Astrolux FT03 SST40 2400lm NarsilM v1.3 USB-C

That would not matter….I just use 21700 batteries…samsung 40T…because they are were more available and were not re-wraps. My point is the blinks followed by dimming is a low voltage indicator.

I’m aware it wouldn’t matter, but it would have saved you writing a short essay on a 21700 :stuck_out_tongue:

The circuit on the light does the 3 blinks and dims on the 4th blink when voltage is low…I confirmed that. If the driver is indicating a low battery when a known good battery of sufficient discharge rate is used, the driver for detecting low voltage may be faulty. I use the samsung 21700 with orings as spacers at the top and bottom because I have about 100 of them, and the 30T and 40T are batteries I trust. I suppose it is possible both of your batteries are bad, but not likely. The only thing I can state for a fact is 3 blinks and dimming on the 4th blink is the low voltage indicator for that light model…I have 5 of them. That was actually the light that got me hooked on flashlight collecting…or hoarding. For whatever reason, either the battery is not fully charged, or the PCB is indicating that it is needing charged.

Good one by the way Funtastic, but how do you know how Bart1080 is charging that battery?

Yes, but that’s why I asked to check the voltage with a DMM

That is where my confusion happened….Your first 2 posts, I failed to notice you were not Bart1080. Now having slept, I see where you did tell him to check the voltage with a DMM. You see, I thought you were Bart1080 saying you had checked the battery and used an external charger. Having re-read it all, you were saying you had told him to check the battery voltage, which you had. I was just trying to explain that both batteries may be fine, but not getting a full charge or being overcharged to cause a battery failure. My bad for taking till your 3rd response to catch the fact that you were not Bart1080.

Yes correct, or at least from my experience. 3 blinks then step down. Maybe checking cell voltage with M/Meter could at least rule out whether it’s a cell/chargering problem or not. I like my FT03 xhp.50, seems a well made reliable light. Lots of light and not that much throw with the xhp50.2 but useful.

Thanks all for your responses and advice.

Answers to your questions:
I’ve tested the battery and its a shade over 4v. I’ve only got my old analog “Micronta” multimeter ATM as the digital one is broke.
I don’t have an external charger and are using the USB-c built in charger
The FT03 is running NarsilM 1.3
I’ve checked the (driver board??) ring and its firm, the springs look ok, all connections are clean.
The Keepower battery is a 26650 5500mha protected cell

Further Testing
So, I’d left it on the USB-c charge all weekend, unplugging it once and plugging it back in with the USB-c charger from the powerpoint….not the PC.
Even though the volt test indicates its a shade over 4V, the charge indicator is always orange/green indicating its not fully charged. The indicator with the first few charges didnt do this in the beginning ie: it turned green when supposibly fully charged.

So the interesting thing this morning sitting at my desk is:
Turned the light on, doubled clicked to turbo to the wall in front of me and it went to turbo.
After 3 seconds it done its usual 3 blinks and dropped down in brightness. Repeated the same steps a few times and no change in behaviour.
What I’d noticed turning to turbo, the light output was slightly wavering possibly indicating a crappy connection before blinking 3 times and dropping slightly in brightness
THEN BAM
Turning to turbo, It was truly at its full turbo brightness…blindingly bright. After 20 seconds, no blinking. Repeated and it clicked into full turbo, no blinking.
Retested with the Chinese mustard color battery, and it to is working at full turbo mode which hasn’t been charged for weeks, voltage is ~4volts.
The batteries can be ruled out as an issue

Aside from when I tested in the first week on receiving this torch, Havn’t had this for weeks, so the turbo output was never really the full turbo output.

Questions
Any clues as to why all of a sudden full turbo is now working as its likely to fail again until the issue is rectified?….thinking either a faulty driver board, poor connection or temp setting that a couple of you have mentioned?
How do I check the temp settings?

Also Looks like I should buy a reasonable charger…something that can cater for multiple battery types as this is my first torch outside the AAA, AA, C arena.

Ahhhhhhh Protected.

He said it was not protected batteries, and that light will not exceed the amp draw of protected battery circuit anyway.

@Bart1080 The tailcap completes the circuit to ground on the light through the exposed aluminum it screws onto. That is why the very edge is not anodized. Try taking some scotchbrite or very fine sandpaper and cleaning that. It is also best to unscrew the tailcap if not using the light for a while to reduce parasitic drain on the battery. It is sounding more like you have a weak ground connection. The exposed aluminum tube needs to be clean at both the head and the tailcap, but especially the tail. The battery tube could also be upside down….the side of the tube that has some unanodized threads needs to be on the head side. The light will function with it upside down, just not properly. The unanodized threads on the positive side screws onto unanodized threads in the head. That is why the positive head side is less critical. The tailcap only connects on the edge, just so you can easily disconnect the ground with a very slight loosening of the tailcap to prevent accidental turning the light on in a bag or suitcase. That does require that edge and the brass it contacts in the tailcap be tight and clean.

