It had this rust spot on the top that glistened. I wiped it with a piece of tissue and some of the color came off, some did not. Once wiped, the voltage reading was solid.

I s’pose I should have written the voltages down and kept track of the cells rather than just using a camera. How do y’all “check-in” cells?

Bort
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Does it rub off with a bit of cleaner or does it have to be scraped of.
It does not look like typical rust, its not bubbles, it looks smeared on. But you can;t be sure from a photo.
If it comes off after scraping and leaves a rough surface its more likely to be rust. If you can wipe it off its likely dirt.

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gravelmonkey
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Weird how the voltages vary so much…?

Henk4U2
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gravelmonkey wrote:
Weird how the voltages vary so much…?

Maybe I’m understanding you the wrong way, but a spread of 0.4% looks fine excellent to me.
There is only one battery that is doing “worse”.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

zoulas
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Looks acceptable to me, especially if it wiped off.

TIFisher
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Soldering flux or some kind of varnish??

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Was the glistening from a wet or greasy surface?

From the photo it looks like the residue that gets all over the inside of a vape stick.

Also the surface texture of the metal button looks like it has been painted or coated. If it were mine i would use a small round file, or fine sandpaper wrapped around a toothpick, to sand a line across the button until reaching the base metal, the feathered edges would expose any layers.

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Cell cans are made of nickel coated steel, where the nickel coating provides corrosion protection; so better avoid damaging the coating. I'd use some commercial metal cleaner first, they work wonders with copper, brass and such.

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gravelmonkey
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Henk4U2 wrote:
gravelmonkey wrote:
Weird how the voltages vary so much…?

Maybe I’m understanding you the wrong way, but a spread of 0.4% looks fine excellent to me.
There is only one battery that is doing “worse”.

Perhaps it’s the three significant places, I suppose you’re correct Thumbs Up

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Barkuti wrote:

Cell cans are made of nickel coated steel, where the nickel coating provides corrosion protection; so better avoid damaging the coating. I’d use some commercial metal cleaner first, they work wonders with copper, brass and such.


Frankly i’d start with rubbing alcohol or dish soap.

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Robin Dobbie
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This is after wiping it last night and rubbing it vigorously with an eraser, which is even more work I’d expect to do on a new cell that we are pretty sure is genuine.

kennybobby
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The cans might be nickel steel, but what about the buttons? they could be anything, if it were mine i would cut into it with a file to see what it is. Is it attracted by a magnet?

It may not matter at all, but that’s just me.

Now i used to think that i was cool,
drivin' around on fossil fuel,
until i saw what i was doin',
was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

Robin Dobbie
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Magnetic.

I’m going to re-measure them all, today, in a way I can keep track of them individually, then let them sit a week. I think Liion has a 14-day inspection policy

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A couple weeks ago we got three flats and eight buttons...one of the flats had this residue and I think two of the buttons had a smidge.  I dabbed a paper towel on my tongue and the cells wiped clean easily.  Have eight more flats arriving tomorrow or Saturday.  I didn't really try to investigate but I assume it's just some oxidized lube of some sort.  Wasn't hard or sticky or anything.  I've only seen 18650s from the majors ever poof a little vent when shorted but none of those left a residue that I recall...that was what first crossed my mind when I saw the discoloration.  They all seem well so far but none have seen much cycling yet of course.

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Cells arrived, all clean with no residue.  No cycles yet but after a charge up they seem to be holding steady as expected.  Recent tales about various Vapcell cells have me feeling a little wary but thus far all of the ones I've bought have been excellent.  Also picked up one of the rewrapped "semi button top" 50-E2 cells since they were out of stock of the regular plain factory ones.  I was alarmed for a second because their Liion cell wrap says that it's made in China but I'm assuming that they must have someone apply the button and wrap them overseas before shipping here...that the actual cell is Samsung Korea like the plain ones, and like their ad copy states.  They've always been a legit supplier so I'm sure that must be the case. 

Robin Dobbie
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I’ve retested the cells, and a week+several hours later, they have not lost any voltage.

These are tested in a different order than the first list, because I didn’t keep track of their order. So I don’t know if they should be compared.

