Andruil would work if i can flash it to default to a set brightness and have a simple ui with the more complex options hidden so to speak. I did however forget to add one more requirement needs to fit the loop on my pants or have a good quick access holster.
flashing is a lot of trouble
anduril does have memory, of course
and you can set ceiling and floor to the same value, so that is the only level available
you can also set the stepped mode and the ramping mode ceiling and floor independently
so you could have the ‘stepped mode’ set to one level
then when you switched to ramping you could set ceiling and floor apart so it would actually ramp
anything beats #$#$ing flashing lights
i won;t do it
and i flash and program micros for a living!
Anduril 2 has two modes, Simple and Advanced.
Simple is on/off, ramp up/down and battery check.
Advanced has all the strobe/blinky/specialty modes.
Starting to think I might should get two lights. I normally carry my S1R Baton as well an my tn12. Maybe get a lumintop fwaa as the high cri with tailstanding and go for brighter and high efficiency with the main light.
FW3A is great. You won’t be disappointed
Light has just released the Warrior-mini-2, it meets all your requirements.
Yup, I agree get a S2 or S2+. The selection of emitters, driver’s, and even tint options should be able to make you happy.
Another plus is the simple UI. You can even choose how many modes you want your UI to have.
Also it appears you put your lights through some abuse. The bang for the buck prices Convoy has will make your wallet smile.
Acebeam TK18 Nichia meets some of your requirements. I can’t tell about been durable.
The olights I have all have very poor color rendering does the warrior mini 2 have any different leds cant seem to find any specs on cri. Far as the ace beam and convoy how much throw can you get out of the tir optics my only experience with them is my emisar d4 CuTi with its stock optic and that is not quite enough throw for me. Also with the ace beam it seems to only use button tops I have way more 18650s than I can count and none are button top so kind of annoying for me.
Looks like you got your money’s worth.
Had to take a file to it to get the burr off after dropping it on concrete a few times 
Except for the neutral white and high cri :zipper_mouth_face:
Also, the type of beam is not necessarily the same as the TN, because of the reflector vs TIR :zipper_mouth_face:
Apart from this, it seems to be a good option, specially now that the clip can/seems to be reversible 
Check the MHVAST TG20:
Or the Jetbeam 2MS:
http://www.jetbeamlight.com/products_show322.html
Not a specific light reccomendation, but plenty of folks here will help troubleshoot that TN12 issue - if you could get it working again, it would be a good back-up.
If it could be fixed I would love to can’t figure out how to take apart the head if I give the light a hard knock it flickers and runs on dim so might be a broken solder joint. Still will probably upgrade it. I was thinking of doing so before it died.
Perhaps you Try a Convoy M2 side clip or lanyard & tail switch. 
pm Mr .Simon @convoy store and he will hook you up. Reasonably priced no aundriel.
Then why are there so many disappointed FW3A-series owners?
Issues with the switch, issues with lumintop changing things between runs, some models feature a driver with no reverse polarity protection. …
I’m almost sure acebeam can take flat tops because it has springs on both sides. Throw isn’t that great(9kcd advertised).
Sounds like the Acebeam TK18 with Nichia 90+ CRI is pretty close to everything you asked for except it’s an 18650. I recently purchased the Cu T18 and like a LOT about it… Be aware, though, that is an e-switch with no momentary, and a slow double click for turbo (press and hold from off for moonlight). Nice, WIDE hotspot for decent throw on Turbo, while being wide enough for walking a path in the dark without being a flood.
I “think” the aluminum version allows for changing Carclo optics (like the FW3A uses) for playing with the beam pattern. I can’t get the bezel off of my Cu version to change the optic but I’m happy with the beam profile.
I think they are newly discontinued so there might not be many available.
Some notes…
1. The light comes setup in ECO mode, so for the “advanced” flashlight user be sure to change the setting to “Power.”
2. “Power” mode is only available with 10A continuous drain 18650’s. I’m currently using an LG “brown” 3000mah 18650 that allows full “Power” mode functionality. A Nitecore 18650 w/ Micro usb port fit, but since it wasn’t rated at 10A continuous I could only use the “Eco” mode for full functionality with it.
Tried cleaning contacts and making sure the switch retaining ring is tight? I had a Fenix LD20 act a similar way- tightened the brass ring on the inside of the tailcap and it’s been great ever since.
I bypassed the rear tail cap with a wire lead to check the switch still acted the same. Looking at building a convoy s2 I can’t find a single led that is both high cri and bright as I want so looks like I might have to go with the tir optics to get high cri that bright regardless of the host. Does anyone have any experience with the beam difference between the tk18 and the stock optic on a emisar d4?