Thanks, Sarge.
I’d edited my post to include the test of the unprotected cell after zoulas responded.

I can confirm the tube is in the correct way…and always has been. Good to know though as I didn’t realise the anodise will affect the connection.
I’II take a closer look at the connections and clean as suggested. Will see how it all goes from there.

Out of interest, is there an advantage of protected vs unprotected cells for torch applications?

Protected cells are mainly needed in multi-cell lights, especially in parallel. In a parallel configuration with all batteries sharing a common + and - post, an internal short in 1 battery can cause an extreme amperage draw on the other batteries even with the switch off. It is possible for them to even catch fire, and a flashlights overcurrent protection can’t provide that protection, because they are connected together before any switch or protection. In almost all single cell lights, the flashlights circuitry will provide some protection. If you watch videos on lithium ion batteries being shorted by connecting a wire from the + to the -, they can be a bit dangerous. I will add that an internal short like that is somewhat rare, and usually lithium ion issues are caused by using ICR batteries or batteries of too low continuous amp ratings for the device. Protected cells are usually just a waste of money for a single cell flashlight, and the protection circuits will open between 10-15 amps so can’t be used for some higher lumen lights. The main reason for them is you are basically turning them all into a bigger battery in parallel. As far as the end cap anodise, that would be an insulator on that light. The negative battery contacts the spring, which is soldered to the brass contact then travels through the aluminum tube to the head. If you unscrew the tailcap even a little, it will increase the resistence in the ground. Even an eigth of a turn will totally disconnect the ground and any dirt or corrosion on the unanodized part of the tube will add resistence which can lower the current to the driver. It would also add resistance to the USB-C charging circuit. By the way ICR and IMR, and INR is describing the chemistry of the batteries, and ICR uses cobalt and can be very explosive…so use IMR or INR, which are safer. I use my batteries for vaping too, and no way I would have an ICR battery near my face knowingly.

I want to clarify that you do not want to remove aluminum when cleaning with sandpaper…very fine and not agressive. A pencil eraser can often work well also.

Check the retaining ring of the driver, is it tight?

shouldnt be issues running protected since the emitter dont draw much amps even on turbo.

Artiet59 covered that in post 9 of the thread. I think someone has covered about every possibility. The FT03 is a fairly simple light. It is extremely easy to miss seeing an already covered issue in our desire to help. Beyond what one of the members has covered…I know I have nothing else, and really think every possible issue has been posted. It still could be a bad driver, but I will say this. There is hardly any light I ever bought that gave as much bang for the buck as the Astrolux FT03 SST40-W, so it would be worth buying a second one to exchange parts to identify the issue. That might be the only sure way to narrow it down and 1 of those is not enough in my book. Feel the same about the lumintop tool aa 2.0. That astrolux was my first real thrower, and still the most meters of throw per dollar spent. I have the FT03s also, but it had a known focus issue and has never been worth the extra 100 dollars it cost. I have one of them with the 50.2 emmiter as well, but none in the line was worth having more than 1 of. I have 5 with the SST40-W emmiter. I am paticularly fond of LED throwers in general. I do not really chase the extreme lumen and auxillary colored LED lights as much. I have some, but usually only 1 of each. I also have a bunch of Sofirn C8G, and would have a bunch of the lumintop GT micro with the modified osram emmiters if I could find them in aluminum. I have 1 and 2 in brass. MF04, TN42, TN42 V2, Fireflies T9R, I have 1 each of and will have the wildfire soon. I have 2 of the Astrolux EA02, and many other throwers. I have nearly all except the insanely priced Olight’s as well. There are very few Sofirn brand lights not in my stash either. Sofirn is just a great quality for the money brand. Olight has extreme quality, but at a price. I only buy them on their flash sale bundles usually. If it is over 250 bucks for 1 flashlight, I do not own it.

Bart1080….did any of the suggestions lead to the problem? Is it fixed?

Hi all, Well, I ended up taking it all apart as it played up again. Followed the advice including checking the solder joints, tightened the rings, very lightly sanded the threaded end……and all in the nick of time I might add.
Had a storm go through taking the power, phones, internet, EFTPOS, petrol stations (no power, no Eftpos) and turned the area into a “cash” only society for 4 days :slight_smile: Have only just got power back on late this morning.

The torch worked flawlessly over the 4 days with both batteries and now very happy with it. Great opportunity to run it through its capabilities and get used to the standard functions - ramping, moonlight, turbo, get indicator light.
I’II definitely have to get another….for $45 Aussie really good value for money

Thanks all for your suggestions on troubleshooting the issue….I think it might need to be a standard process to “go over” any new LED light I get

Good…thanks for responding…nice to hear a success story. That aluminum edge under the endcap is both a feature and a possible issue. It allows even the slightest loosening to lock it out, but being even slightly loose or dirty locks it out.