Also, some of my voltages are higher for some reason. I’m assuming temperature because it feels hotter here this week. Don’t know if its just humidity. I didn’t record last weeks temp, but it’s 71 right now. For the most part they weren’t solid at the higher reading, but I usually go with the higher reading if its flashing between two values. There were some that flashed a higher value initially when the probes made contact, then settled for the lower value. In those cases, I wrote down the lower reading. I don’t have a Fluke, but I think I want one. What I have is a Klein CL390 which I fvcking hate because it pesters me with LOUD BEEPS every 4 minutes warning me it’s going to turn off in 60 seconds with moar ANGRY BEEPS if I don’t touch more than just its probes in a meaningful manner. I don’t know if Flukes do that.

First voltage is what I measured last week, and the second is the new reading.

Also, the first cell is the rusty cell. Because I like to live dangerously, and nobody was like, OMG CORE AND TEEN IT! …and just to help force any issue, that’s the one I used to test lights. So, that’s why it’s lower than the first reading in the OP. At no point did I detect more corrosion or fluid and its contacts stayed “clean” the whole time.

01 3.757 – 3.759 – “Rusty” cell.
02 3.790 – 3.790
03 3.850 – 3.851
04 3.847 – 3.848
05 3.851 – 3.852
06 3.849 – 3.850
07 3.845 – 3.845
08 3.840 – 3.840
09 3.846 – 3.846
10 3.840 – 3.840
11 3.848 – 3.848
12 3.845 – 3.845
13 3.838 – 3.838
14 3.848 – 3.848
15 3.851 – 3.851
16 3.847 – 3.847
17 3.843 – 3.843
18 3.846 – 3.846
19 3.852 – 3.853
20 3.847 – 3.847
21 3.847 – 3.848
22 3.844 – 3.845
23 3.844 – 3.845
24 3.845 – 3.846
25 3.831 – 3.831 New cell from Neals

Robin Dobbie
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But also, if this Klein measured and displayed voltage the way I wished it did, it would be able to round to the nearest 100th of a volt, and this would look a bit cleaner. When I range up to 99.99V from 9.999V, it doesn’t round up, so don’t feel right using that. But it doesn’t even show more than 4.200V in that mode. Display shows OL if over 4.200V. Tired

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You can turn off the auto-off feature.  I don't think you can disable just the buzzer so if you want the feature on you have to live with the alerts.  Check your manual but it's probably just holding the ncv button down while you turn the unit on, if it's like other Kleins.  The accuracy of this meter and most of what Klein makes isn't nearly enough for you to concern yourself with millivolts, by the way, especially for cells.  Would have to look yours up but it's likely 1% +/- in the lower ranges, plus the digit count...which means that you can be off either direction by .05 or so.  Meters usually gets less accurate in higher ranges but that's fine, and no concern at all for electrician/automotive work which these are made for.  If you have the choice of manual range selection vs. auto ranging, choose the manual and the accuracy may increase a little bit - not sure about yours but that's common across many meters.  The good news is none of this matters for flashlights really, and the electronics in our drivers are simple enough that we don't need high quality/extreme accuracy like is needed in some applications.  For cells, tenths is perfectly fine.

Robin Dobbie
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That’s cool, didn’t know that. I somehow skipped past that in my previous forays into the manual. Still beeps 5 times at 4 minutes and 5 more times at 5 minutes, in addition to a 5 beep start up. I have more than vague feelings of ill-will towards the designer of this meter.

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It may be stored for a long time and caused by moisture

It is recommended to use WD-40 to remove rust , wipe it with a cleaning cloth or fine sandpaper

Robin Dobbie
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WD-40 on a cell? Just right in the top, there? I forgot about that tip. Sounds intriguing but I’ll probably refrain as the cell seems to be doing OK. I’m also imagining the odor from a heated cell dissipating that trademarked aroma of stubborn yard equipment like a pocket-sized Glade air freshener on amphetamines.

But some people apparently like it.

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Robin Dobbie wrote:
WD-40 on a cell? Just right in the top, there? I forgot about that tip. Sounds intriguing but I’ll probably refrain as the cell seems to be doing OK. I’m also imagining the odor from a heated cell dissipating that trademarked aroma of stubborn yard equipment like a pocket-sized Glade air freshener on amphetamines.

But some people apparently like it.

!https://i.ibb.co/X53vY6K/a-Wmq-RRn-700b.jpg!

https://www.google.com/search?q=WD40&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUK...

google it

This is a good rust remover

It is better not to use sharp tools to remove rust, because there is a protective layer. If the nickel plated protective layer is damaged, it is easier to rust

Dry environment is not easy to rust